Dell U2410 Monitor - Help please

jeniveeev

jeniveeev

Messages
1,407
Name
Mac
Edit My Images
No
Hi everyone,

I bought a Dell U2410 screen recently. I have it calibrated with Spyder 3 Pro and have reduced the brightness and contrast to suit as it was super bright (to the point of giving me a headache).

I have done test prints with Loxleys and I cant get an accurate screen to print match. The prints are sharper to start with (good complaint), the detail and colours are far bolder in print. Its almost as if my screen is soft (although I know its not, but Im trying to think how best to describe the difference I am experiencing). I have set the monitor to SRGB and havent touched any sharpness controls etc as I dont know what Im doing.

Could anyone help me out l before I head over to Dell and find out a little more about this problem. Its driving me crazy as Ive already wasted print costs from a large order I placed prior to test printing (I know - silly me!). I have loads of orders to place this week so Im trying to get to the bottom of the problem as quickly as poss. Many thanks in advance. Jen
 
What resoution do you have it set to?
 
That should be sharp enough, have you another PC to try it on just to rule out the graphics card?
 
How are you connecting the computer to the monitor?
 
are you using the DVI-D cable and connected to the DVI ports?

Not sure what you mean by 'show you up' :thinking:

I just got a new monitor the other day and had problems connecting because I wasn't using the correct cable - i.e. the one that came with the monitor! :bang:
 
Last edited:
The DVi is the white one :p
 
Yeah its plugged in to the only port it can fit into.

Sorry - I meant it in good humour, "something simple that I had missed making me look like a daftie :)"
 
Sorry for the blur I had to take at s/s 1/10 lying down.

5650758986_58db500f36_z.jpg
 
Do you not have a white DVi cable?
 
In fact better still, is that a hdmi slot in between the blue and white ports?
 
Jim - I have gone through the accessories that came with the monitor and have found a white one. Should I change it? Although the instructions do say I can use ONLY the VGA blue or DVI white. Yes there is also another spare cable for a port that could be the slot you are talking about
 
Last edited:
white is best
 
Swap the blue one for the white one. The blue gives low defenition the white high.

Also if you have a Spyder then you must set the brightness and contrast to the way they tell you to set it or your wasting your time calibrating it.

I use the same device on mine and the latest software ( free download ) for the Spyder includes settings to calibrate the brightness and contrast. Whatever it sets it to you have to live with or the calibration will be miles off to your prints.
 
sorry had to go out - missed all this - do you have it fixed now with the DVI cable?
 
Deleted
 
Last edited:
Have you checked to make sure that the embedded profile in the files you are uploading are as specified by Loxleys? Have you tried using another supplier for sample prints? In what way do the prints not match the screen?
 
Ask Loxley's if they would provide you with their lab's ICC profile.

Then in Photoshop select the ICC profile they are using (Edit > Assign Profile > Select the profile they provide you from the drop down menu).
 
salmoally said:
Ask Loxley's if they would provide you with their lab's ICC profile.

Then in Photoshop select the ICC profile they are using (Edit > Assign Profile > Select the profile they provide you from the drop down menu).
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan - I would give Loxleys a call - they are very helpful.
 
Thanks guys - I have Loxley's profile in my proof set up but what I didnt do was assign to profile! Can I also ask, in proof set up do you leave Loxleys (or whatever lab you use) ticked or do you return to custom sRGB blah blah?

Also, I spoke to Loxleys and they were really helpful :)
 
Hi Jen, I got your message but I decided to post here just in-case someone else would find the discussion of any help.

Monitor Calibration can be one step process or painful tick all the boxes procedure I have found.

Before you even start doing anything to your PC/Monitor.

Is there any lightsource hitting your monitor? Lamps, Ceiling Lights, light from window? Find a nice dark spot to set up your monitor. Outside light makes a huge difference to how your eyes perceive colour. If you need a lamp to help work get a black bulb which produces pure white light and stick it behind the monitor. Best is to just work in total darkness with monitor as only light source but that may be not possible at home.

You have connected your Monitor using the dvi connections on both your pc and monitor.

Let your monitor warm up first for a good while, I would say at least 1hour minimum.

Let your eyes adjust to your workspace ie dont come into the workspace from a sunny day and start calibrating.

Now onto your hardware

1. Calibrated brightness contrast of screen, make sure you did this before anything else.

2. Calibrate using spyder. Spyder will also generate the icc profile - for your monitor. Restart PC for all setting to take affect.

3. Make sure photoshop is set to Adobe 1998 colour space (edit>colour settings>working space RGB>click dropdown menu>select adobe 1998

4. Always use this colour space, switching colour spaces makes things even more of an headache.

5. Open your photo and apply the Loxley icc profile. You should see a colour change. This is what (hopefully) the final print should look like.

6. Save as jpg/tiff but MAKE SURE "imbed icc profile" is selected.


In summary:

We have created a light controlled workspace.

We have a calibrated monitor and photoshop set to the best colour workspace. Photoshop is using your ICC profile created by your spyder to calculate the colours and produce them accurately on your screen.

We can now assign any printer icc profile through "Assign profile" and adjust the image accordingly.

When working with a specific lab, you will eventually get a feel for how prints come out anyway since there is only so much you can control. Adjust accordingly (ie if they come back a touch too light, try slightly darkening to suit).

If your wondering how I know all this, I work in a consumer based photo-imaging shop where exact colour calibration isn't needed/expected (quality of the photos customer provide are FAAAAAAR from any good) but I just learnt it anyways since we do get the odd "enthusiast" like myself in.
 
Last edited:
I almost forgot something else important. I dont know if Loxley's do this but make sure you ask them to not make any colour adjustments on your files. I'm sure they don't but I notice some labs require you to specify either way.

Our shop almost ALWAYS tampers with the colours because customers complain hard when their originally washed out, overexposed,blurred photos come back to them - washed out, overexposed, blurred :(... I end up boosting saturation and sharpen to the max and they love it. Obviously its different at a pro lab :D
 
Hi Sal - Thanks for your reply, it was good of you to type all this up and of course share your information with others. I have commented alongside your bulletpoints:


salmoally said:
Hi Jen, I got your message but I decided to post here just in-case someone else would find the discussion of any help.

Monitor Calibration can be one step process or painful tick all the boxes procedure I have found.

Before you even start doing anything to your PC/Monitor.

Is there any lightsource hitting your monitor? Lamps, Ceiling Lights, light from window? Find a nice dark spot to set up your monitor. Outside light makes a huge difference to how your eyes perceive colour. If you need a lamp to help work get a black bulb which produces pure white light and stick it behind the monitor. Best is to just work in total darkness with monitor as only light source but that may be not possible at home.

Although I work in a north facing room in a corner where there is the least amount of light I still shut the curtains to keep it darkish.

You have connected your Monitor using the dvi connections on both your pc and monitor. Done

Let your monitor warm up first for a good while, I would say at least 1hour minimum.
I usually wait half hour as recommended by Spyder but to be honest its usually over an hour once the kids are packed off to school before i start work

Let your eyes adjust to your workspace ie dont come into the workspace from a sunny day and start calibrating. Check

Now onto your hardware

1. Calibrated brightness contrast of screen, make sure you did this before anything else. Have done

2. Calibrate using spyder. Spyder will also generate the icc profile - for your monitor. Restart PC for all setting to take affect. Check. To confirm my settings Gamma 2.2, White point - 6500 Brightness - 103

3. Make sure photoshop is set to Adobe 1998 colour space (edit>colour settings>working space RGB>click dropdown menu>select adobe 1998

I have this set to SRGB IEC61966

4. Always use this colour space, switching colour spaces makes things even more of an headache. I dont change colour space at all

5. Open your photo and apply the Loxley icc profile. You should see a colour change. This is what (hopefully) the final print should look like.

Yes and it turns a tad lighter/brighter

6. Save as jpg/tiff but MAKE SURE "imbed icc profile" is selected. check


In summary:

We have created a light controlled workspace.

We have a calibrated monitor and photoshop set to the best colour workspace. Photoshop is using your ICC profile created by your spyder to calculate the colours and produce them accurately on your screen. OK

We can now assign any printer icc profile through "Assign profile" and adjust the image accordingly. - This is where I have the problem. When I assign the Loxley option everything turns darker. If I click do not colour correct will it be printed as I see it on my screen whilst working in Loxley proof set up.?

When working with a specific lab, you will eventually get a feel for how prints come out anyway since there is only so much you can control. Adjust accordingly (ie if they come back a touch too light, try slightly darkening to suit). - Im realising this now but sometimes the shadows and corners are really dark. My lipstick reds are coming back deep red!

If your wondering how I know all this, I work in a consumer based photo-imaging shop where exact colour calibration isn't needed/expected (quality of the photos customer provide are FAAAAAAR from any good) but I just learnt it anyways since we do get the odd "enthusiast" like myself in.
Click to expand...

Glad there is someone here who works in the industry and happy to help. Thanks :)
 
jeniveeev said:
Glad there is someone here who works in the industry and happy to help. Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Hey no problems! As I said I'm not professionally trained in this specific area so I'm sure you could find some more indepth info online when you have some time.

I think we work differently hence why the "assign profile" bit is confusing you. Skip "assign profile" for now and go with "convert to profile". Then select the loxley profile and you should see no changes on screen.

I originally recommended "assign profile" because I found convert to be a bit strange in that you didnt see any onscreen changes.

To put simply:

Assign Profile = changes appearance onscreen (then you have to adjust image to your liking)
Convert Profile = changes imbedded image data but keep appearance onscreen the same (so no need to adjust, what you see is what (theoretically) should print)

If you still have problems (and I read your comments on my little tutorial) theres one quick and dirty way to temporarily solve this problem if you are on a tight deadline. I wouldn't recommend always doing this though:

Do the sypder calibration. Then go into the monitor options on the monitor itself (**** be a menu button on there somewhere), go into the colour settings. Take a print you got back and just play with the setting till you got something that looks like the print on your screen. This will give you an idea of how your prints will come out and just manually adjust each print through photoshop (I know...)

As i said its not pretty and I wouldnt usually advise this but as a last resort its kinda ok:exit:
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top