Film Developing in the UK

Sent 2 films from Iceland off to UKfilm lab inbetween Xmas and NY so we shall see what they bring. I've only just gone back to film and had shot a couple of AGFAs and dev/scan at Asda - but decided to push the boat out for the Iceland pics (if in fact I havnt completely screwed it up through not knowing what im doing) - 1.5 of the films is Iceland, the rest was other stuff so I've been eager to use it up on something midly interesting not just throwaway shots. My uncle gave me some out of date film on Boxing Day so that will be interesting to use. I've asked for them to quote me to send the negs back (wish I'd thought of sending an SAE like someone else said they did in this thread) as I don't plan on using UKFilm all the time as i prob wont shoot a lot and want to test out the film scanner my friend has lent me. From this thread I note UKfilm lab are long turn around, but i guess I've waited long enough so far (trip was in September).

{edit} ETA is now 18th January, they received today.
 
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As I'm just starting using film again, I didn't expect I'd use a high quality lab again soon (prob do asda, unless it was anything mega important), I wanted my negatives sent back, but I hadn't expecting it to cost as much as it does (I understand why it does because most people will care more than me etc), but really wishing I'd done the SAE route! Going to see what the scans bring back (it might be 2 films of utter dirge) and then decide if ill get the negatives back or see if I use them again and wait.
 
As I'm just starting using film again, I didn't expect I'd use a high quality lab again soon (prob do asda, unless it was anything mega important), I wanted my negatives sent back, but I hadn't expecting it to cost as much as it does (I understand why it does because most people will care more than me etc), but really wishing I'd done the SAE route! Going to see what the scans bring back (it might be 2 films of utter dirge) and then decide if ill get the negatives back or see if I use them again and wait.

Well unless someone can prove otherwise IMO a GOOD Adsa can dev film as good as a lab...the problem is how do you do a print and how do you put a shot on the net.....the best way is the darkroom for a print with a VG enlarging lens, but even then, some people say a VG inkjet printer is just as good.
So that leaves the problem, for many of us not into the darkroom use, on how to get the detail off the neg...well Asda scans are just reasonablly good and even the best flatbed Epson scanners are not the best for 35mm, so that leaves the labs who have better equipment and of course the better the scan the more it cost.
Well you are right in using Asda scans for the net and for a reasonable inkjet print at 10 X 8 and any winners use a lab.
 
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The scan I got from my local Asda weren't that great, which is why I'm not sure. I probably wouldn't use an ink jet printer print anything as I don't like their prints and the prints are not as durable as photographic paper (IMO). I have used Photobox for digital prints for many years so if I wanted a print would probably use them. (sure online photo printing is an entirely different thread all together so I won't go into that).

I don't really want to settle for Asda scans, but then I don't really want to pay £15 to get a film dev and scanned either. My friend lent me a neg scanner, and ive not tried it yet, its old but might be better than asda. just not sure it works with my computer. He lent me a different one but I just couldn't get it to work with my machine (which was surprisingly as it was an xp machine, closer to the age of the scanner than a new computer). I now have a windows 10 machine, so really need to fire it up and try it out (such a procrastinator, my old pc is sitting my the front door waiting for me to arrange with DELL to pick it up to recycle it, but ive not sorted that out yet and instead its rapidly becoming a handy table to put my keys and other junk on!)
 
Well all my shots posted are mostly Tesco (originally) and now Asda dev and scan and when you think of it, you have to downsize the Asda scan to 1000px to post.....so unless I crop my shot they all look alright to me, but then as this is a friendly forum no one will say if they are crap :D
 
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I would probably go to Asda to get my films developed and then self scan, but my Asda doesn't do it. Only Boots do and they're a rip off!

The scan I got from my local Asda weren't that great, which is why I'm not sure. I probably wouldn't use an ink jet printer print anything as I don't like their prints and the prints are not as durable as photographic paper (IMO). I have used Photobox for digital prints for many years so if I wanted a print would probably use them. (sure online photo printing is an entirely different thread all together so I won't go into that).

I don't really want to settle for Asda scans, but then I don't really want to pay £15 to get a film dev and scanned either. My friend lent me a neg scanner, and ive not tried it yet, its old but might be better than asda. just not sure it works with my computer. He lent me a different one but I just couldn't get it to work with my machine (which was surprisingly as it was an xp machine, closer to the age of the scanner than a new computer). I now have a windows 10 machine, so really need to fire it up and try it out (such a procrastinator, my old pc is sitting my the front door waiting for me to arrange with DELL to pick it up to recycle it, but ive not sorted that out yet and instead its rapidly becoming a handy table to put my keys and other junk on!)

If you are planning on shooting a lot of film you could look into Photoghost in Aberdeen. They offer a subscription service for £25 a month, and allows you to send up to ten rolls a month (c41 only) to them for dev and scan. Their turn around time is exceptional (a couple days usually, often the next day!) and they store your negs on site to save having to pay return postage each time. Their scans are great quality and are about 1800 px IIRC which is plenty for small prints and web use
 
Well all my shots posted are mostly Tesco (originally) and now Asda dev and scan and when you think of it, you have to downsize the Asda scan to 1000px to post.....so unless I crop my shot they all look alright to me, but then as this is a friendly forum no one will say if they are crap :D

I wouldnt want a scan thats only suitable for web use though.

I would probably go to Asda to get my films developed and then self scan, but my Asda doesn't do it. Only Boots do and they're a rip off!

If you are planning on shooting a lot of film you could look into Photoghost in Aberdeen. They offer a subscription service for £25 a month, and allows you to send up to ten rolls a month (c41 only) to them for dev and scan. Their turn around time is exceptional (a couple days usually, often the next day!) and they store your negs on site to save having to pay return postage each time. Their scans are great quality and are about 1800 px IIRC which is plenty for small prints and web use

Yeah i did ask at boots and was put off, esp that they seemed to want you to have prints as well. If this scanner fires up ok, I may do that. I've only borrowed it (long term though) but can just see how it goes. The Asda is quite near me, although its not somewhere I go often, unless I start shopping there (which i dont like doing). The Tesco used to have a lab, but that was ditched long ago, must be years ago now as it was the same mini lab I used when I worked at KlickPhoto point and that was 10 years....

Thanks for the info on Photoghost, at this point i don't think i'll be using that much to justify that, but I'll bear it in mind.
 
As I'm just starting using film again, I didn't expect I'd use a high quality lab again soon (prob do asda, unless it was anything mega important), I wanted my negatives sent back, but I hadn't expecting it to cost as much as it does (I understand why it does because most people will care more than me etc), but really wishing I'd done the SAE route! Going to see what the scans bring back (it might be 2 films of utter dirge) and then decide if ill get the negatives back or see if I use them again and wait.

You sent them to UK Film Lab, I think; you can leave the films there for a year if you plan to use them again. I agree their return postage is a bit pricey for just one or two films.

You didn't say whether you sent C41, E6 or black and white, and whether it's 35mm or 120. For 35mm C41 then Photo Express in Hull are fast, inexpensive at £4.50 per film (including a 50p per film discount for TP members) with good 2000 dpi scans (£1 return postage). If you have some C41 120 as well as 35mm, then filmdev is excellent, £5 per film and no return postage cost. If you've got BW or E6 then AG Photo Lab is cheapest with good scans; in the past they had a poor rep for slow turnaround and poor customer service, but there are suggestions things have improved. Club35 is only a bit more expensive and OK.
 
I wouldnt want a scan thats only suitable for web use though.

Well I've used Asda scans for inkjet A4 print and they look OK to 5 billion Joe public but not much use for exhibition shots unless that were action where the subject was more important than the quality OR viewed by discerning photographers.
 
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Well I've used Asda scans for inkjet A4 print and they look OK to 5 billion Joe public but not much use for exhibition shots unless that were action where the subject was more important than the quality OR viewed by discerning photographers.

I agree it would probably depend on the photo on to how it looked printed with an asda scan yeah. I def wouldn't be printing anything on an ink jet/sub dye, I'm no expert (or discerning) at all, I just prefer photographic paper if I have something I want to print out to use/frame/whatever. They are very convenient, but I just don't like them.

You sent them to UK Film Lab, I think; you can leave the films there for a year if you plan to use them again. I agree their return postage is a bit pricey for just one or two films.

You didn't say whether you sent C41, E6 or black and white, and whether it's 35mm or 120. For 35mm C41 then Photo Express in Hull are fast, inexpensive at £4.50 per film (including a 50p per film discount for TP members) with good 2000 dpi scans (£1 return postage). If you have some C41 120 as well as 35mm, then filmdev is excellent, £5 per film and no return postage cost. If you've got BW or E6 then AG Photo Lab is cheapest with good scans; in the past they had a poor rep for slow turnaround and poor customer service, but there are suggestions things have improved. Club35 is only a bit more expensive and OK.

Yeah, its UKFilm and 35mm - yeah I just wasn't sure I'd use them again to make the postage to something worth while. I didn't realise they send them in a bigger than a4 flat envelope thing, I'd have been happy with a jiffy bag - live and learn! I did have a good read through this thread to try and decide who to use, so maybe I aimed a bit high for the kind of usage etc I'm going to be doing with 35mm. The asda scans just put me right off and I went a bit opposite end of the scale. Im not particularly bothered about turn around really, I don't think anyway.
 
Just a bit of feedback on UKFilm - I got an email today to say my scans are ready so that's Monday -Friday which isn't bad. I can't look at them at the moment as I'm at work.... annoying!
 
That's pretty good going, usually I end up waiting like two weeks unless I pay extra for their express service.

How are you sending your film off? 35mm and 120 rolls can get away with a 95p large letter stamp; they're slightly oversized for thickness of a large letter when you put them in a jiffy bag, but it's only 2mm or so and I've never had an issue.
 
having looked at my pics - i dont think i'm worthy of paying so much for the dev and scanning, bah ha ha...

yeah im surprised, perhaps a downtime week. i remember i sent my passport off around this time of year and got it back in a week....

i sent it in a jiffy bag yeah, but went to PO so i went as small packet
 
having looked at my pics - i dont think i'm worthy of paying so much for the dev and scanning, bah ha ha...

yeah im surprised, perhaps a downtime week. i remember i sent my passport off around this time of year and got it back in a week....

i sent it in a jiffy bag yeah, but went to PO so i went as small packet

Well post a few here and ask for opinions...go on I dare you....erm reminds me of dan dare the comic in the old days ;)
 
I don't know what i will clutter up this thread with my dirge, but i may start a seperate topic. but prob not tonight. its time to start my dinner and then try and finish 'making a murderer'!

the route of the problem is most probably usingthe 'auto' function (cos i dont know what im doing) and an less modern light meter as its a canon a1.

but as i say, i dont want to waffle on in this thread when its meant to be about developing :) so stay tuned.

apart from paying for my own dirge - had a good experience with UKFilm overall.
 
Well a few here (inc me) have a Canon A1 and would be glad to give any advice if you are having problems.
 
Hi guys, have a few rolls of B&W 35mm film which i want to develop and scan only.

Anyone had experience with http://www.photofilmprocessing.co.uk/ ? They seem to have the highest resolution scans at the cheapest prices, when compared to UK Film Labs, AG and Peak.

Any other places worth trying?

First rolls being sent of, so very nervous about the whole process and want good quality scans!
 
Developing is one thing (replenishment, cleanliness, temperature, handling), but scanning is another. I suspect that run-of-the-mill scans are done on automated equipment (Frontier?). If this is so (or if any human intervention is sloppily done) then they're likely to have faults such as blown highlights, and / or weak or blocked-up blacks - ie there may be detail on the film that the scan hasn't rendered. At least that's what happened to me during my one brief adventure. But give it a go and report back - a pool of knowledge might be useful.
 
Hi guys, have a few rolls of B&W 35mm film which i want to develop and scan only.

Anyone had experience with http://www.photofilmprocessing.co.uk/ ? They seem to have the highest resolution scans at the cheapest prices, when compared to UK Film Labs, AG and Peak.

Any other places worth trying?

First rolls being sent of, so very nervous about the whole process and want good quality scans!

Photofilmprocessing.co.uk are definitely priced very competitively, especially as they seem to offer free return postage, but I'm guessing that they're relying on automated scans to get to that price point. Perhaps you could contact them to check?

Scanning is about a lot more than resolution and the better labs should adjust the scans on a frame-by-frame basis to account for differences in exposure, negative density, contrast, colour balance (not relevant for black and white), etc.

Personally, I either use UKFL—who are very good—or do everything myself at home.
 
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Hi guys, have a few rolls of B&W 35mm film which i want to develop and scan only.

Anyone had experience with http://www.photofilmprocessing.co.uk/ ? They seem to have the highest resolution scans at the cheapest prices, when compared to UK Film Labs, AG and Peak.

Any other places worth trying?

I'd not seen that one... yes I have, it's Photo Hippo, which I think used to be the Fuji lab. Their scans are 3637*2433, which as you say is one of the better scans (2400 dpi). Most labs offer 1200 dpi for their small scans, which gives you around a 2Mp image; generally unsatisfactory.

If you have C41 then Photo Express in Hull and filmdev are worth considering.

The nifty price estimator no longer has the Fuji lab in it; I took it out when they changed and I had not heard of anyone using Photo Hippo. If you had 3 rolls to process and scan, Photo Hippo would charge you £25.50 and you'd have to pay postage there. If you tried AG-Photolab (part of AG Photographic), they would charge £20.45 for small scans, or £26.45 for a medium scan. However, they provide a freepost label, so it ends up even for the medium versus Hippo's small. AG define a small scan as 4 mb and a medium as 18 mb; these sizes are the curious "open in Photoshop" measure, and I think represent approximately what an un-compressed TIFF would take, so divide by 3 (for 8 bits each of RGB) to get megapixels. The medium scan would not be far off the Hippo scan. It is worth pointing out that AG did have a reputation for a while for rather slow service, but I've heard they've improved and I've been looking for a chance to use them again myself.

Anyway, it looks like the Photo Hippo service is pretty good value for money. If you use them, do please let us know how you get on, and if possible, share some results? Thanks.
 
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I'd not seen that one... yes I have, it's Photo Hippo, which I think used to be the Fuji lab. Their scans are 3637*2433, which as you say is one of the better scans (2400 dpi). Most labs offer 1200 dpi for their small scans, which gives you around a 2Mp image; generally unsatisfactory.

Anyway, it looks like the Photo Hippo service is pretty good value for money. If you use them, do please let us know how you get on, and if possible, share some results? Thanks.


I've sent one roll to UK Film Labs (£21 + postage) and one roll to Photo Hippo Ltd (£15 + postage). Both at the largest scans possible, both are the same resolution. Will report back...
 
I've sent one roll to UK Film Labs (£21 + postage) and one roll to Photo Hippo Ltd (£15 + postage). Both at the largest scans possible, both are the same resolution. Will report back...

Just an update on this, I received the negs and scans from Photo Hippo Ltd yesterday in the post (only checked the letter box this morning so must have come late). haven't had a chance to study them yet. 6 day turn around is pretty decent.

UK Film have stated I will have my negs and scans before 2nd Feb (if payment was made when received)
 
120 and 35mm films are just a tad over the thickness limit for large letter if you put them in a jiffy bag. I think the limit is 25mm if my memory is right. If you take it to the post office they charge you £3.30 for a parcel as it doesn't quite go through their gauge, but if you put the film in a jiffy bag and stick a 95p "large letter" stamp on it and stick it in the post box, it arrives no problem :) I sent two 120 rolls and a 35mm roll off the other day, all together in a jiffy bag with a 95p stamp on and had no problems, and it arrived at the lab the next day :D Or if you prefer second class I think it's 74p for a large letter
...My worry is that if I don't put the full postage on and some jobsworth tests it, they might get lost, or seriously delayed, or turn up at the other end with some sort of penalty charge on them and not be accepted...

Just been off the phone from Filmdev; I posted 2 films off Wednesday of last week in a plastic envelope similar to (but possibly smaller than) those Brian linked to somewhere above. I had already spoken to them on Monday and Wednesday this week; they said my films had not arrived; the only previous time this had happened, the problem was insufficient postage, and Royal Fail had waited until the Friday to inform them. Sure enough, they got the films today with £3 postage due, which Filmdev have paid on my behalf (and collected from me, of course). So in the end this cost me £3.95 compared with £3.30 for paying it properly. OTOH I've had a couple go through at the large letter rate, so I'm ahead. But a delay of a week is a big penalty.

I guess you pays your money and takes your choice. I think I posted this one in the big box outside RM delivery centre here; I won't be doing that again!
 
....AG define a small scan as 4 mb and a medium as 18 mb; these sizes are the curious "open in Photoshop" measure, and I think represent approximately what an un-compressed TIFF would take, so divide by 3 (for 8 bits each of RGB) to get megapixels. The medium scan would not be far off the Hippo scan. It is worth pointing out that AG did have a reputation for a while for rather slow service, but I've heard they've improved and I've been looking for a chance to use them again myself.

Anyway, it looks like the Photo Hippo service is pretty good value for money. If you use them, do please let us know how you get on, and if possible, share some results? Thanks.

Hi Chris,

We have had a lot of issues with customers getting to grips with the nature of a JPEG file format. But I don't think the "open in photoshop" measure is curious because 18mb (for the med. scan for example) is the amount of DATA in the file. That's what the customer is paying for, data from the film original.

The nature of the JPEG format is that it collapses down to a much smaller size when closed (thus making it much more convenient for handling) - What we say is, when assessing what can be done with the file, the closed size is completely irrelevant because it does not represent the amount of data in the file.

If someone takes an 18mb JPEG file (approx 1mb closed, say) and then save it as an uncompressed TIFF, they'll notice it magically becomes 18mb when closed, space on disk, and at all times. Because that's the amount of data in the file and TIFF does not offer the convenience of collapsing down.

(although, of course, TIFF does offer the convenience of not compressing the file and loosing some data if you repeatedly save it - hence why it's best to save-as from JPEG into TIFF or PSD or some other non-lossy format if you intend to work on a file)

When I compare scans, the only thing I am interested in is the amount of DATA in the file - this is how we compare across the board with all our competitors.

I know you realise all this Chris - but I never like to miss an opportunity to explain it for anyone who is confused about it.

Matt.
 
Hi Chris,

We have had a lot of issues with customers getting to grips with the nature of a JPEG file format. But I don't think the "open in photoshop" measure is curious because 18mb (for the med. scan for example) is the amount of DATA in the file. That's what the customer is paying for, data from the film original.

The nature of the JPEG format is that it collapses down to a much smaller size when closed (thus making it much more convenient for handling) - What we say is, when assessing what can be done with the file, the closed size is completely irrelevant because it does not represent the amount of data in the file.

If someone takes an 18mb JPEG file (approx 1mb closed, say) and then save it as an uncompressed TIFF, they'll notice it magically becomes 18mb when closed, space on disk, and at all times. Because that's the amount of data in the file and TIFF does not offer the convenience of collapsing down.

(although, of course, TIFF does offer the convenience of not compressing the file and loosing some data if you repeatedly save it - hence why it's best to save-as from JPEG into TIFF or PSD or some other non-lossy format if you intend to work on a file)

When I compare scans, the only thing I am interested in is the amount of DATA in the file - this is how we compare across the board with all our competitors.

I know you realise all this Chris - but I never like to miss an opportunity to explain it for anyone who is confused about it.

Matt.

To be fair though, what I really want to know is how big the scan is along the longest side, that'll tell me how big I can print it. I realise there is more to a scan than its dimensions but I really do expect a high quality low compression jpeg from any of the decent labs. If some one were offering cheap big scans but with crappy quality the file size would be massive so no I don't think uncompressed size is a great metric.
 
To be fair though, what I really want to know is how big the scan is along the longest side, that'll tell me how big I can print it. I realise there is more to a scan than its dimensions but I really do expect a high quality low compression jpeg from any of the decent labs. If some one were offering cheap big scans but with crappy quality the file size would be massive so no I don't think uncompressed size is a great metric.

Sure, I'm not saying that the amount of data in the file is the only factor that is going to dictate the image quality - but it is a critical factor. As you rightly point out, actual image quality is all important and not necessarily down to file size. I would advocate two questions - ie. 1. how much data is there in the file? and 2. what is the image quality actually like.

Obviously, you can have a 100mb file from a 10 year old flatbed and a 100mb file from a Hasselblad Flextight, clearly, one will be a better quality scan than the other.

What I am saying is:

1. Look at how the scan is being made, and by whom or what;
2. Then look at the file size to see how much data you have.

File size is really the industry standard for us and many other photo processing labs and it's what we find customers really what to know - how much data they get for their money.
 
Sure, I'm not saying that the amount of data in the file is the only factor that is going to dictate the image quality - but it is a critical factor. As you rightly point out, actual image quality is all important and not necessarily down to file size. I would advocate two questions - ie. 1. how much data is there in the file? and 2. what is the image quality actually like.

Obviously, you can have a 100mb file from a 10 year old flatbed and a 100mb file from a Hasselblad Flextight, clearly, one will be a better quality scan than the other.

What I am saying is:

1. Look at how the scan is being made, and by whom or what;
2. Then look at the file size to see how much data you have.

File size is really the industry standard for us and many other photo processing labs and it's what we find customers really what to know - how much data they get for their money.

To be fair to you guys, you at least publish the dimensions of your scans, is that new? I don't remember seeing it before. In the past I've spent time looking round and giving up in annoyance at being told what mb size my files will be but not the long dimension, mb size is largely irrelevant, as we've discussed, if the scanning resolution isn't published.
 
Like Matt, we find discussing resolution to be problematic. It would seem there are several ways to approach resolution and individuals are happiest dealing with resolution through their preferred method. This preference, in terms of film, is usually established by an individual's most common way to digitise film. Those who have used a flat bed or film scanner will prefer a resolution in ppi (2400ppi @ 1:1 or 4800ppi @ 1:1 for example), those from a digital background may prefer a size megapixels.

In reality, both roads lead to Ankh-Morpork (Moving Pictures - Terry Pratchett).

The two main significant factors of film scanning are (i) Quality of the scanner hardware (ii) Pixel density of the resulting scan. As mentioned by steveo_mgc, high pixel density files full of soft image don't represent a quality scan. A lab using Flextight scanners or minilabs to produce scans should have the hardware bit covered.


JPEG files add another layer of confusion to the mix. Matt rightly stated that 'open in Photoshop' is standard practice, due to Photoshop treating any open document as an uncompressed format. This applies not just for scans from film, but any digital image saved as a JPEG. Let's take a look at two frames from a 35mm film scanned at the same resolution and then saved as both a JPEG and a TIF.


frametable.png


Notice that both TIF files have the same 'file size' but the two JPEG files vary in 'file size'. This is due to JPEG compression being applied based on the level of complex detail within the frame. A clear blue sky has much less detail than a corn field, so the JPEG engine can apply more compression as there is less detail to resolve. TIF files are an uncompressed format, so scans at the same resolution will have the same 'file size' regardless of what the subject is.

Why did I used this resolution as an example? Well 1800 pixels x 1200 pixels equates to a 6"x4" scan. How did I arrive at this figure? Using the industry standard print resolution of 300dpi. Resolution in this context, be it 300dpi or 2400ppi (or whatever) is simply a figure used to divide the total number of pixels in an image into handy 'chunks'. It's probably best to look at resolution as if it were an equation.


Let's go with 300dpi as this will be what a printer would use: 1800 pixels ÷ 300dpi = 6 (or 6 inches) 1200 pixels ÷ 300dpi = 4 (or 4 inches).


Scans from a minilab like a Fujifilm Frontier are produced to their equivalent standard photographic print size. This is a limitation on the sizes available, but it does make sense that a scan at 18x12 inches should match the print size of 18x12 inches. Here is a table from our website that covers pixel density at standard photographic scan sizes for 35mm (and how this translates to a print size @ 300dpi).



scansize.png


I hope this has gone some way towards clearing up scan sizes, file sizes, opening in Photoshop ...etc...

Kind regards,


Chris.
 
Hi Chris, Ben etc....could you confirm what I have been saying for years that a 1800 X 1200px low scan from a Fuji Frontier gives the same detail (detail only) as the best Epson flatbed scanner i.e. 700, 750.
Also in my experience a low scan of 1800 X 1200px from a Fuji Frontier can produce decent A4 prints so why everyone says only 6X4 is a puzzle e.g.
A quick scan of a print showing a faulty lens problem.... the sharpness has suffered slightly and produced a Magenta cast in scanning the print, but it didn't matter as I wanted to show the blurr either side of the centre
 
Hi excalibur2,

Flatbeds have two significant issues when it comes to producing high quality scans from film.
  1. The glass platen. As with photographing through a window, glass softens the clarity of the negative and can produce a colour cast.
  2. The motion of the scan head. A moving scan head creates increased vibration which has a negative impact on the resolving power of the scanner.
A Frontier minilab or Flextight scanner does not suffer from these issues.

Due to these factors, it is likely that a 'low' scan from a Frontier (1800 x 1200px) could be sharper and more accurately resolved than a much larger scan from a flatbed. This in essence is the same point steveo_mcg was making about "big scans but with crappy quality".

6x4 inch prints from a file containing 1800 x 1200px is a 1:1 ratio when dpi is 300 (standard print dpi). Of course, with a Frontier or Flextight scan being so sharp, you could interpolate this up to a larger print size and still find it acceptable. Stating 6x4 as a print size for files containing 1800x1200px is in the end just a statement. Depending on the subject I'd be happy to print the file larger than 6x4 inches.


Chris.
 
Thanks to Chris at @ccimaging, I've updated their prices on the nifty price estimator, which were way out of date. It's very helpful to be notified when there are errors, or prices change!

Some time I must go through and try to work out whether the small and medium scan sizes are reasonably consistent. This obviously potentially affects prices. It's particularly dodgy for 120, given the different formats available. I've based this on 6*6, I think, as this is what currently interests me.
 
Seems simple to me - I instinctively know how big 1600x1200 is (for example), but "20mb of uncompressed data" means nothing to me without having to do some maths, and even then I have to know how many bits-per-pixel the file is. Just supply all three pieces of information (pixel dimensions, bpp, uncompressed file size) and everybody is happy.
 
The trouble is, all the vendors tend to do it differently. Just pixel dimensions would be fine for me!
 
The trouble is, all the vendors tend to do it differently. Just pixel dimensions would be fine for me!

dimensions, bpp, and size are basically like the exposure triangle. If you know two, you can work out the other. (given that you already know the aspect ratio from the original neg, that is).

I have no idea why some companies only give the size in megs. I'm not sure who those people are who instinctively understand the absolute quality of a scan from a byte count. When I was looking for someone to dev/scan my first ever roll of 120, I skipped over any of them that just gave me a figure in MB until I found one giving me what I needed to know, given it was easier to do that than work it out.
 
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