Fill in flash

Mozziephotography

Mozziephotography

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Stephen
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I attend a number of running events and I'd like to be able to use "flash" in some areas where the light is poor. I usually set the camera to Aperture priority and set the ISO to auto. The minimum shutter speed is 1/1000th sec for the fast ones at the front and then slower for being on hills etc.
Can't find anything on you tube. There is a favourite race which crosses a stream, the foliage and the time of the race means that the light is poor. The series of races starts again in April and I'd like to be able to use flash effectively for some of these events.
 
Is the question what flash to buy, or how do I use the flash I have?

You'll probably find that using a TTL flash and letting the camera work it out for you is best, and for the shutter speeds you're suggesting then you'll need 'High speed sync' on too; this does rob power from the flash so work close but with a wide-ish-angle lens and you should find it all comes together nicely

TTL does tend to over-flash at times, so be prepared to dial the auto-compensation down a bit on the flash itself, you can always lighten the runner more later in PP if needed

Post some examples later for further comments on how to improve, if any improvement is needed :)

Dave
 
I was wondering which of the Nikon SB's to buy. I won't use it every time I'm out there with the camera, just wanted to add another string to my bow. Just love learning as an OAP!
 
mossienet said:
I was wondering which of the Nikon SB's to buy. I won't use it every time I'm out there with the camera, just wanted to add another string to my bow. Just love learning as an OAP!
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The most powerful you can - so if not new then look at the older SB800, I've used two of those for over 5 years now, faultless

Dave
 
Echo Dave's comments.

Good idea. Even just a little extra splash of light can lift an image dramatically, especially on dull days. And in brighter conditions it can help to lighten harsh shadows. For more creative effects, second-curtain sync is good for moving subjects, though it's not effective until you get down to slower shutter speeds like 1/30sec, preferably longer.

A powerful gun is always best, and can be useful for lots of other things. HSS uses a lot of power. And bear in mind that when the gun is working hard, it will take two or three seconds to recharge so you have to pick your moment. Fill-in flash often doesn't require a lot of power, and less is more - don't over-do the flash brightness so it looks too unnatural. Flash is a skill - get to know how light works and it can transform your images, as well as adding a whole new area to explore (y)

Nikon guns are excellent, but there are much cheaper alternatives that, frankly, are just as good. Suggest Yongnuo 568EX, though if you think you might want to get into multiple guns, get the Yongnuo 685EX. It's basically the same gun, only a few pounds more, but has built-in radio control of multiple remote guns.
 
Thanks for that. Anything on line about moving objects and flash? Does the flash freeze a moving object? I have NO idea about this area of photography.
 
mossienet said:
Does the flash freeze a moving object?
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As you're talking about using 1/1000th sec that should stop the runner I'd have thought, the flash then adds more light as fill - like you asked for

For the flash to freeze the subject it'd have to be the main light source, rather than just fill, and unless there was hardly any ambient in the exposure then you'd get two images - one from the flash 'frozen' and one (blurred) from the ambient

Just buy one of the flashes recommended and give it a go, its really not hard at all, which may be why you can't find a video on it

Dave
 
Sorry, I'm a bit thick! I'm not sure about "adding" flash to settings to such as the one I use for runners. I'll have a go at the local cross-country race on Sunday. Thanks for all your help nd encouragement.
 
I would seriously consider getting the Godox AD360II (or whatever rebrand). The larger external battery pack recycles much quicker, the flash has (can have) a larger area of coverage, and it will be running at a lower power setting for any given situation. If you are going to be using higher SS's then you are going to need HSS, and that costs you a significant amount of power right off the top. With mine at a reduced power setting/HSS I can get about 4 images at 10-12 FPS before it has to do a full recycle (~3 sec.).

The negative is the size/weight, and the external battery/cable can be a bit cumbersome. I've used one in the camera hotshoe, but I don't know that I would really recommend it... I think a bracket would be a good idea.
It's easy to use off camera wirelessly with the flash on just about any kind of tripod/stand, or even just clamped to a post/railing/tree/branch/etc.

If it's much more "run and gun" where the weight/bulk is too limiting, then go with a powerful speedlight (TTL/HSS) on camera.
 
mossienet said:
Thanks for that. Anything on line about moving objects and flash? Does the flash freeze a moving object? I have NO idea about this area of photography.
Click to expand...
In general, flash *doesn't* freeze motion... it can, but only when it is the only/primary source of light.
 
sk66 is right, (partly as he's just said what I said but in a different way lol) but suggesting a Pro spec & priced flash to a chap without Pro spec needs is definitely overkill

I've used the D7000 and its easily good enough for what you're after, but your info says your widest lens is a 50mm and that's a bit 'long' if you want the entire runner in shot and moreso if you'd like him/her in shot but using the camera in landscape position. If I was doing it I'd get much closer and use a wider lens, which will also make it easier on the flash as both the Yongnuo and any good Nikon can be zoomed so you're focusing more light onto the runner even though shooting a wider lens; you can also shoot the runner off centre and swivel the flash so it still points at them too, which is useful :)

Dave
 
Can have 4 of the yongnuo's for 1 of the brand! Got the 568 for my canon and simply does the job fine.
 
If you want to 'experiment' as per Dave's post, buy the Yongnuo YN568, it'll do HSS and maybe work.

But, from a sports perspective, I'd want to choose from a few frames, and a speedlight might not keep up.

In that case, you can add an external power pack to the flash, and hope it doesn't overheat.

Or bite the bullet and buy the Godox ad360II as per Stevens post, it'll cost similar to the Nikon SB900 and open up a world of possibilities.
 
Thanks for that Phil. I need to get to grips with the bog basics and try few things out over the coming weeks. Then I'll look towards buying a particular system.Wonder if there are any courses out there that may be worth splashing out on? Or maybe a 1 to 1
 
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