Regarding older cameras, if they could take good pictures once (not necessarily a given) then they can still take similar pictures. Be aware too that lenses are every bit as important, and an old camera with a poor lens will seem even worse now.
You should also be aware that they aren't made equally. I've had a couple of Nikons: D610 build quality was about the same as an entry level Sony A58, and the D70 is a piece of Flexi plastic junk. Be aware of what you're buying. Finally on viewfinders, pentamirrors can be small and dark, and some of the lower-mid range DSLRs can give a rather miserable view of what you're trying to photograph. Small aperture zooms make this much worse.
No reason not to buy a DSLR, but choose carefully for a good outcome.
Once you've become used to the ability of a modern mirrorless to af pretty much anywhere in the frame (and then track whatever you've focused on as it moves within the frame), focus lock and recompose seems such a blunt instrument.Focus lock and recompose is a basic principle of even film cameras. Providing it not in continuous mode of course.
Focus lock and recompose is a basic principle of even film cameras. Providing it not in continuous mode of course.
But, it does not mean that the ability to focus on a subject at the edge of the frame cannot be done, as an earlier post implied.
That is the only way I focus and composeFocus and recompose and hope that depth covers the movement you've done. Sorry. That was good enough when all I had was small apertures and small prints but not today.
That is the only way I focus and compose
, even on my XT2. I’ve never had a problem. I dont letting the camera pick where it focuses. I’m sure it works pretty much all the time but I prefer single point focus point
And with a modern mirrorless and hundreds of AF points you can do exactly the same - but without having to recompose - fame the scene, pick the focus point, shoot.That is the only way I focus and compose
, even on my XT2. I’ve never had a problem. I dont letting the camera pick where it focuses. I’m sure it works pretty much all the time but I prefer single point focus point
Of course it does. DSLR's can't focus to the edge of the frame because they don't have anything like full coverage so you have three choices, alter the composition, crop for the composition you want or focus and recompose and hope the depth or the size of the print hides what you've done.
Not at all, i regularly use f2-f4. I have genuinely never noticed a difference between the 2. If there is then it’s not enough to worry about. A lot of my favourite photos aren’t what you’d called tack sharp. For one reason or another.If you've never had a problem I guess you always shoot at small apertures and/or don't look too closely. Many DSLR's had few really good focus points, maybe only one, and in those days it made sense to use one focus point but things have moved on.
I don't let the camera choose where to focus either. I select eye detect and let the camera do it but that's a very different thing from letting the camera decide what to focus on. When I'm not using eye AF I position the focus point where I want it. I do still believe that if you have the time to do it MF is still the most accurate way to focus, with mirrorless of course not with a DSLR, as you get to choose exactly where the point of focus is.
Might be ok with a touch screen but having to use the tiny joy stick on the back every time would drive me madAnd with a modern mirrorless and hundreds of AF points you can do exactly the same - but without having to recompose - fame the scene, pick the focus point, shoot.
Not at all, i regularly use f2-f4. I have genuinely never noticed a difference between the 2. If there is then it’s not enough to worry about. A lot of my favourite photos aren’t what you’d called tack sharp. For one reason or another.
To be fair I do use face detection sometimes, but not that often. I only use it as the XT2 reverts back to single point focus when it doesn’t detect a face.
That makes no sense at all, if two cameras in the same scene select the focus point of an eye, aperture & Fl being equal, both images will have the same qualities and the same things "to hide" ie depth of field limitations and OOF areas.
Enjoy your photography!
I select eye detect...
The only time it really bugs me is with landscape, I move the focus point then.Then with respect you haven't looked closely enough to see the effect focusing and recomposing has and anyway it's now clear you wouldn't mind and that's maybe a good thing for you. I do pixel peep as I like to see a nice file and I like to be sure that what I want to be the main point of focus is.
What makes a good photo is an entirely different thing. Tack sharpness has never been anywhere near the top of the list for me and I have any number of pictures with minor to serious image quality issues which I like but I think the point here is the ability of kit to allow you/us to get the picture we want. DSLR's and SLR's and RF's just wouldn't enable me to do what I want now because my photography has changed over the years. It's not because I'm particularly demanding it's just that I like the compositional freedom and the consistency that even modest modern kit brings and I'd find DSLR's too limiting now.
What if the subject doesn't have an eye? I had a photo spoiled because the mirrorless camera had focused on the eye of the person behind the object I wanted in focus.
There's no single solution that works in every scenario.
It was on by mistake!Then don't use eye focus![]()
Pilot error comes free of charge with every cameraIt was on by mistake!
I looked into that a while ago but never tried it. I’ve yet to use the D80 I just got outside but having used it inside a little it does seem that it’s the optical viewfinder aspect of film cameras that I really like so I can see myself winding film down a bit and trying a DSLR with a split image screen. The only 2 film cameras I’m likely to use is my Rollei 35 as it’s so easy to carry around and fingers crossed a Canon iv Barnack copy I’ve ordered. If I don’t like the Canon iv I’ll return it and probably look into the split image screen on a DSLRThis got me thinking about manual focussing and a quick search shows that I can get a third party split image screen for my Nikon D600.
As I grenerally use the Nikon with manual focus lenses, I might get one of those. That said, I can focus manual lenses on the D600 with the standard screen, well enough for my needs.
Yeah I wouldn’t build up a whole kit really. I have a 35mm lens, 50mm on the D80, and that’s pretty much all I’d want. Perhaps a 35mm equivalent but I like the 50mm focal length.Dslr's a now only realistically found on the second hand shelves and at greatly reduced prices.
Very few of them are still repairable.
However as long as they still work they are as good as they ever were.
But they are not systems to build for the future as even their lens technology and image quality is getting left increasingly far behind.
but if you need a high quality disposable camera they could be an obvious choice.
I doubt I'll be spending much on DSLR's. They are more used for fun really, same as my film cameras. For anything really important I use the Fuji.I’d compare the current market for DSLR’s to SLR sales in the early 2000’s, back then a Canon 30e or EOS 3 were great cameras at not before seen bargain prices. As now the 6dII or 5dIV
But there was no point to an EOS300 or 3000, as now I wouldn’t recommend anyone waste money on a similar spec DSLR.
There’ll be Nikon equivalents of those but I’m not familiar.
I have a touch screen on my A7iv, but only use it when navigating the menus - the joysick is much quicker and easier to use, while the camera is still to my eye (but I used the same method with my old DSLR, so am used to it).Might be ok with a touch screen but having to use the tiny joy stick on the back every time would drive me mad
It was done by the NHS at a local doctors surgery. I noticed attached to the large desk top device, that you place you chin on, was a Canon D70.
So it looks like the NHS thinks they still have a use.
I feel your sting!I don't know a lot about photography, and having never used a DSLR this is just an observation.
Yesterday I had my first, "Diabetic Retina screening" .
It was done by the NHS at a local doctors surgery. I noticed attached to the large desk top device, that you place you chin on, was a Canon D70.
So it looks like the NHS thinks they still have a use.
I still have a laptop which must be on it's last legs by now but still soldiers on. It has windows XP and I keep it running because my Nikon film CS5 scanner will not run on any later operating system unless I buy an after market software programme at over £100 - no thanks. The Nikon software originally supplied works and works well. In fact I could not be bothered to learn the new programme so why change?Was it part of the screening kit? As I said at the beginning, if they produced good images once then they will still produce images to the same standard. In the case of lab and especially clinical test equipment, consistent reliability is required, and you may well find bits of kit running from windows 7 or even XP in various places - this can be problematic sometimes, and I have some instruments 10 to 20 years old which still work well but can't be used with current computer soft and hardware.
As has so often been said: "if it ain't broke - don't fix it!"... if they produced good images once then they will still produce images to the same standard.
The d70 must have been current when the kit was bought and assembled. There would be no good reason to change it.I don't know a lot about photography, and having never used a DSLR this is just an observation.
Yesterday I had my first, "Diabetic Retina screening" .
It was done by the NHS at a local doctors surgery. I noticed attached to the large desk top device, that you place you chin on, was a Canon D70.
So it looks like the NHS thinks they still have a use.
Really a bit of a faff. One of the reasons I prefer a non AF camera film or digital it will always do as I ask and not refocus when the sensor thinks it it needs to. Each to their own and what floats your boat, but don't you think that cameras have gone too far and people don't really understand how to work them properly. Looking at the handbook for my F2 has 46 pages the one for my D800 has 442. Who on earth has ever read it cover to cover and are they any the wiser?It makes perfect sense. I'll explain.
What I was talking about is the ability of mirrorless to focus anywhere in the frame. DSLR's can't do that because they have a limited number of focus points usually in the central area.
So. With mirrorless I have compositional freedom and I can have, for example, a face anywhere in the frame and still be able to AF (or MF) on it. You can't do that with a DSLR with its focus points all clustered together in the central area and poor if any MF aids. The only way to do it is to alter your composition or shoot with an available focus point and then crop the picture to get the framing you wanted.
Focus and recompose is not the answer for me as it will lead to the point of focus moving. It's only the answer if the photographer is willing to accept the fact that the point of focus will not be where it originally was or uses dof to cover the fact or just doesn't care. All are valid I suppose![]()
I would argue that the features in a modern mirrorless have emphasised the 'art' side of photography rather than diminished it, with increases in dynamic range and ISO handling, you can set aperture and shutter to what you want artisticly (and the camera will handle the exposure via ISO), choose a focus point wherever it suits your composition (rather than being restricted to a small central cluster of points).Really a bit of a faff. One of the reasons I prefer a non AF camera film or digital it will always do as I ask and not refocus when the sensor thinks it it needs to. Each to their own and what floats your boat, but don't you think that cameras have gone too far and people don't really understand how to work them properly. Looking at the handbook for my F2 has 46 pages the one for my D800 has 442. Who on earth has ever read it cover to cover and are they any the wiser?
Not for me-keep it simple and you can concentrate on what you are photographing. Photography is classed as an art and technology has taken away some of the best parts of it. Especially creation and personal skill.
Who wrote it - Leo Tolstoy?![]()