DIY Developing HP5 400 and XP2 400 same process?

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KayJay

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I have a question. I'm getting ready to develop my first rolls of film. I've been shooting with HP5 400 and also XP2 400, both Ilford films. I was thinking of getting a starter kit, something like this. Apparently because HP5 is a true black and white film would I still be able to use a starter kit like that or would I need to send it off to get developed? I'd like to be able to develop both those films at home if I can.

And also, when I've got my chemicals (developer etc) can I reuse them if I pour into containers instead of down the sink?
 
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HP5 and XP2 are a different process, Tesco will develope your XP2 for 99p and the kit in the link would work but best to wait for more posts from the B/W experts.
 
The starter kit is fine for the HP5, but the XP2 is C41 process and uses different chemicals, and a slightly more involved/regulated processing regime. On the upside, the kit I linked to, will process at least 12 films, either XP2 or standard C41 colour. You'd still need the other kit as well - the c41 kit is just chemicals!

The C41 is all re-useable chemicals, you just adjust the processing times to account for chemical depletion as you process additional films. The B&W kit you linked to would again be all re-useable. The stop and fix are intended to be used until they are no longer effective (stop has a colour change dye in it when it's depleted, and you just do a clip test on the fix!) and I believe the Kodak dev is the same as Ilfords ID-11, which can either be used (and re-used) as a stock solution, or can be used in 1+1 or 1+3 dilutions, where it's intended as a one-shot process. Personally, I prefer to use the dev. as one-shot, as it means you can keep consistent times, rather than faffing about keeping count of the number of films souped, and adjusting process time accordingly.

(it IS POSSIBLE to develop the XP2 in "normal" B&W chemicals, but I've tried it a couple of times, and never been happy with the result - I'm sure someone here will have done it successfulyl, but I've pretty much chosen to use normal B&W film now, and keep the couple of chromagenic rolls i've got for if I'm ever away from home, and need to shoot film and get processing done in the day!)
 
That kit is specifically aimed at true silver halide Black & White films such as your HP5 and the Tri X included in that kit.

The Ilford XP2 film is a C41 process (normally colour) Black and White film and relies on dye layers to make the image and whilst you could use the containers and tank included in the kit, you really would need to buy C41 chemicals.

Now the rub, C41 chemicals are typically used at between 38 and 40 degrees Celsius, and the temperature is reasonably critical especially for the development part of the process, where normal temperatures for standard Black and White processing is about 20 degrees Celsius.

It is usually easier to chuck the Xp2 in the chemist or other colour processing lab, but if the images are not too important to you, you could try to process them in your normal Black & White chemicals and see what happens, I have done this in the past with XP1 and whilst the negs look very milky after the processing, they printed up fine.
 
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I've just had another look at that kit and I believe you would find it very difficult to get good repeatable results without some additional purchases. Either a proper changing bag or fully light tight room to enable you to get the film from the cassette and onto the spiral of the film tank. Don't believe you can do it under the bedclothes, think about how much light is actually let onto the film for an exposure of 1/500th sec @ f11 and ISO400 much less is needed to fog it.

Then you will need some storage containers to store your stock chemicals, these are better if opaque but milk cartons will do if properly marked and no children are around.

Then you will need some graduates to accurately measure the ratios of stock to working strength, do not be tempted to use your wife's kitchen stuff, not just because of the health hazard.

Then you need some means of hanging the film up to dry, when I was a poor student, I used large paperclips bent around a shower curtain rail with a couple of hooks to fit through the sprocket holes in 35mm film, for the lower end I did the same but bent the paperclips around a stainless M19 nut to give it some weight.

I would also buy some form of wetting agent for after the wash such as photoflo or the like.

Can't think of anything else of the top of my head whilst on this train, but if I do I will add to it here.
 
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Hi Edward, I was thinking about this. I've sourced some cheap chemical certified 500ml storage containers as well as changing bag. I did think of using my garden shed at night with the windows covered and expanding foam around the frame of the shed to stop any other light coming in. I reckon to begin with this aught to do it, then I'll start working a bit more strictly. I heard that perhaps a wetting agent wasn't really required and that some people prefer to use water instead?
 
oh - and especially if you're going for the colour processing kit - get some protective gloves - some of the chemicals are pretty nasty.
 
best way to test if a darkroom's actually dark enough is to go sit in it, close your eyes, and wait 10 minutes before opening them. If you can't see your hand in front of your face after 10 minutes, chances are it's dark enough :)
 
The Kodak recommended way of seeing if a darkroom is dark enough is to put on sheet of white A4 paper on the wall, and if your unable to see it in the dark then the room is light tight as the paper will reflect any incoming light.
 
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