Does it need lubricating?

[Asha]

Today I’m in my darkroom ….. First time in ages!

I’ve dug out my old Smiths clock ( I just love these old methods as opposed to modern tech) .

Anyway it’s not so happy with itself in so far as running slow at times , like really struggling to turn for a few seconds then it regains its rythme for a while until it struggled against another stubborn spot.

I’ve tried cycling it a number of times and it was showing some improvement but then following a pause, it’s problem has returned.

I’ve removed the back and I have some very fine ( sewing machine) oil , however I am no expert with clock workings so I’m asking you lot for advice.
Does it need lubricating and if possible to do it myself, what bit do I lubricate ?

 

[angelpaaul]

Sounds like it does and machine oil is OK.

First, take the mechanism out, you need to get to both sides.

Use a cocktail stick to apply a small amount of the oil and make sure you don’t apply too much. It won’t harm it, it’s just a waste and will run down and drip everywhere.

As to where, on the end of the spindles where they come through the frame, it looks like it’s countersunk. Only put enough to fill it, if some runs that’s OK, just don’t soak it. No need to oil any of the cogs, they don’t normally need it. Also, put a couple of drops on the inside of the mainspring. That stops it from sticking on itself.

Its not that hard a thing to do and nothing ventured and all that.

Paul

 

[Nod]

TBH, I'd get it professionally serviced. You MIGHT get it running smoothly again by adding a drop of the correct oil in the right place(s) but it'll probably get worse again as the oils all harden up again.

FWIW, my Grandmother used to keep a rag with some lighter fluid on it in an old carriage clock to keep the oils from solidifying.

 

[Asha]

Sounds like it does and machine oil is OK.

First, take the mechanism out, you need to get to both sides.

Use a cocktail stick to apply a small amount of the oil and make sure you don’t apply too much. It won’t harm it, it’s just a waste and will run down and drip everywhere.

As to where, on the end of the spindles where they come through the frame, it looks like it’s countersunk. Only put enough to fill it, if some runs that’s OK, just don’t soak it. No need to oil any of the cogs, they don’t normally need it. Also, put a couple of drops on the inside of the mainspring. That stops it from sticking on itself.

Its not that hard a thing to do and nothing ventured and all that.

Paul

Excellent thanks!

 

[Asha]

TBH, I'd get it professionally serviced. You MIGHT get it running smoothly again by adding a drop of the correct oil in the right place(s) but it'll probably get worse again as the oils all harden up again.

FWIW, my Grandmother used to keep a rag with some lighter fluid on it in an old carriage clock to keep the oils from solidifying.

Ironically Nod I have a mantelpiece clock that was my grandads ( possibly in the family before him.

It still works including the half hourly chime that is loud enough to wake the whole village.
It too has its moments where it will run fine for days then all of a sudden refuse to keep going for more than a half hour.
I doubt that it’s ever seen a service so that without doubt is for a professional.
I could consider having them both done at the same time.

 

[angelpaaul]

TBH, I'd get it professionally serviced. You MIGHT get it running smoothly again by adding a drop of the correct oil in the right place(s) but it'll probably get worse again as the oils all harden up again.

FWIW, my Grandmother used to keep a rag with some lighter fluid on it in an old carriage clock to keep the oils from solidifying.

Perhaps but you have to weigh up the value of the clock against the cost of a service.

 

[Nod]

Dad's old Smiths timer seems to work perfectly (I use it as a kitchen timer when I'm not wearing my hearing aids!) but he had a watchmaker friend who cast an eye over it from time to time (no pun intended!) If it ever gets unreliable, I'll be getting it professionally CLA rather than trying myself.

The fact that Asha's seems to have stubborn spots suggests that it might be more than lubrication required.

 

[Sangoma]

Clock oils don't gum up, sewing machine oils may be OK.

What type of escapement does it have?
Lots of Smiths clocks used a pin lever escapement, they are extremely accurate, but can have problems that make them run sometimes and not others.

 

[Asha]

Clock oils don't gum up, sewing machine oils may be OK.

What type of escapement does it have?
Lots of Smiths clocks used a pin lever escapement, they are extremely accurate, but can have problems that make them run sometimes and not others.

Ok so me being completely ignorant with such things I had to google that to find out what the escapement is!!

From what I can see it’s a DEADBEAT escapement .……I feel all dead technical and clever now

 

[David_Mug]

My Grandfather was a clockmaker. He would always remove any old oil residue with petrol before re-lubricating a movement. More appropriate solvents are available nowadays. I have seen him working on the kitchen table, scrubbing a movement in a tin of petrol with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth. I suppose that when you have survived the trenches of the First World War a minor explosion in a kitchen is not too much of a worry.

 

[Sangoma]

My Grandfather was a clockmaker. He would always remove any old oil residue with petrol before re-lubricating a movement. More appropriate solvents are available nowadays. I have seen him working on the kitchen table, scrubbing a movement in a tin of petrol with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth. I suppose that when you have survived the trenches of the First World War a minor explosion in a kitchen is not too much of a worry.

I'm not a clockmaker, just repair and rebuild as a hobby, but I also use petrol, but don't smoke
I first put the whole movement into white spirit in an ultrasonic cleaner for an hour at 60C, then wash off with petrol

 

[Sangoma]

Ok so me being completely ignorant with such things I had to google that to find out what the escapement is!!

From what I can see it’s a DEADBEAT escapement .……I feel all dead technical and clever now

What sometimes causes something to run for a while and stop, or sometimes run and sometimes not is too much friction on the escapement.

The teeth on the escapement gear (not accurate terminology, but hope to make it clearer) actually give the balance wheel or pendulum a slight push to keep them "swinging" The sloping side of the teeth that faces out pushed the pendulum or balance wheel on each tic.
The escapement gear is driven by the main spring, but there is a lot of gearing, so the torque on it is very small.

With a cocktail stick that has been dipped in clock oil, but you can not see any oil on it, rub it on the gear faces, It should not seem like you are applying any oil to it!
This will often cure a clock that runs for minutes or even hours then stops, often you can watch the pendulum or balance wheel slowing down until it no longer works the escapement.

Of course, the rest of the movement must be right as well.

I was shown this by a Rhodesian clock maker more than 50 years ago, and it has often saved the day.

 

[StephenM]

Thanks everyone for the information. I have the same timer as Asha bought about 60 years ago, so I may need this information sooner rather than later.

 

[Asha]

So I took the risk of a adding a minute amount of oil and hey presto atm the timer ticks smoothly and consistently and is spot on with the stopwatch on my phone so both it and I are quite happy

Thanks for all the advice everyone