Filters for Landscape

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Jake
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I'm going on holiday to Rhodes in a month, and want to do some landcapes while I'm away, I'm quite an amateur really though :shrug:

I have a Canon 40d with 18-55mm kit lens & 50mm prime.
Also got a tripod and remote shutter.

I'm after a filter - either polarising or ND, and am wondering what type to buy, and what brand I should buy?

Also, any hints and tips for landscape photography - I know I could do with a wide angle lens, but I can't afford one at the moment.

Thanks in advance :)

Jake
 
A CPL will help with nice blue skies and fluffy white skies and cut down reflection on water.

ND grads will help when the sky is much much brighter than the foreground.

For the lenses you've got if you want to dip a toe into filters and see if they're going to suit you I'd buy the Hitech 85mm series which fit a Cokin P series filter holder. You'll need a filter holder, adaptor rings for your lenses (I may be wrong but I seem to remember 58mm) and the filters themselves. You can get a Circular Polariser (CPL) which will fit in the P series filter holder and will allow you to use both ND grads and the CPL together, ideal for cutting reflection on foreground water whilst holding back a bright cloudy sky.

As for tips for landscapes, don't worry too much about not having a wide angle at this stage, you can shoot some really nice landscapes at longer focal lengths if you put some thought into it. Check your foreground, often you'll see an amazing vista but without a foreground it can look a bit boring. Basic composition rules will help, put your horizon a third in from the top or bottom rather than bang in the middle.

Have a good trip.
 
The only problem with the kit lens is that barrel rotates during autofocus. I found then I couldn't reposition the ND Grad or Polariser without accidentally turning the barrel therefore losing focus. (more so with the grads than polariser to be honest)

A basic ND filter where orientation doesn't matter would be ok of course.
 
The only problem with the kit lens is that barrel rotates during autofocus. I found then I couldn't reposition the ND Grad or Polariser without accidentally turning the barrel therefore losing focus. (more so with the grads than polariser to be honest)

A basic ND filter where orientation doesn't matter would be ok of course.

I use manual focus, would this still be a problem?

A CPL will help with nice blue skies and fluffy white skies and cut down reflection on water.

ND grads will help when the sky is much much brighter than the foreground.

For the lenses you've got if you want to dip a toe into filters and see if they're going to suit you I'd buy the Hitech 85mm series which fit a Cokin P series filter holder. You'll need a filter holder, adaptor rings for your lenses (I may be wrong but I seem to remember 58mm) and the filters themselves. You can get a Circular Polariser (CPL) which will fit in the P series filter holder and will allow you to use both ND grads and the CPL together, ideal for cutting reflection on foreground water whilst holding back a bright cloudy sky.

As for tips for landscapes, don't worry too much about not having a wide angle at this stage, you can shoot some really nice landscapes at longer focal lengths if you put some thought into it. Check your foreground, often you'll see an amazing vista but without a foreground it can look a bit boring. Basic composition rules will help, put your horizon a third in from the top or bottom rather than bang in the middle.

Have a good trip.

Thanks for the detailed response, I'll have a look into those when I get home from work tonight and let you know what I think.
I've done some basic landscapes but really want to improve further, and this trip seems like a good time to start.
Thanks
 
I use manual focus, would this still be a problem?


Thanks

Should be less of a problem. As long you can position the filter, focus (in your preferred sequence) then ensure it hasn't affected the filter operation it probably will be a tad easier.

To be fair I was using a 77mm-58mm Stepup ring, coupled with the Lee Wide Angle adapter so there was quite a bit of leverage of the side which caused the barrel to rotate without any effort. A more specific filter size should in theory reduce the ease of rotating it accidentally but can't say it would negate it entirely.
 
If it was me I would get a polarising filter first, as you can (although I don't) blend exposures to imitate a grad whereas you can not really mimic the effects of a polariser in photoshop (such as removing reflections etc).

I would also buy the largest size (say 77mm) and get step up rings so you can use the one filter on any lenses you have. I can't recommend a make however as I have only used a Hoya, which is fine for me.
 
If it was me I would get a polarising filter first, as you can (although I don't) blend exposures to imitate a grad whereas you can not really mimic the effects of a polariser in photoshop (such as removing reflections etc).

I would also buy the largest size (say 77mm) and get step up rings so you can use the one filter on any lenses you have. I can't recommend a make however as I have only used a Hoya, which is fine for me.

I will have a look at that, can pick up a Hoya CPF for £65 in a 77mm size, or the Jessops version is £48.

I don't even know the sizes for my lenses as it is, I'm not too experienced when it comes to this sort of thing yet!

Thanks for your help
 
Thanks, that may be why I have not experienced the cast.

Also @Jake, a friend bought the Jessops polariser and has not had any issues with it. You can also use a poloriser as a slight ND (not graduated ND) filter as you lose a stop of light with it, making exposures slightly longer.

As for filter thread sizes they are usually on the lens or you will be find out by doing a google search generally. I just wish someone suggested I bought the largest filter and got step up rings when I started as I ended up buying one polariser which i can now only use on 1 or 2 lenses.
 
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