Critique First go with Macro lens - Struggling to get a good hit rate

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Phil
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Just got my self a Sigma 105mm Macro, I'm learning how to use the thing. I'm currently taking more out of focus than in focus, here after what feels like a million attempts are some of the shots I've taken. Any tips or comments are really welcome, how can I improve my "hit rate" any tips really really please share.

After the Storm

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Dandelion

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Early morning dew

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Are you using a tripod as there seems to be motion blur present?
 
i cant really help much as im new to, but just to make you feel better.

My last attempt i think i took 135 and got about 4 i was kind of happy with, wouldn't say i was pleased, i think my first attempt i took hundreds and got 1 maybe 2.

not sure how much that helps ?
 
The First & third on a monopod, the second one free hand, I seem to struggle with wind when doing these
 
Sorry just like to clarify on my Comment I'm personally not suffering with Wind. Windy conditions as a slightly movement and it ruined.

Do I leave the optical stabilization on setting 1 or 2?
 
, I seem to struggle with wind when doing these

Yesterday I was having problems with the wind, I just wait a bit for it to drop but you can be in middle of taking a photo and up pops the wind again, all I can say about the wind is patience. I must admit I have a high failure rate as well.
 
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Wind is a biatch!! To stop hand shake/camera shake being an issue try and use above 1/160s. Your hit rate will improve with practice as with any type of photography for some reason it seems that assumption for macro is it would be easy. (Not saying OP believed it would be)

Remember that going macro everything is accentuated... which makes it one of the hardest forms of photography to do (IMHO)
Some of the best people in this section consider 10% or 1 in 10 a very good ratio. So dont think you are doing that badly. Keep it up and you will see improvements don't believe me, I started this game in Jan and you can search through my posts in this section to see my journey.

Sorry just like to clarify on my Comment I'm personally not suffering with Wind. Windy conditions as a slightly movement and it ruined.

Do I leave the optical stabilization on setting 1 or 2?

What were your shot settings? OS wont have any effect at high shutter speeds.
 
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Sorry just like to clarify on my Comment I'm personally not suffering with Wind. Windy conditions as a slightly movement and it ruined.

Do I leave the optical stabilization on setting 1 or 2?
2 is used for panning shots so you should be using 1 when hand holding. If you are using a tripod / monopod the general rule is switch IS / OS off as it possible it'll introduce movement when non is present, some IS systems sense when a tripod is used not sure about your lens though.
 
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i cant really help much as im new to, but just to make you feel better.

My last attempt i think i took 135 and got about 4 i was kind of happy with, wouldn't say i was pleased, i think my first attempt i took hundreds and got 1 maybe 2.

not sure how much that helps ?

Its much the same for me, 100+ photos and maybe 3 or 4 worth a look at, as Bryn said, keep at it and it will all come together.
PS, look at hoftwi photo/profile or follow, shes just started and blown people away with her remarkable photos in such a short time.
 
My keeper rate has always been very low, I'm just too shaky but using a flash is a massive help.
I've got the non-OS version of yours so using the flash means I can keep the shutter speed up and really freeze the motion while it also allows me to stop down to a very small aperture to maximise DOF.
DOF even at f20 is still miniscule though, you're looking at maybe 1/3 of a fly in focus at MFD!
Regarding your shots above, I think I'd have preferred to see the stamen in focus in the first one, the second I can't really see anything in focus so it doesn't do anything for me but the third one I love!
The colours are stunning and in my opinion the DOF is spot on! (y)
 
same here, hundreds of shots but very few come out the way I want, but thats normal from what everyone else says. You can always try rotating the camera so the focal-plane is where you want it, everything doesn't have to be straight and horizontal :)
 
Dare I utter these words or will they get me cast into a fiery pit?
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I sometimes use servo focus :exit:
 
I reckon my keeper rate is quite low so I take lots of shots! I've also been using servo+spot focus on the 7D to good effect!
 
practice, practice , practice we all get failures, just be ruthless with your editing, i get loads of failures, a tripod is a big bonus and really helps, even if its windy, there is only the subject to be moving rather than the camera s well.
 
Wind is the devil's own force of nature with macro.

1 in 10 / 1 in 20 is a fair target to aim at.

As others have said - practice, practice. (y)
 
Dare I utter these words or will they get me cast into a fiery pit?
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I sometimes use servo focus :exit:

That makes 2 of us (y)

Nikon actually recommend not us IS/VR for macro
I normally use manual settings when I do macro, try and keep the shutter speed and aperture as high as possible
also use a ring flash which helps freeze wind motion
 
There are (at least) three ways of getting good focus. You might want to try them all and see which works best for you. (FWIW I use all three, depending on the circumstances.)

Method 1. Autofocus. I suspect most people use manual focus and from numerous comments I've seen over several years I think many people under-rate the possibilities of autofocus. FWIW I use autofocus most of the time for invertebrates. I often use autofocus for flowers. Whether autofocus works for you may depend on what equipment you use. I have some equipment for which autofocus works really well, and some for which it doesn't. (It doesn't matter exactly what I use and what of it works with autofocus and what doesn't, because none of it is comparable to the equipment you are using.)

Method 2. Manual focus using the focus ring. I don't use this great deal, but when I do I'm usually using a tripod in the "classic" manner (see below).

Method 3. Rocking manual focus. You leave the focus ring alone and you move to where the subject is more or less in focus. You then move very gently towards and away from the subject and watch as it goes in and out of focus, and you get a feel for what it looks like just before it comes into focus. You then time your press of the shutter button to be just before the subject is fully in focus with the aim of capturing the shot just as the subject is passing through the point of best focus. This is a very popular method I believe. It takes practice. Expect an extremely high failure rate initially, but don't get put off by that. Once you get the hang of it this can give excellent results.

I have a focus ring [EDIT no I don't, I have a focus rail!] on my tripod with a knob that lets me move the camera towards and away from the subject with very fine control. I use a version of rocking manual focus with this.

I use a tripod in two different ways. One is what I call the "classic" tripod technique. You set up the shot, take your hands away, give the rig time to settle down and then use a wired or wireless remote shutter release (or less satisfactory IMO the camera's self timer) to capture the image. You really need still air and a subject that isn't liable to nip off at any second for this to work well, especially if you are using the camera's self timer rather than a remote release. I use this when I can, but that isn't very often, and is mainly very early in the morning, when the air tends to be at its most still (but only on some days - I watch the weather forecasts rather carefully and am out at dawn on suitable days to try to capture "still air" shots).

More usually I use a tripod like some people use a monopod, or a pole or stick, in what I call a "tripod assisted" approach. Depending on where the subject is, the tripod may have three, two or one leg on the ground. I keep my hands on the camera and the tripod cuts down a lot of the movement from hand shake. This lets me use slower shutter speeds than would otherwise be the case. It also helps with initially composing the picture and then holding that composition while I take multiple shots to try to get one that works nicely. I use this technique for invertebrates and flowers. With invertebrates you can respond quickly to slight movements that animal subjects may make, and also respond to movement of flowers, leaves etc. It's not so much a case of trying to track a leaf as it moves, but of changing the composition slightly when the breeze leaves the subject, or what it is standing on, in a slightly different position after it has been blown around.

Like I imagine everyone else who is into closeups, I have a high failure rate. I very, very occasionally go above 10% keepers, and usually it is more like 5%, and it can be lower, sometimes a lot lower. And in terms of keepers, I often end up with a run of shots of a particular subject where most of them work out ok, but because they are so similar they only provide one keeper, or a few very similar ones, As a result, in terms of images that are significantly different from one another, much less than 5% is typical for me, and most of these will be ok but not wonderful. Out of 1,000 or more images that I capture during a 5-7 hour session at a nature reserve, or in our garden, I might if I'm lucky get two or three that I rather like, that stand out in some way. Often it is none. Once every few sessions (or once every not so few sessions), I get a result (which may be one or several images) that really appeals to me and goes into my longer term "favourites" and that I trot out from time to time for various reasons.

What with movement in the breeze (and associated changing light if the scene is illuminated through foliage), and the unpredictable movement of invertebrate subjects as they go about their lives, success with closeups is for me at least a numbers game, where I capture lots of images and try to peer through the fog of randomness to happen upon occasional moments of clarity when everything falls into place just as I press the shutter button. This is especially true if like me you prefer to use natural light rather than flash. I do use flash, especially with invertebrates (but almost never with flowers) and this lets you "freeze the moment", irrespective of breeze, hand shake, subject movement etc, and lets you use low ISOs (for less noise) and fast shutter speeds (for better sharpness) even if you use smaller apertures (for more depth of field). But a preference for natural light, and deep depth of field, coupled with living in a breezy location, and shooting in conditions of poor light around dawn, dusk and on overcast days, gets me deeper into the numbers game and also the consequences for post processing of dealing with images that are noisy and less sharp and detailed.

You can learn from the misses and almost rans, but don't let them get you down. Learn and move on. And be patient. There are some people here who are developing at a stunning speed, and it is a joy to see, but there are others (like me for example), who are a bit on the slow side when it comes to new things. So don't despair if you can't match the speed of the fastest. It's not a race; it's a journey. Take whatever time you need, and enjoy it! :)
 
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