First ice hockey attempted......sucked
- Thread starter JessRockz
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- Andy
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I reckon that your camera has reduced its exposure level to a mid-gray which is how it does all its metering. As a result the ice is grey and it's all a bit underexposed. So when shooting something that has lots of white (skiing is the same), you need to over-expose to get a nice-looking shot. You can do this by dialling in some exposure compensation, or use manual mode.
Secondly, judging from your depth of field which is quite "deep" or "long" i.e. lots of the scene is in focus, I'd guess that you aren't using a very fast lens. You're probably at f/5.6 or suchlike. As a result, you cant get much light into the lens as the hole is quite small, so your shutter speed wont get high enough to really freeze the action.
The good news is that you can fix this. The bad news is that it will cost you ££££s! You're after a wide-aperture lens at least f/2.8, and that means large lumps of precision-ground glass which will cost a lot. The larger aperture will mean you can get more light in so have a faster shutter speed. It also has the desirable effect of reducing your depth of field, making stuff in the background blurry and making your subject (the players) pop out from the background.
Lastly, positioning. For this sort of stuff the pics look much better the lower you can get.
Tobers
Secondly, judging from your depth of field which is quite "deep" or "long" i.e. lots of the scene is in focus, I'd guess that you aren't using a very fast lens. You're probably at f/5.6 or suchlike. As a result, you cant get much light into the lens as the hole is quite small, so your shutter speed wont get high enough to really freeze the action.
The good news is that you can fix this. The bad news is that it will cost you ££££s! You're after a wide-aperture lens at least f/2.8, and that means large lumps of precision-ground glass which will cost a lot. The larger aperture will mean you can get more light in so have a faster shutter speed. It also has the desirable effect of reducing your depth of field, making stuff in the background blurry and making your subject (the players) pop out from the background.
Lastly, positioning. For this sort of stuff the pics look much better the lower you can get.
Tobers
Canon EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 Zoom
I am really new to this so I dont really know much yet.....
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Not bad considering the light.
Might r-consider taking my 70-300VR to a footy match.
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to fair that rink doesnt look very well lit, also are you taking the shots thru the plexy glass. I notcied that it really darkens your shots.
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Considering the lens, you've done very well (and by that mean the f-stops..I am sure it is a good lens otherwise).
I bet the light in the Arena wasn't very good, so it is tough to get high enough shutter speeds.
From your shots number 1 is quite nice, if you only could have gotten closer to the action - it would be great. As it is there is quite a lot of empty space in the frame. And I am sure with the 300 you could get nice and close to the goalmouth.
Other hints I thought, try to get the players facing you as you take the shots
In 90% of the shots.. try to get the puck in them.
Without a faster lens, try to get some sportrait shots of the players before the face-off. I am sure the players themselves would appreciate these, and as they stand pretty much still at the time - you don't need the fast lens for these and can slow the shutter speed to get in enough light.
I bet the light in the Arena wasn't very good, so it is tough to get high enough shutter speeds.
From your shots number 1 is quite nice, if you only could have gotten closer to the action - it would be great. As it is there is quite a lot of empty space in the frame. And I am sure with the 300 you could get nice and close to the goalmouth.
Other hints I thought, try to get the players facing you as you take the shots
In 90% of the shots.. try to get the puck in them.
Without a faster lens, try to get some sportrait shots of the players before the face-off. I am sure the players themselves would appreciate these, and as they stand pretty much still at the time - you don't need the fast lens for these and can slow the shutter speed to get in enough light.