Donington BSB Help Please

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502
Name
Colin
Edit My Images
Yes
I'm up for the firing squad here but would like C&C on these please. Took loads of shots on Saturday, i have a Canon 550D & use a old 100-300mm f4.5/5.6 USM. There were a lot of people on "our" side of the fence with a lot of very expensive gear. Have a look & i look forward to any comments, good or bad !! Col


IMG_9560 by colspics1, on Flickr



IMG_9684 by colspics1, on Flickr


IMG_9550 by colspics1, on Flickr


IMG_8731 by colspics1, on Flickr
 
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Need an image to c&c 1st ;)
 
Are these quite small files as they look very low res on my iPad

The camera should be set on servo af , shutter priority , an iso that allows the shutter speed you're after depend on available light, the lower the better

The panning looks good , you've got movement in the wheels so if you're not happy with the results it could just be you're at the limit of your equipment

Bikes are hard for a slow focusing lens because they're small and fast


I was at donnington on Saturday , you're a long way from the track or looking through a fence so if you're cropping as well that won't help
 
Thanks Darren, i have resized them now, i do it through Flikr because i can't seem to get any to upload on here ! These are straight from the camera with no cropping or post production. I was at the hairpin later in the afternoon & as you can see in the Hopkins photo the track was like washed out, some of my photos you can't even see it because of the sun. I am learning by setting the camera on manual & adjusting shutter speed, aperture & ISO as i go along but with no real knowledge just hope for the best. Col
 
Agree with what Darren has aleady said, but can I ask why you dont do any pp?
The easiest way I found to to start to get to grips with exposure is to check the histogram on the camera monitor. It doesn't guarantee it will be right but hopefully it will get you in the ball park and don't be afriad to use your exposure compensation button.
 
Thanks for your reply Graham. PP is still a minefield for me at the moment too, the photos would probably look worse ! I was looking at the exposure meter on the camera & trying to get it to the centre by half pressing the shutter, what will i look for on the histogram that will help me ? I know the gear i've got is probably not up to it but i am going to try & get the best out of it & hopefully work out the best settings for what i am trying to do ! The lens was £65 off EBay so i can't really expect too much i suppose ! Col
 
Thanks for your reply Graham. PP is still a minefield for me at the moment too, the photos would probably look worse ! I was looking at the exposure meter on the camera & trying to get it to the centre by half pressing the shutter, what will i look for on the histogram that will help me ? I know the gear i've got is probably not up to it but i am going to try & get the best out of it & hopefully work out the best settings for what i am trying to do ! The lens was £65 off EBay so i can't really expect too much i suppose ! Col

Col I know what you mean about pp - what software have you got?

Basically If you look at the histogram after you take a shot all the spikes hopefully should be spread evenly, if all the spikes are at one end it could mean the exposure will be out, but as always this never always true. You best bet is to google the subject Im sure you can find a much better explination than I can manage. While you at google to find a explanition between exposure, iso and shutter speed.

I think you got the best idea - manage to understand exposure etc first then worry about what gear you got
 
Thanks Graham, i have Photoshop, it's only the cs2 but will do all i need, what would you recommend on these shots ? I know everybody has been where i am but i will get there in the end ! It's like, you change the shutter speed & evrything else goes to cock, aperture etc. !! Theres a club meeting at Aintree on Saturday so i will try again ! Thanks again Col
 
Based on what I saw ages ago with a similar very old and cheap lens, you are hitting the limits of your kit far more than you skill limits...

Have a look for a different lens... a Canon 70-300 IS will be quite a bit better (I went from an old Canon 75-300 to this and the results were staggering in improvement) or better still a Canon 100-400 or better a bit still a Sigma 100-300 f4.
 
Thanks Desantnik, does that mean my skill limits are good ?? I like the idea of Canon 70-300mm f4 L, would i need IS in this ?, also i think it will be a bit short for some circuits, do you think the same shots would look better with this ? I am getting the bikes into most shots now ( i took 1100 on Saturday ) & more in focus too, it's the basic exposure stuff i struggle with, thanks again Col
 
Thanks Desantnik, does that mean my skill limits are good ?? I like the idea of Canon 70-300mm f4 L, would i need IS in this ?, also i think it will be a bit short for some circuits, do you think the same shots would look better with this ? I am getting the bikes into most shots now ( i took 1100 on Saturday ) & more in focus too, it's the basic exposure stuff i struggle with, thanks again Col

Your skill is probably getting there, but what will hold you back is the dissapointment you will feel compared to what you see others producing. You can shout "its the photographer not the kit" all you want but ultimately it will put you off and practice is what you need to get good - lots of it. With poorer kit the results will depress you enough to give up... trust me, I've been there!

The 70-300 f4L is undoubtably a nice piece of kit according to what I've read... its also a very expensive piece of kit. I'd suggest that unless you have a pile of cash burning a hole in your pocket you take a look at one of the options I gave you earlier as the next thing you will run into is the performance of the 550D. I don't believe that to be your first problem, but you will encounter it as you start to push and get better.

Basic exposure shouldn't be a problem though.... some quick tips:

1) Don't shoot into the sun! Before you start, locate the sun.

2) Select something like centre weighted metering, or evaluative metering NOT SPOT METERING!!!

3) Different coloured subjects (and or backgrounds!) will fool the metering... yes, colours are about light intensity... lighter the colour, the more light. You will get different results shooting a maroon red bike to a pink bike even if the amount of light falling on the subject remains the same (eg sticking it under a spotlight)... the darkness and lightness of a colour is actually how much light it absorbs or reflects.... sounds weird, but its not.

A black HM Plant bike against a white advertising hording is going to be a problem... you just need to understand how your camera "sees" the scene to base its decisions on. Its not a clever piece of kit, its quite stupid at this level!

4) Presumably you are using shutter priority (TV mode), watch that the apertures the camera is deciding for you don't trip you up - in particular you could have "safety shift" turned on, this will decrease the shutter speed should the camera not be able to open the aperture wide enough for the exposure it has worked out it needs. The result will be blurry shots! Turn off safety shift, which will either result in a loss of light yielding a no-fire or underexposed shots... the answer, turn up the ISO.

I dunno if that #4 makes any sense, if it doesn't then maybe you do have to go and understand what aperture, shutter speed and ISO all mean. I won't try and explain, there are better teachers than me, but do listen to one piece of advice - its not complicated!!

Absolutely it is not rocket science!

Hope this helps!
 
Thanks for taking the time to reply, i will read that over a few times to make sure i understand it. I really do know what you mean about the colours too from shooting Stoner on the Resol Honda to Simoncelli on the white Honda ! So the basic 70-300mm IS in your opinion is going to give better results if i were using it on these photos ? I am going to a club meeting at Aintree on Saturday to try out your suggestions, thanks again i really appreciate your comments, at the moment it does seem like rocket science btw !! Col
 
Yes you would see much better results with the 70-300IS... allow me to post something I've posted on here before so you can see...

Here we go, this is one from the nasty file...

BSB Brands Sept 2006.

img_2028.jpg


I haven't tried to sharpen, level or anything to this simply because there is too much BLURGH about it to make it worth doing. Shutter speed waaaaay too fast, but I quite liked the composition!

The 75-300 (non-IS) really was a POS. Soft as a soft thing and CA all over the damned place.

6 months later in May 2007 I was back at Brands for BSB, armed with my new 70-300IS. The difference was quite dramatic!

457034553_331165e246.jpg


And what with that having been over winter, I'd not really improved in skill, just kit!
 
It's good to see the examples to compare, the first pic looks similar to where i am now, the season is nearly over now so i have lots to think about lens wise, i have been at it about 6 months & done about 3 meetings so am quite happy to get the bikes, first time out at Oulton half the pics were of the fences & trees !! Thanks again Col
 
It's bikes at Oulton this Saturday so it's not too late to get some more practice in
 
If you decide to go to Oulton there's usually a few from tp there
 
Hi Col

Met you at Oulton Park at the first BSB meet we chatted down by Lodge, you are doing well don't be dis-heartened its a steep learning curve and it takes lots of practice stop trying too hard just go out and enjoy it and the results will come.

Thats a woman's take on photography. :D:D

Not far from Aintree to Oulton we did it once.

Sharon :wave:
 
Theres a bike track day at oulton tomorrow. Cars today.
 
Hi Col

I have the 100-400 and I love it, it does everything I want it too, clear crisp images, some say its a little soft at the 400 end but I think that is being alittle picky to be fair, Its one hell of a step up from the lens you have at the minute but my theory on camera gear is this:

I buy the very best my funds will allow, even if it means saving for months on end, that way if a I get bad results its me not the equipment, for me the equipment I have, I very much doubt I will ever reach its full potential,

spike
 
Hi spike, thanks for that & i agree with all you say, think i am going to save, i started at Oulton BSB in May & half the pics where of the fences & trees ! So i am getting the shots a lot better now. I like the look of the 70-200mm f4 but i think it will be too short so that will mean a tele-converter & then if i go for the IS version it's gonna be £1000 ! I like what you say though, there are probably people who will say " i have this" or "i have that" but i just want something that is going to be better than what i have that won't cost the earth !! Thanks again, Col
 
A 55-250 is a great lens for the money, can be picked up for about £120 on mpbphotographic or on amazon for £160 i think. Heres a few pics of mine from that lens.
If you look at the exif info on your pictures you can see how often you use your 70-300 at the 300 end, with me looking at the exif i notice ver rarely did i use over 200 so decided on 70-200 f4 non is which is a cracking lens in itself.

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=338662
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=340370
 
The 55-250 is the bottom end of my "useful for motorsport" glass list, one step below the 70-300 IS.

If you can afford it, go for the 70-300IS instead. Have a look on here - they show up second hand a lot and you'll find them dirt cheap really. Even new they are best bang for buck in motorsport.

I'd probably say for now avoid the 70-200's. They are ultimately where its at, but if you have just one lens for the next year, make sure its capable of 300mm (or 400mm if you get the 100-400).
 
Just throwing my two pence in, I currently use the 55-250 IS and find it to be a great lens for the price it is. However, I have shot bikes with it before (once, at Cadwell) and found 250mm to be a bit...too short. Which at Cadwell Park is saying something. Again I make do with what I've got and I've managed to get some good(ish) results from the lens combined with my 350D (again fairly basic).

Here's a link to some of my shots with the 55-250 - http://www.flickr.com/photos/foofighter502/
 
Hi Adam, they all look good to me, all taken with the 55-250 ? The lens looks very good for the price, like i said i am using an old 100-300mm USM that was £65 used. I think it is the same for everyone, you buy a cheap lens to start you off & as you get better you want more ! Especially with some of the bike photos you see on here. It's a brilliant site with people who know what they are doing taking the time to help us out, i think i am going to get 70-300mmIS like Desantnik said, i think my photos will be better with this....... i hope !! Col
 
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