First attempt kids

[Iren]

Edit:
New photo with focus on the closest eye, using Av mode, Auto ISO and 1/250 shutter speed
Photos look much better than in portrait mode, but harsh sunlight and no light from other side is not helping and i can see i wont be able to get away without post processing, but hopefully moving in the right direction?!



I've just started to learn about my camera and play with portrait lens
No post processing
Any comments welcome

 

[Yardbent]

I respect your 'No edits'...but I find it's a good way to learn, from the input of other members

i cropped the second picture to the point where the black hose intercepts the base line - lightened shadows a little - slight sharpen - looks more 'concentrated'...IMHO..

 

[Iren]

I respect your 'No edits'...but I find it's a good way to learn, from the input of other members

i cropped the second picture to the point where the black hose intercepts the base line - lightened shadows a little - slight sharpen - looks more 'concentrated'...IMHO..

I will change that, ive set this preference when registered, but i want people to edit so i can see other views
Can i see your version?

 

[Yardbent]

I will change that, ive set this preference when registered, but i want people to edit so i can see other views
Can i see your version?

please bear in mind I'm a complete begineer at editing - usually I just crop - play with the lighting and sharpen after a resize....
PS - can you alter the WB setting on your camera - i think WB = cloudy may help the colours

 

[Iren]

please bear in mind I'm a complete begineer at editing - usually I just crop - play with the lighting and sharpen after a resize....
PS - can you alter the WB setting on your camera - i think WB = cloudy may help the colours

Thanks! Its probably personal taste, but the cropped version does not work for me, like something is missing or not cropped enough

Which programm do you use for photo processing? I need to sort out my PC first, before i can do anything with the images

I'll try cloudy setting, this was shot in Portrait mode (soft)

 

[Phil V]

Thanks! Its probably personal taste, but the cropped version does not work for me, like something is missing or not cropped enough

Which programm do you use for photo processing? I need to sort out my PC first, before i can do anything with the images

I'll try cloudy setting, this was shot in Portrait mode (soft)

I have to ask what is Portrait mode (soft)?

Are you shooting Raw or JPEG, do you intend to make processing part of your workflow?

 

[Phil V]

As far as critique goes, for an early attempt, they're in the right direction.

But, none of them are critically sharp where they should be, the framing on all bar the last has issues. The light is nice and flat and easy, but brings nothing attractive.

1. Distracting background (even with a shallow DoF you need to avoid brightly coloured blocks of colour and the mat and toy are also competing for attention.

2. There's nothing to grab attention, the background envelops the subject. If you are planning to keep that framing you'll have to clone the hose. Even with that lens wide open you'll not get separation with a subject that close to the BG.

3. There's too much headroom whilst it's cut off in the wrong place, but the lack of sharpness kills it IMHO.

4. The best of the bunch, but the lack of sharpness is a shame, it's the one of them that a tweak of PP would improve. That said, it'd be a decent 'snap' rather than a 'photograph' if it was perfect.

 

[Iren]

I have to ask what is Portrait mode (soft)?

Are you shooting Raw or JPEG, do you intend to make processing part of your workflow?

I do both RAW and JPEG and yes, i plan to process photos afterwards, just need to sort out my laptop first

Portrait soft is when i choose SCN mode, then Portrait and within that change STD setting into Soft, but leave light/scene-based shots as standard

 

[Phil V]

I do both RAW and JPEG and yes, i plan to process photos afterwards, just need to sort out my laptop first

Portrait soft is when i choose SCN mode, then Portrait and within that change STD setting into Soft, but leave light/scene-based shots as standard

You need to get away from the SCN modes, they'll make decisions you won't necessarily agree with. The processing choices are also something you need to take control of. I leave my JPEGS in Faithful mode so that I can see a neutral preview but none of that effects the RAW anyway.

 

[Yardbent]

............Which programm do you use for photo processing?......

nothing fancy

Photoshop Elements [v7]

 

[Phil V]

Which programm do you use for photo processing? I need to sort out my PC first, before i can do anything with the images

Bearing in mind your ambitions, I can't recommend the Adobe 'Photographers Subscription' of Lightroom and Photoshop highly enough, for less than a tenner a month it's the best money you will spend.

 

[big soft moose]

You need to get away from the SCN modes, they'll make decisions you won't necessarily agree with. The processing choices are also something you need to take control of. I leave my JPEGS in Faithful mode so that I can see a neutral preview but none of that effects the RAW anyway.

That - my jpegs are in neutral mode which is much the same , but as phil says given that you want to do this proffesionally focus on the Raw and process it in lightroom (or similar) .

the only proviso to the wonders of the adobe CC photographers subscription is making sure your computer is up to spec to run them properly - my laptop is a bit lacking in RAM which is why I've been using Lightzone (freeware) since upgrading to a camera my LR disc dosnt support, and just photoshop elements on the laptop for doing things on the move

 

[big soft moose]

also in terms of photo crit in addition to what phil said you've got an issue with the faces being dark - you need a reflector and/or a flashgun for fill

 

[Iren]

As far as critique goes, for an early attempt, they're in the right direction.

But, none of them are critically sharp where they should be, the framing on all bar the last has issues. The light is nice and flat and easy, but brings nothing attractive.

1. Distracting background (even with a shallow DoF you need to avoid brightly coloured blocks of colour and the mat and toy are also competing for attention.

2. There's nothing to grab attention, the background envelops the subject. If you are planning to keep that framing you'll have to clone the hose. Even with that lens wide open you'll not get separation with a subject that close to the BG.

3. There's too much headroom whilst it's cut off in the wrong place, but the lack of sharpness kills it IMHO.

4. The best of the bunch, but the lack of sharpness is a shame, it's the one of them that a tweak of PP would improve. That said, it'd be a decent 'snap' rather than a 'photograph' if it was perfect.

Thanks for the constructive criticism Phil!
I'll take it all on board!
In regards the sharpness and quality it might be to do something with the way i have uploaded them!?
I used in camera wi-fi to transfer them to my phone and uploaded on the website from the phone.
My laptop is not really up to speed, so thats soneting i need to sort out sooner than later.

 

[Iren]

You need to get away from the SCN modes, they'll make decisions you won't necessarily agree with. The processing choices are also something you need to take control of. I leave my JPEGS in Faithful mode so that I can see a neutral preview but none of that effects the RAW anyway.

I thought i'll start with SCN and then move to custom options...
Ok, i must admit i have no idea what is faihful mode and how to set it, so some googling for me for this evening

 

[Iren]

also in terms of photo crit in addition to what phil said you've got an issue with the faces being dark - you need a reflector and/or a flashgun for fill

Cant i "lighten up" the faces in photoshop?
If i understand correctly, you have to hold reflector close to the object/person? I have no idea hot to do that next to a constantly moving toddler and i thought i could get away with not having flash in such bright day, is there any other way i csn get them lighter?

 

[juggler]

I thought i'll start with SCN and then move to custom options...
Ok, i must admit i have no idea what is faihful mode and how to set it, so some googling for me for this evening

Start by reading up on the 'exposure triangle'. Istr that @Pookeyhead wrote an article about exposure.

 

[Iren]

That - my jpegs are in neutral mode which is much the same , but as phil says given that you want to do this proffesionally focus on the Raw and process it in lightroom (or similar) .

the only proviso to the wonders of the adobe CC photographers subscription is making sure your computer is up to spec to run them properly - my laptop is a bit lacking in RAM which is why I've been using Lightzone (freeware) since upgrading to a camera my LR disc dosnt support, and just photoshop elements on the laptop for doing things on the move

Yesterday i was reading about RAW vs JPEGs and understand now that i wont be able to avoid it
It was on my list to get photoshop and lightroom (and to learn how to use them of course), but my laptop is quite old and slow. Someone is looking into it for me, but probably that might be another thing i need to buy :/

 

[juggler]

Cant i "lighten up" the faces in photoshop?
If i understand correctly, you have to hold reflector close to the object/person? I have no idea hot to do that next to a constantly moving toddler and i thought i could get away with not having flash in such bright day, is there any other way i csn get them lighter?

You can but don't rely on it. If extra light isn't an option at long range then make sure you use spot metering and expose for the skin tones.

 

[Phil V]

I thought i'll start with SCN and then move to custom options...
Ok, i must admit i have no idea what is faihful mode and how to set it, so some googling for me for this evening

There's no other way of putting this.
Just don't!
You can't learn from the scene modes, they're hidden on the 6d for good reason, and on the better cameras they don't exist at all, on the low end cameras they're often the only used modes. It's why people who buy DSLRs get frustrated, because their auto everything camera doesn't take as good pictures as their old P&S.

My advice (worth all you're paying for it), you have to choose what you're focussing on, and you need to choose what's important for the effect you want to show, which for now is your shallow depth of field, so you want AV. you can set auto ISO and a minimum shutter speed of 1/250 which will mean you get sharp images.

That'll give you a very capable 'point and shoot', from there you can improve your photography by lots of practice whilst learning the technical stuff.

 

[Phil V]

Thanks for the constructive criticism Phil!
I'll take it all on board!
In regards the sharpness and quality it might be to do something with the way i have uploaded them!?
I used in camera wi-fi to transfer them to my phone and uploaded on the website from the phone.
My laptop is not really up to speed, so thats soneting i need to sort out sooner than later.

In all of your images there's something sharper than the eyes of your subject. So, what I said above, you need to choose what the camera is focussing on.

It's a psychological thing, we look at eyes, and eyes have to be sharp (more accurately, the nearest eye), if they're not, it stops a portrait 'working'. People don't instinctively know this fact, but show your hubby a portrait with sharp eyes and the same shot with a sharp ear, and he'll instinctively know which one he prefers, but won't know why. It's the same with composition rules, colour theory and all the other technical facts that we know work.

 

[Iren]

You are right, scene modes are well hidden, but why there are loqds of others and only 2 custom available!? I have not tried any of them yet
Thanks a lot for the guidance! I'll set it up for one of the custom modes and gibe it a go

There's no other way of putting this.
Just don't!
You can't learn from the scene modes, they're hidden on the 6d for good reason, and on the better cameras they don't exist at all, on the low end cameras they're often the only used modes. It's why people who buy DSLRs get frustrated, because their auto everything camera doesn't take as good pictures as their old P&S.

My advice (worth all you're paying for it), you have to choose what you're focussing on, and you need to choose what's important for the effect you want to show, which for now is your shallow depth of field, so you want AV. you can set auto ISO and a minimum shutter speed of 1/250 which will mean you get sharp images.

That'll give you a very capable 'point and shoot', from there you can improve your photography by lots of practice whilst learning the technical stuff.

 

[Iren]

I tried to focus on the eyes, but probably not good enough and i used autofocus, so probably try to do that manually. I found it bit frustraiting that you cant zoom, so have to stay far away or constantly run forward and backwards

In all of your images there's something sharper than the eyes of your subject. So, what I said above, you need to choose what the camera is focussing on.

It's a psychological thing, we look at eyes, and eyes have to be sharp (more accurately, the nearest eye), if they're not, it stops a portrait 'working'. People don't instinctively know this fact, but show your hubby a portrait with sharp eyes and the same shot with a sharp ear, and he'll instinctively know which one he prefers, but won't know why. It's the same with composition rules, colour theory and all the other technical facts that we know work.

 

[Phil V]

You are right, scene modes are well hidden, but why there are loqds of others and only 2 custom available!? I have not tried any of them yet
Thanks a lot for the guidance! I'll set it up for one of the custom modes and gibe it a go

You don't need the custom modes for a while yet.
Set AV, and Auto ISO. the only menu function you need to look at from my advice is the minimum shutter speed for auto ISO.

You appear to be looking at the camera and manual like its a machine rather than a camera, a camera is a tool.

Think musical instrument, it'll take a while to be able to bang a couple of chords out competently, and you can start by copying the classics. Then once you've got the technicals down you can let your creative juices flow. To follow the analogy through, the SCN modes are like hitting the auto chord on a Casio keyboard, you'll get a tune, it won't necessarily be what you want and you won't have enough control to improve it.

 

[Phil V]

I tried to focus on the eyes, but probably not good enough and i used autofocus, so probably try to do that manually. I found it bit frustraiting that you cant zoom, so have to stay far away or constantly run forward and backwards

You should be choosing the focus point, but using Auto focus, your camera isn't well equipped to use manual focus.

Edit to add. Practice this lots, you don't have to be shooting, but you can sit with your camera on an evening framing and focussing shots till it becomes 2nd nature. There's no substitute for this.

 

[big soft moose]

Cant i "lighten up" the faces in photoshop?
If i understand correctly, you have to hold reflector close to the object/person? I have no idea hot to do that next to a constantly moving toddler and i thought i could get away with not having flash in such bright day, is there any other way i csn get them lighter?

you could (more so if you were using Raw) however its best to get it right in camera if you can - you could have used a reflector on the baby in #1 as it wasnt going anywhere fast, with the toddler you are right that the reflector is probably impractical , but that's why you need a flash gun and diffuser ... the bright day btw is part of the problem as the directional light is what is causing the face to be in the shade.

WRT the laptop if its pretty old and you are looking at doing this commercially then you definitely need a better one to run Lightroom/photoshop - I think the recommended spec is an I5 or better with 8GB of Ram (and a 64 bit OS as with 32 bit RAm is limited to 4GB)

In essence setting up a photo business isn't cheap , in addition to what you already have you need a 2nd body , at least another couple of primes (or a decent zoom), a flash gun or two, numerous cards and batteries, ancillaries like reflectors and such and a decent computer and monitor .. and that's assuming you are only doing lifestyle/location and won't also need studio lights, tripod, backdrops and posing equipment etc.... plus of course all the 'cost of doing business stuff like marketting, website, insurance, and so on

 

[big soft moose]

I tried to focus on the eyes, but probably not good enough and i used autofocus, so probably try to do that manually. I found it bit frustraiting that you cant zoom, so have to stay far away or constantly run forward and backwards

and that's another reason why you might want to look at getting a zoom or two (like a 24-70 or 24-105 and 70-200) if you intend to cover highly mobile non posed subjects. The AF on the 6D is fairly basic (compared with the action cameras like the 7D, 5D and 1D series) but set to tracking AF and burst mode it ought to give you a reasonable number of keepers (plus of course a lot of blurred bin fodder) - tbh though your best bet is to practice more on subjects that don't run about so you get the hang of posed and directed shots before trying the more challenging stuff

 

[Livin The Dream]

My t'pence is that you need to work on your focus, do as Phil suggests, sit on the sofa and work that autofocus. Get used to moving the focus points around and get used to focus, recompose, shoot. Read up on the exposure triangle and learn how your camera meters. Spot metering for skin tones will give you the correct exposure but that's not easy at first until you learn the basics of exposure. There's plenty on the net.

 

[Iren]

In Av mode i could select Auto ISO, but dont think it allows me to do anything with shutter speed, i can only change alenture which is the lowest at 1.8...

There's no other way of putting this.
Just don't!
You can't learn from the scene modes, they're hidden on the 6d for good reason, and on the better cameras they don't exist at all, on the low end cameras they're often the only used modes. It's why people who buy DSLRs get frustrated, because their auto everything camera doesn't take as good pictures as their old P&S.

My advice (worth all you're paying for it), you have to choose what you're focussing on, and you need to choose what's important for the effect you want to show, which for now is your shallow depth of field, so you want AV. you can set auto ISO and a minimum shutter speed of 1/250 which will mean you get sharp images.

That'll give you a very capable 'point and shoot', from there you can improve your photography by lots of practice whilst learning the technical stuff.

 

[big soft moose]

In AV (aperture priority) you select an aperture the camera picks a shutter speed to match based on its metering (for a given ISO wider aperture* also equals higher shutter speed) , in TV (shutter priority) you select the shutter speed and the camera picks an aperture to match. In M (manual) you set both shutter and aperture and the meter lets you know whether (it thinks) you'll be over, under or correctly exposed

I use AV about 90% of the time

(* smaller number = bigger aperture , so f1.8 is the widest aperture your lens can do.)

 

[big soft moose]

It is worth noting however that wider aperture also equals smaller depth of field so with a fast moving subject it isn't necessarily best to open it right out to get a fast shutter - it might be better to select a slightly narrower aperture like say f4 and increase your ISO to compensate

ETA : David (pookeyhead) wrote a very comprehensive guide to understanding the relationship between shutter/aperture and ISO (aka exposure theory) which you can find here https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/t...xposure-theory-but-were-afraid-to-ask-101.39/

 

[Phil V]

In AV you select an aperture the camera picks a shutter speed to match based on its metering (for a given ISO wider aperture also equals higher shutter speed) , in TV you select the shutter speed and the camera picks an aperture to match

What he said.

In portrait mode, the camera roughly aims for a wide aperture, but it'll change depending on light levels vs quality.

In AV you chose the aperture that'll help you manage your DoF.

On the 3rd menu tab, there's Auto ISO speed settings, and therein you can set the minimum shutter speed.

 

[big soft moose]

In portrait mode,

.

Eek

Given that you want to be a pro, my strong recommendation would be to leave the scene modes the hell alone and start as you mean to go on with the PASM part of the dial, If you are shooting scene modes or full auto you might as well have bought a bridge camera or a point and shoot - buying a 6D then using it only in auto is like buying a 4x4 but only ever driving it in two wheel drive

 

[Iren]

I've got it now, will move strait to creative modes
Thanks

Eek

Given that you want to be a pro, my strong recommendation would be to leave the scene modes the hell alone and start as you mean to go on with the PASM part of the dial, If you are shooting scene modes or full auto you might as well have bought a bridge camera or a point and shoot - buying a 6D then using it only in auto is like buying a 4x4 but only ever driving it in two wheel drive

 

[Iren]

Thanks for the tips!
Ive read that theory yesterday, easy to understand with all the examples!

It is worth noting however that wider aperture also equals smaller depth of field so with a fast moving subject it isn't necessarily best to open it right out to get a fast shutter - it might be better to select a slightly narrower aperture like say f4 and increase your ISO to compensate

ETA : David (pookeyhead) wrote a very comprehensive guide to understanding the relationship between shutter/aperture and ISO (aka exposure theory) which you can find here https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/t...xposure-theory-but-were-afraid-to-ask-101.39/

 

[Iren]

I found it! Thanks!

What he said.

In portrait mode, the camera roughly aims for a wide aperture, but it'll change depending on light levels vs quality.

In AV you chose the aperture that'll help you manage your DoF.

On the 3rd menu tab, there's Auto ISO speed settings, and therein you can set the minimum shutter speed.

 

[Iren]

Thats a good point, to practise on subjects that dont run around
I will def get a second lens at some point, but for now i would stick with the one i have and make most of it. Just dont want to make any rushed purchases before i will understand more and realize what i want/need. Will keep those lenses in mind, thanks for suggestion

and that's another reason why you might want to look at getting a zoom or two (like a 24-70 or 24-105 and 70-200) if you intend to cover highly mobile non posed subjects. The AF on the 6D is fairly basic (compared with the action cameras like the 7D, 5D and 1D series) but set to tracking AF and burst mode it ought to give you a reasonable number of keepers (plus of course a lot of blurred bin fodder) - tbh though your best bet is to practice more on subjects that don't run about so you get the hang of posed and directed shots before trying the more challenging stuff

 

[Iren]

I might get a reflector to try it out! Flash gun as well, but later on. As i dont have limitless savings ans probably no income soon, i am very careful with the purchases after initian camera+lens and looks like laptop will be another investment i need to make

I wont be able to get all that equipment and not planning to do weddings, so just lifestyle/portraits for now( things might change or i might not get there and give up sooner), so if i will be getting some income from the photos, theni can reinvest into the equipment.
For now, i hope that body, 2 lenses, flash gun, reflector, new speedy laptop, photoshop/lightroom would be enough (and website once i have something to show). Still need to figure out the storage/back up of the photos - to get external hard drive or buy online space.
I have market reserch/marketing background, so that bit does not scare me off

you could (more so if you were using Raw) however its best to get it right in camera if you can - you could have used a reflector on the baby in #1 as it wasnt going anywhere fast, with the toddler you are right that the reflector is probably impractical , but that's why you need a flash gun and diffuser ... the bright day btw is part of the problem as the directional light is what is causing the face to be in the shade.

WRT the laptop if its pretty old and you are looking at doing this commercially then you definitely need a better one to run Lightroom/photoshop - I think the recommended spec is an I5 or better with 8GB of Ram (and a 64 bit OS as with 32 bit RAm is limited to 4GB)

In essence setting up a photo business isn't cheap , in addition to what you already have you need a 2nd body , at least another couple of primes (or a decent zoom), a flash gun or two, numerous cards and batteries, ancillaries like reflectors and such and a decent computer and monitor .. and that's assuming you are only doing lifestyle/location and won't also need studio lights, tripod, backdrops and posing equipment etc.... plus of course all the 'cost of doing business stuff like marketting, website, insurance, and so on

 

[Iren]

Ive edit post with newphoto on top, would be great if you can have a look
Thanks

Eek

Given that you want to be a pro, my strong recommendation would be to leave the scene modes the hell alone and start as you mean to go on with the PASM part of the dial, If you are shooting scene modes or full auto you might as well have bought a bridge camera or a point and shoot - buying a 6D then using it only in auto is like buying a 4x4 but only ever driving it in two wheel drive

 

[Iren]

You should be choosing the focus point, but using Auto focus, your camera isn't well equipped to use manual focus.

Edit to add. Practice this lots, you don't have to be shooting, but you can sit with your camera on an evening framing and focussing shots till it becomes 2nd nature. There's no substitute for this.

Ive edit post with newphoto on too, would be great if you can have a look
Thanks