Digital ICE4 Advanced - A question

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pioneer31

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I'm currently scanning 35mm slides with a Nikon CoolScan V.

Here's a question, does anyone have ICE switched on for every scan ?

Although it does a stellar job at removing the rubbish from 35mm slide scans, I am finding

a) it produces a slightly less sharp scan
b) sometimes produces strange effects like blurring or haze around faces for example but only noticeable when the picture is blown up very large (mind you so are the black flecks and defects)

Has anyone else has strange effects with Digital ICE?

I've decided to do 'straight' scans for the time being, only employing ICE when the scan has too much noticeable rubbish on it.
 
yes and yes :D But don't hold it too close and use short sharp bursts.

Going back to your original question,I scanned a load of old slides a couple of years ago and found the ICE setting very useful.Can't remember if I had it on for every image though,but I do remember being quite impressed with the results at the time.
 
Never had a problem using it on my Coolscan V but i do use the lightest setting and clone/heal anything out that may be left in PS.
 
I never really rated digital ice, never worked how I hoped it would, there was always a softening of the image, it also blurred artefacts to a point where it didn't match the surrounding area.
On top of that, it took yonks to complete the scan, its ok for scanning you're mams 11tybillion 35mm pas slides from the 60's, but, well, I just look too close at my own.:shrug:
 
Forgive my ignorance of compressed air cans (or air dusters) but are there different types? I have seen some which are stated as 'flammable' and others which are 'non flammable' and CFC safe etc. I've also heard people mention 'propellent free' air dusters?!?

Is there any such thing as a 'clean' air duster?

I have obtained a rocket blower and borrowed a can of 'Impega' air duster from work. The air duster is more effective at removing those tiny black specs
 
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