Do I need a lower F number lens?

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willb1983

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Will
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Hi all,

I have a Nikon D80 with the kit 18-135mm lens. I'm really into motorsport but find I have loads of blurry shots. I'm shooting in manual with a quick shutter speed (600 slowest), low ISO (100 or 200) and around F5.6. I still suffer from a lot of blurry shots or if they're focused, too dark.

Guessing I need around an F2.8?

Any advice appreciated.

Cheers

Will
 
Can you post a couple, with EXIF? I'd try upping the ISO for a faster shutter speed for a start.
 
Hello Will,
Welcome to TP
I too shoot with a D80 and have recently found myself shooting motocross with mixed results ....many of them blurred...........partly due to using too slo a shutter speed (1/100 or 1/160) and partly due to inexperience in panning.
Are you using autofocus on the lens or manual focus?
perhaps if you upload a photo or two for us to see then it will help us to help you ....
 
Without an image it's difficult to tell if your problem is with incorrect shutter speed, focusing problem or poor panning technique (or any combination of the above.) If you can post up an example it will be much easier to make a diagnosis.
 
Here we go. On Sunday I took a few pictures of friends RC cars, not typical motor sport but it's all practise!

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That's the simple exif from iPhoto. Not sure how to export the large exif.
 
I was listening to Scott bournes podcast a couple of weeks ago he shoots motorsport his tip was to shoot at a min. of 1/800 second so you still get the idea of movement if that doesn't work keep on increasing shutter speed. I'd increase Iso I use a 7d and go two max Iso 1250 I would do research on your camera and see what is the highest usable iso people recommend. Noise In the film days was called grain and people loved it.
Do you pan with your subject that can obviously also help.
 
willb1983 said:
Here we go. On Sunday I took a few pictures of friends RC cars, not typical motor sport but it's all practise!

That's the simple exif from iPhoto. Not sure how to export the large exif.
Click to expand...



Thats a small object what focus mode are you using? in canon world I would be using Ai servo to track the car (not sure what mode it's call in Nikon world) as a guide for a stationary object for every 100mm of zoom I use min. 1/100 of a second for a moving target you'll struggle at that speed the slowest you can hands hold at with even fast glass is about 1/30
 
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Looks as if you're using 1/40th & 1/50th on those two - way too slow! Are you in Aperture Priority? If so, the low light will cause the shutter speed to drop so's it can keep to f/5.6. I'd try Shutter Priority, around 1/800, and bump up the ISO to allow this.
 
ignore the fast glass comment that has no impact on hand holding that was a stupid thing to say fast or slow glass doesn't affect the min 1/30 for hand holding
 
In response to your question regarding needing a faster lens..............my personal advice for the moment would be to have a go at panning after taking on board some advice from the link I just gave and for the moment up your ISO if you need to in order to get a suitable shutter speed then see how you go....a "faster F/2.8) lens will most likely help but like me, you will need the skills to go with it!
I know from my own experience that the D80 tends to throw out quite a lot of noise much up from 400 iso but the fact that it will go to equivalent of 3200 means it will give you the exposure even it it means a noisy/grainy picture...better than a blurry one!
 
pablo_paul said:
Thats a small object what focus mode are you using? in canon world I would be using Ai servo to track the car (not sure what mode it's call in Nikon world) as a guide for a stationary object for every 100mm of zoom I use min. 1/100 of a second for a moving target you'll struggle at that speed the slowest you can hands hold at with even fast glass is about 1/30
Click to expand...

If the Ai servo mode on Canon is where the focusing automatically adjusts as the object moves then the equivalent in Nikon is AF-C ( or at least it is on the D80)
 
I was panning properly or so I thought. I was actually shooting on a combination of manual and sport mode when things were not coming out quite as I wanted (cheating I know). For more static shots I shoot on A, never really shot on S... The cars were small objects but I hate being defeated!

Thanks for the replies so far :)
 
From the advice I received, to pan off road is much more difficult than on tarmac track due to the increased movements ( up, down and every other which way), hence a faster shutter speed is required...
 
That makes sense. I'll have a read through tomorrow of the link you gave me and put into practise all the tips everyone has given me. Fingers crossed for a better second time!

Thanks all.
 
You need to set your camera on aperture priority mode, set the lens its widest aperture. Set iso to 400 and that should be a good iso/aperture combo for most outdoor situations for your average f/5.6 lens.

Use only a single focus point and use focus tracking.

Then when you get that right we can talk about panning!

What lens are you using out of interest?
 
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odd jim said:
You need to set your camera on aperture priority mode, set the lens its widest aperture. Set iso to 400 and that should be a good iso/aperture combo for most outdoor situations for your average f/5.6 lens.

Use only a single focus point and use focus tracking.

Then when you get that right we can talk about panning!

What lens are you using out of interest?
Click to expand...

Well said Jim. Thats the most useful advice.

It seems like the OP have technique issues.
 
Up the ISO as far as you can while remaining happy with the noise.
And Practise.
 
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