Film camera suggestions

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Ben
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Been borrowing my friends canon ae-1 program and I have the bug! I want one of my own just not sure what to get. There's a few things I'd like it to have, asa of 3200, shutter of 1/1000 and if possible all mechanical apart from the metering obviously. As for brand I don't really mind, canon fd would be good as I have a couple fd lenses but I don't really as long as lenses are cheap enough and easy to come by. I just don't want to spend loads of money, ideally max of £100 with a lens
 
Been borrowing my friends canon ae-1 program and I have the bug! I want one of my own just not sure what to get. There's a few things I'd like it to have, asa of 3200, shutter of 1/1000 and if possible all mechanical apart from the metering obviously. As for brand I don't really mind, canon fd would be good as I have a couple fd lenses but I don't really as long as lenses are cheap enough and easy to come by. I just don't want to spend loads of money, ideally max of £100 with a lens

There are loads of cameras that meet that description but from my own experience I can recommend an olympus om1. All mechanical other than the meter and I think it does ISO 3200 but worth checking. There are some great lenses available too but 50mm 1.8 is a good start.
 
Yep, OM1/OM1n or OM2/OM2n would be good choices. I have the OM1n and OM2n and they are great - you'll love the proper focusing screens too.
 
If you liked using the Canon AE1 Program then perhaps have a look at a Canon A1. Small (by today's SLR standards), compact, 5 modes including stopped-down AE, light, good looking, a nice clear exposure info display in the viewfinder, well-built and usually reliable. Plus they were popular, so there should be lots to choose from so finding a mint condition, fully-working one for the right money should be do-able without waiting months. They do need a battery to work, but the type they take is still made and readily available on the internet (unlike some of old film cameras that used a now obsolete mercury type battery, such as I believe the Olympus OM1) and they seem to last ages (I think I've used about 4 of them in my A1 and I've had it since 1980!), just remember to turn the little lever to the red 'L' lock position to turn everything off when not using the camera. Be careful if opening the battery compartment door, as the plastic seems to get a bit brittle and the door is spring assisted, so it opens with a spring and can bang into the lens mount box and break, so put your finger between the door and the side of the camera body to cushion it!

Whatever you buy, I'd give serious thought to buying from a reputable dealer/shop with a good guarantee (camera repairs can be expensive and even correcting what appears to be a minor fault such as a slow or intermittent shutter could cost ££s!). If considering an A1 make sure it hasn't got any signs of shutter squeak/cough, which Canon AE models can be prone to. It's often just a re-lubrication job to fix it, but to do it properly the camera has to be dismantled to a lesser or greater extent, so those with the squeak should be priced accordingly to allow for the repair bill! With most SLR cameras of that era, expect to have to replace the light seals and mirror buffer strip sooner or later, unless it's already been done.

You should be able to get a mint-ish A1 from a reputable, long-established shop for your budget of £100. Last time I looked, somewhere around £100 was about 'right' for a fully working 'Excellent+ to Mint -' condition one with 50mm FD 1.8 lens - the price of top-quality film cameras seems to have risen a bit lately (probably due to people such as yourself discovering the film side of photography?), so don't begrudge an extra £10 if it's a really nice one, chances are you'll get your money back if you look after it well and then decide to sell it. However, don't forget to haggle a bit - if you don't ask for money off you won't get it!. Lenses for future - have a look at the Canon FD 35-70 f4 zoom (the metal bodied one, not the plastic bodied replacement) and the FD 70-210. That should cover most situations. Hope this is useful, best of luck choosing, and welcome to the world of film. See you in the 'Talk Film and Conventional' section of this forum in due course! :)
 
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If you want full manual control, it doesn't matter about ISO as that's determined by the film you load then the aperture/shutter speed you choose as a result of your light meter.
Id like it to have 3200 as I have rolls of delta 3200
 
If you liked using the Canon AE1 Program then perhaps have a look at a Canon A1. Small (by today's SLR standards), compact, 5 modes including stopped-down AE, light, good looking, a nice clear exposure info display in the viewfinder, well-built and usually reliable. Plus they were popular, so there should be lots to choose from so finding a mint condition, fully-working one for the right money should be do-able without waiting months. They do need a battery to work, but the type they take is still made and readily available on the internet (unlike some of old film cameras that used a now obsolete mercury type battery, such as I believe the Olympus OM1) and they seem to last ages (I think I've used about 4 of them in my A1 and I've had it since 1980!), just remember to turn the little lever to the red 'L' lock position to turn everything off when not using the camera. Be careful if opening the battery compartment door, as the plastic seems to get a bit brittle and the door is spring assisted, so it opens with a spring and can bang into the lens mount box and break, so put your finger between the door and the side of the camera body to cushion it!

Whatever you buy, I'd give serious thought to buying from a reputable dealer/shop with a good guarantee (camera repairs can be expensive and even correcting what appears to be a minor fault such as a slow or intermittent shutter could cost ££s!). If considering an A1 make sure it hasn't got any signs of shutter squeak/cough, which Canon AE models can be prone to. It's often just a re-lubrication job to fix it, but to do it properly the camera has to be dismantled to a lesser or greater extent, so those with the squeak should be priced accordingly to allow for the repair bill! With most SLR cameras of that era, expect to have to replace the light seals and mirror buffer strip sooner or later, unless it's already been done.

You should be able to get a mint-ish A1 from a reputable, long-established shop for your budget of £100. Last time I looked, somewhere around £100 was about 'right' for a fully working 'Excellent+ to Mint -' condition one with 50mm FD 1.8 lens - the price of top-quality film cameras seems to have risen a bit lately (probably due to people such as yourself discovering the film side of photography?), so don't begrudge an extra £10 if it's a really nice one, chances are you'll get your money back if you look after it well and then decide to sell it. However, don't forget to haggle a bit - if you don't ask for money off you won't get it!. Lenses for future - have a look at the Canon FD 35-70 f4 zoom (the metal bodied one, not the plastic bodied replacement) and the FD 70-210. That should cover most situations. Hope this is useful, best of luck choosing, and welcome to the world of film. See you in the 'Talk Film and Conventional' section of this forum in due course! :)
Cheers for all the advice :). I was looking at the a1 actually as well, seem to a few about. What kind of places should I look for them then? The only places I've seen are Ebay (obviously) and camera world.
 
Id like it to have 3200 as I have rolls of delta 3200

My point was there's a conflict in what you're looking for. You say you want to shoot full manual which suggests you won't be relying on a built in light meter on the camera. As a result, with any (manual control) film camera it doesn't matter what film you load because it just fires the shutter at the speed you set and closes down the aperture to whatever you set. You would determine those settings by using an external light meter (set to measure for 3200iso film).

On the other hand, if you want a camera with a built in light meter then yes, you will either need one that measures up to iso3200 or choose the highest available and adjust your shutter speed or aperture to allow for the difference.
 
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My point was there's a conflict in what you're looking for. You say you want to shoot full manual which suggests you won't be relying on a built in light meter on the camera. As a result, with any (manual control) film camera it doesn't matter what film you load because it just fires the shutter at the speed you set and closes down the aperture to whatever you set. You would determine those settings by using an external light meter (set to measure for 3200iso film).

On the other hand, if you want a camera with a built in light meter then yes, you will either need one that measures up to iso3200 or choose the highest available and adjust your shutter speed or aperture to allow for the difference.
What I meant was a camera that has a light meter but has full manual controls. I've seen some canons and Olympus (om10 I think) that just have aperture priority
 
Or get a fully automatic modern film slr and use it in manual mode? I have a minolta dynax 9 that can be full automatic or fully manual. Then you have every combination of manual focus/manual exposure up to automatic everything point and shoot. Think it is DX coded up to iso 3200 too. Checked the user manual. It's DX coded up to iso 5000 and there is a manual code option if you can find iso 6400 film.

You also have mid roll rewind and multi exposure options.
 
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What I meant was a camera that has a light meter but has full manual controls. I've seen some canons and Olympus (om10 I think) that just have aperture priority

No problem. Like you say, the OM10 is an aperture priority camera unless you add the manual shutter speed adaptor. Personally (as above) I'd recommend an OM1 (full manual with light meter needle displayed in the viewfinder for under/overexposed) or an OM2 (aperture and full manual control with light meter displayed in the viewfinder. Neither of those read up to iso3200 though so you'd have to pick iso1600 then adjust the exposure compensation to -1 to account for 1 stop difference. Alternatively, leave the light meter at 1600 with 0 compensation and then change aperture or shutter speed by one stop to compensate.
 
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Cheers for all the advice :). I was looking at the a1 actually as well, seem to a few about. What kind of places should I look for them then? The only places I've seen are Ebay (obviously) and camera world.

I can't suggest any particular places to try as I'm not a regular buyer of used, high-quality 35mm cameras (the two I own I bought new - yes, I am that old!) but you could perhaps try some of the 'major' dealers that place full page adverts in magazines like Amateur Photographer? Unless someone can recommend somewhere, these days it's reasonably easy to check on an established shop/dealer's reputation if you do a google search on them for reviews, complaints, bad service, etc. However, I think people are probably more likely to moan if something goes wrong rather than shout about a deal being 'ok', 'fine' or 'as expected'... but repeated, well-balanced, bad feedback from several different people may well be worth paying attention to. I'm not certain, but I think you might get more protection when buying from a shop/dealer if paying via a credit card, perhaps someone else can confirm this?

There are plenty of A1s about, so it's probably just a matter of time before you find a nice one at the right money, so I'm sure you'll get fixed up fairly soon. (y)

Edit: I've just had a look at my A1 and it goes up to 12800 ASA (ISO), so you should be ok in that respect! :)
 
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Wycameras have quite a few.. Harrison Cameras also have second hand film ones but not such a large number. I'd think Ffordes are the most likely as they seem to have just about everything :)
 
The olympus om's are lovely but you do pay a premium!
I bought a very good condition OM1 with 50mm f1.8 lens for £60 from Harrisons last year, I wouldn't call that a premium tbh ;)

OP, Olympus OM's get my vote too.
 
I have an Nikon F70 body knocking about which I haven't used in an eternity only ever shooting one film through it......It came with a box of other goodies that I made more use of!

it has an array of auto settings however iirc they can be over ridden and the camera used in a manual form.

In all honesty I cannot remember much about how it functions.

Anyway, the main point is, if you do some homework online to see if the F70 would suit your requirements, and you would be happy to pay postage from France to a UK address ( about 12 quid at a guess), then Ill let you have the camera as a freebie

Obviously you would need to obtain a lens.

If you decide that it will work for you, then let me know so I can dig it out and check it over ( I wouldn't want to send you it if it is stuffed, not that there's any reason why it should be)
 
I can't suggest any particular places to try as I'm not a regular buyer of used, high-quality 35mm cameras (the two I own I bought new - yes, I am that old!) but you could perhaps try some of the 'major' dealers that place full page adverts in magazines like Amateur Photographer? Unless someone can recommend somewhere, these days it's reasonably easy to check on an established shop/dealer's reputation if you do a google search on them for reviews, complaints, bad service, etc. However, I think people are probably more likely to moan if something goes wrong rather than shout about a deal being 'ok', 'fine' or 'as expected'... but repeated, well-balanced, bad feedback from several different people may well be worth paying attention to. I'm not certain, but I think you might get more protection when buying from a shop/dealer if paying via a credit card, perhaps someone else can confirm this?

There are plenty of A1s about, so it's probably just a matter of time before you find a nice one at the right money, so I'm sure you'll get fixed up fairly soon. (y)

Edit: I've just had a look at my A1 and it goes up to 12800 ASA (ISO), so you should be ok in that respect! :)
Found an a1 for £75 with no lens, I already have 50mm 1.8 & 70-210 f4 though. One question I read that it doesn't tell you if the photo will be under or over exposed, it only says the shutter and aperture
 
I have an Nikon F70 body knocking about which I haven't used in an eternity only ever shooting one film through it......It came with a box of other goodies that I made more use of!

it has an array of auto settings however iirc they can be over ridden and the camera used in a manual form.

In all honesty I cannot remember much about how it functions.

Anyway, the main point is, if you do some homework online to see if the F70 would suit your requirements, and you would be happy to pay postage from France to a UK address ( about 12 quid at a guess), then Ill let you have the camera as a freebie

Obviously you would need to obtain a lens.

If you decide that it will work for you, then let me know so I can dig it out and check it over ( I wouldn't want to send you it if it is stuffed, not that there's any reason why it should be)
Cheers for the offer, don't want to sound ungrateful but Ideally want an older camera, I like the feel of winding the next frame on and the mechanical feel. Thanks for the thought anyway :)
 
Found an a1 for £75 with no lens, I already have 50mm 1.8 & 70-210 f4 though. One question I read that it doesn't tell you if the photo will be under or over exposed, it only says the shutter and aperture

You find that out when you get your film back from the lab! :LOL:

Joking aside, not sure what you mean by this? Do you mean when it's set to full manual? If so, the display will read the shutter speed you've set the camera to, and suggest the aperture you need to select to expose the photo 'correctly' (according to the camera's meter). It's then up to you to change the aperture to what the camera suggests, or ignore it to get a different exposure, that's what full manual is all about.

I find it's easy enough to work out if the shot will be over or under exposed (according to the meter) if using full manual. For example, if you've set the camera manually to 125 f22 and the display suggests 125 f8 then your shot will be underexposed, at 125 f1.8 it will be overexposed.

Furthermore, if the suggested aperture number displayed is flashing when using the full manual setting, then it means the metered exposure is outside the aperture range (either too high or too low) for the shutter speed selected. Eg if f32 is flashing at 1/60 then you need to increase the shutter speed, If it's flashing at f4 (or however wide the aperture is on the lens) at 1/60 then you need to decrease the shutter speed.

However, you will probably still get your fair share of under or over exposed photos, as a camera's meter isn't infallible.

Does that answer you question and do you follow it OK? Anyway, at least it's given my A1 a workout to refresh my memory on what it does! :)
 
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TBH £75 for an A1 with no lens to be a bit OTT, there's better choices to be had.
 
I think there seems to be something of an upward price trend for some Canon 35mm SLRs lately. Try and find a cheap mint EOS 3 for instance! That's probably the downside of the increase in popularity of film cameras, however, we might be getting Ektachrome back, so there are plus-points too. :) Aside from that, the OP already had some Canon FD lenses, so it probably makes sense for him to stick with a Canon body? Probably too much on a Canon T90 to potentially go wrong (?) so I didn't suggest that option, plus Ben wants an SLR with a traditional winder, which rules out the T90.

What model did you have in mind?

PS If he's anything like the rest of us and gets on well with film, he's probably going to end up with an Olympus OM too... and a Pentax, and a Nikon.... and then there's medium format, and.... you'll never guess what I've just seen! ;)
 
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Y
You find that out when you get your film back from the lab! :LOL:

Joking aside, not sure what you mean by this? Do you mean when it's set to full manual? If so, the display will read the shutter speed you've set the camera to, and suggest the aperture you need to select to expose the photo 'correctly' (according to the camera's meter). It's then up to you to change the aperture to what the camera suggests, or ignore it to get a different exposure, that's what full manual is all about.

I find it's easy enough to work out if the shot will be over or under exposed (according to the meter) if using full manual. For example, if you've set the camera manually to 125 f22 and the display suggests 125 f8 then your shot will be underexposed, at 125 f1.8 it will be overexposed.

Furthermore, if the suggested aperture number displayed is flashing when using the full manual setting, then it means the metered exposure is outside the aperture range (either too high or too low) for the shutter speed selected. Eg if f32 is flashing at 1/60 then you need to increase the shutter speed, If it's flashing at f4 (or however wide the aperture is on the lens) at 1/60 then you need to decrease the shutter speed.

However, you will probably still get your fair share of under or over exposed photos, as a camera's meter isn't infallible.

Does that answer you question and do you follow it OK? Anyway, at least it's given my A1 a workout to refresh my memory on what it does! :)
yea I get what you mean. I kind of meant that theoentax k1000 for example has the needle that moves depending on the exposure while I read the a1 doesn't have anything. But by the sounds of what your saying it sound very similar to the ae-1 program style of metering and that's been fine so far.
 
PS If he's anything like the rest of us and gets on well with film, he's probably going to end up with an Olympus OM too... and a Pentax, and a Nikon.... and then there's medium format, and.... you'll never guess what I've just seen! ;)
Tell me about it, it's my birthday in a month so I should really wait till then. My girlfriend keeps telling to stop looking at cameras! Good job I can borrow the ae-1 pretty much as long as I want!
 
As Nick said above, I think £70 for a Canon A1 body only sounds a bit expensive unless it's had a full service, new seals and a warranty.

Edit - Having just had a quick look on eBay that's probably what you are going to have to pay for one. The popularity of film really is pushing the price of kit upwards!
 
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Edit - Having just had a quick look on eBay that's probably what you are going to have to pay for one. The popularity of film really is pushing the price of kit upwards!

I know, it surprised me. Perhaps time for a break-out thread in F&C to discuss, bemoan or cheer (depending on your outlook) I think?! :)
 
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The Canon AT-1 is an all manual version of the AE-1. Comes with needle match metering, has 1/1000s and ISO 3200. It does need a 4SR44 battery to operate as the shutter is electronically timed, but I can state that the battery seems to last forever. (mine has had the same battery in it for 20 years and is somehow still going fine) Should be dirt cheap as they aren't as popular as the AE capable models like the A-1 etc.
 
The Canon AT-1 is an all manual version of the AE-1. Comes with needle match metering, has 1/1000s and ISO 3200. It does need a 4SR44 battery to operate as the shutter is electronically timed, but I can state that the battery seems to last forever. (mine has had the same battery in it for 20 years and is somehow still going fine) Should be dirt cheap as they aren't as popular as the AE capable models like the A-1 etc.
Had a look, like the look of them, not much price difference though. Think I'm just going to have to wait a little bit and pay the money
 
Chinon CM-3 (screw mount) or CM-4(K mount) are cheap if you can find them. Not exciting cameras but fully manual and you don't even need a battery if you go by sunny 16. I love the old Canon FD but the A series are full of electronics and if they fail... You're stuck. The plain AE1 has metered manual (you need to put the needle at the middle) which I prefer to the way the A1 does manual. There are tons of good choices with film SLRs from the 1970's and 80's. For example I recently discovered how nice the Yashica FR1 is.
 
OK so I like the Nikon FE(2) and FM(2), both of which are or can be fully manual.

I haven't checked on prices but if i was to look at paying £70 for a Canon A-1, then I'd seriously reconsider my choices and look into investing in the the FE/FM series, not least of all for their simplicity in use!
 
Chinon CM-3 (screw mount) or CM-4(K mount) are cheap if you can find them. Not exciting cameras but fully manual and you don't even need a battery if you go by sunny 16. I love the old Canon FD but the A series are full of electronics and if they fail... You're stuck. The plain AE1 has metered manual (you need to put the needle at the middle) which I prefer to the way the A1 does manual. There are tons of good choices with film SLRs from the 1970's and 80's. For example I recently discovered how nice the Yashica FR1 is.
Think should avoid the a's? The at-1 looked pretty good
 
No you shouldn't avoid them. They're fine cameras (I've collected all of them). Only had one or two that had problems. Some are very limited (AV-1) or fragile (AL-1). The A1 has the more involved electronics with all the exposure modes it supports.
 
No you shouldn't avoid them. They're fine cameras (I've collected all of them). Only had one or two that had problems. Some are very limited (AV-1) or fragile (AL-1). The A1 has the more involved electronics with all the exposure modes it supports.
Ah cool, I like the look of at-1
 
Bought an at-1, really like it :). Only bad thing is that it didn't come with an eye piece, are there any compatible cheap new ones?
 
Bought an at-1, really like it :). Only bad thing is that it didn't come with an eye piece, are there any compatible cheap new ones?
I guess you're talking about the rubber thingy right? All of the A bodies share the same I think. But you can use the camera without it pretty much OK.
 
I guess you're talking about the rubber thingy right? All of the A bodies share the same I think. But you can use the camera without it pretty much OK.
Yea the rubber thing lol. You can but my face pushes into it lol
 
Yea the rubber thing lol. You can but my face pushes into it lol
LOL yes that can be a problem. You might be able to find one locally. I could give you one but shipping from Belgium might be too expensive.
 
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