Equipment for Panoramic Photography

merv

merv

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Mervyn
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Hi. I have just bought a good stout tripod and want advice on a head for panoramic photography please and any other advice.:bang:
 
If it's distant landscapes, you don't need anything special, or even need a tripod at all. Just hold the camera level, allow plenty of overlap between frames, and software sorts out the stitching.

But if it's closer range subjects like interiors, that's much harder. The key component there is a nodal rail so the lens pivots around the entrance pupil to avoid parallax errors. Then a pano panning head also makes life a lot easier, so you can pan dead level without having to level the tripod. These things tend to be fairly pricey.
 
Only "distant" landscapes though. Anything with foreground detail taken with a wide lens will give you problems hand held. Often if a normal tripod is used too.

If you regularly take panoramic images, a proper tripod head is a worthwhile investment. The less time spent arsing around on a computer the better if you ask me... and the results are better.
 
Manfrotto 804RC2 head. Why this one? not only does it have a built in level but markings so as you pan around it allows you to do the same amount of overlaps.

dsc94201024x768.jpg


you can just see the markings for equal overlap as you turn it around. Don't forget to lock off the the camera so you don't get different brightness as you pan around.

Realspeed
 
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that's just a normal three way head. It doesn't rotate the camera/lens around the lens's focal node, so anything close to camera will suffer parallax error when joining.
 
Pookeyhead said:
that's just a normal three way head. It doesn't rotate the camera/lens around the lens's focal node, so anything close to camera will suffer parallax error when joining.
Click to expand...

...and it won't pan flat either, unless the tripod (as opposed to just the head) is dead level.

Edit: lots of suitable bits and bobs here http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Camera-Gear-UK
 
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Hoppy would you care to make any specific suggestions for a rail and pano panning head?:clap:
 
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merv said:
Hoppy would you care to make any specific suggestions for a rail and pano panning head?:clap:
Click to expand...

Sorry, no not really, other than to say that if you're serious about tripod work then Arca Swiss type rails/clamps/heads etc is the way to go, plus L-bracket.

To get accurate stitching of foreground subjects, the key component is the 'nodal pivot' as it's often called (incorrectly - actually entrance pupil) and rail. There's no way of doing it without the right equipment. Entrance pupil is close to the front of the lens, and shifts about a bit with zooms, and you have to find the exact spot by experiment (easy though). A quick google came up with this - scroll down to pic of Canon camera http://www.wonderfulphotos.com/articles/cameras/rrs_pano/

Some links:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Camera-Gea...1000521017&_sid=4097057&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

http://stores.ebay.com/Hejnar-Photo

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/DCs-Photog...92169018&_sid=896782438&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Also check out Really Right Stuff, Kirk, Custom Brackets etc.
 
Thanks HOppy. I have an L bracket with an arcs swiss QR plate on an Induro BHL2 ball head. Not sure what extra pano equipment could go onto this and where? So many questions and so little knowledge. Did a pano tonight with this kit and must publish soon.
 
merv said:
Thanks HOppy. I have an L bracket with an arcs swiss QR plate on an Induro BHL2 ball head. Not sure what extra pano equipment could go onto this and where? So many questions and so little knowledge. Did a pano tonight with this kit and must publish soon.
Click to expand...

Okay, then you're well on the way :thumbs:

The only bit that you need is a nodal rail/slide, something like this 200mm Sunway http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUNWAYFOT..._Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item3a8196873d You would then use the head's panning base, which will be fine so long as the tripod is dead level. In practise though, getting level pans is much easier with an independently levelling panning clamp, eg this, also from Sunway, though there are plenty of alternatives http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUNWAYFOT..._Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item3a6e22cce9 Quite a few of the better heads have this built-in, or you could replace your Induro clamp with a panning version.

Only caveat I would mention is with a rail like the one above, you'll probably need a spacer to raise the camera a bit, so that the lens/hood clears the rail.
 
Hi Hoppy thanks. Sadly your links are no longer available but I have googled Sunways website and see the nodal rail slides and pano clamp.
Where does the pano clamp mount? My Induro head which mounts straight onto the tripod has the ball connected rigidly to the Arca Swiss QR plate and I'm not sure where the pano clamp would fit in. Maybe it would engage in the QR plate? Will try and photo my set up and it might be clearer for you. Thanks for your help
merv:clap:
 
Here is my first attempt last night using careful levelling of the tripod and camera. I noticed when rotating the bubbles went off centre despite my best efforts.



This is my set up Hoppy and I wonder how to adapt this to include a pano clamp and a nodal rail




merv
 
Pookeyhead said:
that's just a normal three way head. It doesn't rotate the camera/lens around the lens's focal node, so anything close to camera will suffer parallax error when joining.
Click to expand...

Actually it does do 360 degree marked off on a scale. The scale allows the same degree of over lap for each shot.

Parallex error is when the eye piece isn't on the same level as the lens. This can't occur with a DSLR camera.
Its no different from the photo above by Mervyn
 
merv said:
Hi Hoppy thanks. Sadly your links are no longer available but I have googled Sunways website and see the nodal rail slides and pano clamp.
Where does the pano clamp mount? My Induro head which mounts straight onto the tripod has the ball connected rigidly to the Arca Swiss QR plate and I'm not sure where the pano clamp would fit in. Maybe it would engage in the QR plate? Will try and photo my set up and it might be clearer for you. Thanks for your help
merv:clap:
Click to expand...

Sorry about the links, they work for me.

The panning clamp simply mounts on top of the standard clamp, or replaces it - depending on what you get. It simply means that when the tripod is not level, and it's rarely exactly level in practise, then all you have to do it level the top panning clamp and the camera rotates dead flat. Very easy.
 
realspeed said:
Actually it does do 360 degree marked off on a scale. The scale allows the same degree of over lap for each shot.

Parallex error is when the eye piece isn't on the same level as the lens. This can't occur with a DSLR camera.
Its no different from the photo above by Mervyn
Click to expand...

The kind of parallax Pooks is talking about is when the lens changes position, and therefore viewpoint, when you pan with a normal head. This doesn't make any odds with distant landscapes, but makes a huge difference with closer foreground subjects.

A nodal rail allows you to adjust this, so that the lens' entrance pupil becomes the pivot point. When you rotate around that, foreground objects don't move and stay in the same relative positions so they stitch together seamlessly.
 
Thanks guys for all that. Very useful and enlightening. :clap:
merv
 
Jan i see you suggest a PC-1 pano clamp. Would the PC - 0 do?:bang:
 
After a bit of research went for a Benro PC - 0 Panning clamp and a Kirk LPR - 1 Long Rail Plate. All as recommended by Wex. The clamp is dovetailed underneath to to fit onto by existing Arco QR plate and integral bullhead. Thanks for all help:clap:
 
merv said:
After a bit of research went for a Benro PC - 0 Panning clamp and a Kirk LPR - 1 Long Rail Plate. All as recommended by Wex. The clamp is dovetailed underneath to to fit onto by existing Arco QR plate and integral bullhead. Thanks for all help:clap:
Click to expand...

Just the job :thumbs: And with that design of rail and clamp, you've got a bit more height so may not need a spacer.*

When you get it, check that it's long enough (it's 6.5in, yes?). With a big lens like your 14-24, I would guess that to pivot around the entrance pupil you'll be right near the end. Easy to do, and you'll get best accuracy by choosing a closer subject (like a few feet away) and a middle distance subject (a few yards). I use a door frame and line it up against a window frame. Just slide the rail back and forth until you find the position where the two targets don't move in relation to each other as you pan. With a zoom, the exact point will shift a little at different focal lengths.

*Just remembered you've got a D4 - no clearance problem with that.
 
Thanks Hoppy ( or is it Richard) Ordered at 5pm and Wex have despatched already with delivery to N Ireland tomorrow. Very impressive. Theres a guy there Paul Morgan and between him and you I got sorted. Will shout if I need your help again. I have recently been using the 24-70/2.8. I hate the distortion with the 14-24 but it seems to be a rave lens?
merv:clap:
 
merv said:
Thanks Hoppy ( or is it Richard) Ordered at 5pm and Wex have despatched already with delivery to N Ireland tomorrow. Very impressive. Theres a guy there Paul Morgan and between him and you I got sorted. Will shout if I need your help again. I have recently been using the 24-70/2.8. I hate the distortion with the 14-24 but it seems to be a rave lens?
merv:clap:
Click to expand...

You're welcome Merv.

24-70 sounds good, the longer the better really, within reason. Get more shots in, build a massive file with mega detail :thumbs: Turn the camera vertical and you can get even more frames in.
 
Thanks Hoppy. The 24-70/2.8 is a class lens in its own league. However might also use the 35/f2 which is a cheaper lens but very sharp. I suppose the lens choice is down too what you're snapping, how close etc. I also like the 24-120/f4. I got the tip to keep the camera in portrait mode from Kelby trainings online tutorials. It give the final image less of a long skinny letterbox effect.
Got the Benro clamp and nodal rail and they fit perfectly onto my existing Induro head and Arca plate.
Will stick on my first attempt.
Thanks merv:clap:
 
:thumbs:
 
merv said:
Jan i see you suggest a PC-1 pano clamp. Would the PC - 0 do?:bang:
Click to expand...
Yes, absolutely!

merv said:
Got the Benro clamp and nodal rail and they fit perfectly...
Click to expand...
Too late again! :thinking:

Sotiris gives the "little" PC0 great credits, and I went for the PC1 purely for the more balanced look mounted on the large B3 ballhead... :lol:


How about a mini-review for the TP Review section?
When selecting gear I for one always prefer other "normal" user's feedback.


Happy shooting! :thumbs:
 
realspeed said:
Actually it does do 360 degree marked off on a scale.
Click to expand...


I know, but it's not rotating the camera/lens around the focal node.. that was my point.
 
Hoppy to close the matter here is my final set-up. Thanks again


merv:clap:
 
That's the stuff Merv :thumbs: Have you checked that the rail is long enough with all the lenses you're likely to use? Should be okay, just to be sure. Here's a video guide to finding the entrance pupil pivot point http://acratech.net/pages.php?pageid=16 though there are plenty of other around the web. With zooms, the exact position moves around a bit, but always towards the front.
 
Hi Jonny the rail is the KIRK LRP-1 LONG RAIL. Got it from Wex Photographic. about £90 - I know expensive.:)
 
Hi Jan. The BHL2 head has an integral Arca plate at the top which is all one piece so the PC0 is connected directly to this. mere
 
Hi Hoppy thanks for the link. No have only measured the nodal point for the 24-70 and 35prime. Have 24-120 and 70-200 so will try these. Thanks for advice.
merv:clap:
 
merv said:
Hi Jan. The BHL2 head has an integral Arca plate at the top which is all one piece so the PC0 is connected directly to this. mere
Click to expand...

You could probably remove the standard clamp from the head and replace it directly with the panning clamp a permanent fitment. More convenient, saving a little weight.

You need to be a little DIY inclined as the standard clamp will likely be a pig to remove (bolt will be Loctited in) so might need some local heat combined with brute force. A neat mod, but no gain in functionality.
 
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