Beginner Evening party shoot

[UaeExile]

How did it go?

I shot another one on Sunday, black walls and red ceiling!! I also experimented with twisting the camera to get light effects. I think it worked well on some, and not so well on others!

Link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/131765843@N02/sets/72157651745780319/

It was hard work Jamie. 40degrees running around a massive compound in the middle of the bloody desert

Great fun though. A few shots here:

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/the-queens-birthday-party.586835/

 

[JamieW]

Switch off the auto focus and manually focus in such situations. The flash will still operate ok.

Most flash guns are useless beyond about 6/8 feet / 2-3 metres anyway due to the light drop off.

So get used to being able to judge that distance without the crutch of your camera.

That is usually two to three strides, practice it and measure your pace. ....... And you thought the photographer was just walking up to the group to arrange everyone? It has a dual use!

Of course your camera will tell you accurately, but a quick sense check never harms.

The party I shot on Sunday had black walls and a red ceiling, would you still try and bounce flash or just lower the output and point it at the subject?

 

[Phil V]

The party I shot on Sunday had black walls and a red ceiling, would you still try and bounce flash or just lower the output and point it at the subject?

oooff, at that point I think I'd be using a reflector of my own to bounce off or using a bare flash off camera, bear in mind lowering the flash power doesn't soften the light, it'll just give an underexposed image, a lot of people have difficulty recognising the difference between harsh (bright) and hard (small light source) lighting.

But the latest lesson I've learned is to not be afraid of hard lighting. It's something Garry has been saying for ages, and the penny dropped when I saw Damien Lovegrove recently, harder lighting can be quite attractive, but of course it depends what you're trying to achieve.

 

[JamieW]

oooff, at that point I think I'd be using a reflector of my own to bounce off or using a bare flash off camera, bear in mind lowering the flash power doesn't soften the light, it'll just give an underexposed image, a lot of people have difficulty recognising the difference between harsh (bright) and hard (small light source) lighting.

But the latest lesson I've learned is to not be afraid of hard lighting. It's something Garry has been saying for ages, and the penny dropped when I saw Damien Lovegrove recently, harder lighting can be quite attractive, but of course it depends what you're trying to achieve.

It's difficult to use a reflector as I work alone at the moment, or would a rouge flash bender work as well? I have one of those!

 

[Phil V]

It's difficult to use a reflector as I work alone at the moment, or would a rouge flash bender work as well? I have one of those!

The flashbender isn't bad off camera, but on camera it's a bit meh IMO

 

[JamieW]

Will try it off camera next time, it's all a learning curve!

Also, I'm going through a few batteries on the flash gun each party. 4-5 hours of shooting, average 400 shots. It makes sense to me with all the work the flash gun is doing, but just want to check with you all?

 

[Nawty]

Will try it off camera next time, it's all a learning curve!

Also, I'm going through a few batteries on the flash gun each party. 4-5 hours of shooting, average 400 shots. It makes sense to me with all the work the flash gun is doing, but just want to check with you all?

Seems about right - what kind of batteries are you using?

 

[minnnt]

You can use the flash bender to make a scoop so that firing the flash over your head/shoulder will still bounce white light back at your subject. Getting the camera off camera is a good idea though. It's simple enough to hold the flash in your left hand and shoot one handed with your right. Especially considering the camera and lens you're using.

As for batteries, try upping your iso a little as it will half the power of the flash needed. I can shoot a whole boxing event with one set of batteries which lasts about 6 hours.

You will find that the cameras higher up the range will focus alot better and quicker when you get into these challenging situations. But that's what you're paying the extra dollar for. You've done a great job and well done for experimenting with the slow sync!

 

[JamieW]

Thanks, sounds like good advice will definitely try the flash bender next time.

I use Duracell batteries.

Also is it better to shoot with a larger f number when shooting groups of people? To make sure everyone is in focus, or is it just my focussing in general that needs improving?

 

[Phil V]

Thanks, sounds like good advice will definitely try the flash bender next time.

I use Duracell batteries.

Also is it better to shoot with a larger f number when shooting groups of people? To make sure everyone is in focus, or is it just my focussing in general that needs improving?

Get rechargeables:
A you're wasting money
B think of the environment.


The Enelopps are most often recommended, but any low leak 'ready to go' types are great. It's an investment that'll save hundreds in the long run.

 

[minnnt]

I have 3 sets of Duracell rechargeables (1 in each flash and a spare set) and they have never let me down. Sanyo Eneloops are supposed to be really good but have no experience of them.

Don't get obsessed with shooting at f1.8. Try f4/4.5 and make sure you're not too close to them as that will give you some leeway.