These are great. Evidence on my flickr. (first 4 images).
Except of course that branded hotshoe flashes cost more than most twin head studio lighting kits...Thanks for the replies.
room is 10 x10m but may have to use the 4x5m room.ceiling height 3m.
I was going to use speedlights purely because I do not do enough to warrant the cost of studio lights.
Speedlights are sb910 & 2x YN510 (maybe a 568 if I treat my self).
@Brian_of_Bozeat those were the ones I was looking at
How do i find your flickr?
For that, just bang the flash off of the ceiling/wall behind you...This is the type of image I'm looking for
That was just the pose I tend to shoot but to me it looks really flat, its was taken in shadow on a sunny day.For that, just bang the flash off of the ceiling/wall behind you...
If you need to create the white BG in camera, use the other two speedlights in small boxes to light the BG.
It is really flat... you don't need advanced/technical lighting to create that.That was just the pose I tend to shoot but to me it looks really flat, its was taken in shadow on a sunny day.
I've only just noticed both suggestions are outside the UK with a long lead time
You can find UK held ones, particularly if you don't go for the grid (a recent addition).That was just the pose I tend to shoot but to me it looks really flat, its was taken in shadow on a sunny day.
I've only just noticed both suggestions are outside the UK with a long lead time
I ended up buying a tilt bracket and extension arm for the rear facing one, but it makes it a bit unwieldy.They do look good Phil, I forgot about the tilt, for the rare occasions when I need to tilt, I have a boom arm, Price vs price they work out about the same when you factor that in. But I would argue that with the boom arm you can get it to point straight down like a ceiling light which "your" one can't do.
Hows the light off of those? - I ask because in the one I linked to the flash points into the box (away from the screen) and seems to come out with quite an even spread, when I have shot my flashes into smaller versions of the one you linked to I found there to be a significant hot spot (yes, I used the built in diffuser on the flash).
Is it deep enough? I have played with the thought of getting a 24" version an buying a Lencarta grid for it.You can buy this without the grid for a lot less, but the grid is worth every penny IMHO.
I've done a DIY grid modification for mine, I have the 80cm version and bought a 100x80 grid and cut it down.Is it deep enough? I have played with the thought of getting a 24" version an buying a Lencarta grid for it.
These are great. Evidence on my flickr. (first 4 images)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00QUNGNTI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I believe they do a slightly bigger one as well.
The main issue with those is that they don't tilt well on a stand and they only have the front diffuser panel, no inner diffuser.
I have the 80 cm octobox style one and to be honest am looking to upgrade to the lastolite ez box 2 octobox as it seems much better quality.
I just use these and find them very good...... like yourself, not keen on hotshoe flashes firing onto the subject, even through a couple of layers of diffusion material...... I've got an 80cm octa as well, but find it a bit unwieldy and space-consuming.
Those pictures illustrate the issue brilliantly, without the diffuser on, that brolly is at the right angle for std portraiture, and you can see that the diffuser won't go on. The image with the diffuser fitted isn't at a suitable angle.Just found THIS one for a tenner! - I'm tempted but I've already bought too much photo kit this month.
Those pictures illustrate the issue brilliantly, without the diffuser on, that brolly is at the right angle for std portraiture, and you can see that the diffuser won't go on. The image with the diffuser fitted isn't at a suitable angle.
I bought the 80x80 box that Phil linked to here from his recomendation.No grid though. Works fine with my speedlights. I also have 60 by 60 which works fine too.The bracket is VERY good strong and easy to use.
Gaz
I've done a DIY grid modification for mine, I have the 80cm version and bought a 100x80 grid and cut it down.
But a boom and softbox is much more expensive than a s type bracket and softbox.Like I said above I have mine on a boom and I can have it any angle I like.
They're both the same type of design.thanks guys but pretty confused now.
As I'm aiming to do waist up portraits is the 60x90 a better size?
I presume the softbox is slightly higher then the target and angled slightly down (Which is why @Phil V says the octagon version is no good)?
I will need an s bracket as beam is a bit awkward to use (remember I may have limited space).
If I've understood correctly either of these are what I'm looking for?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80cm-31-5...12131dd:g:RCIAAOSwrklVRZyT&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111652051457?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
With speedlights you might have something of a point. But IMO/IME anything ≤ 2ft is a bit of a waste. I'd just as soon use a 3ft umbrella...it doesn't get easier than that.In an ideal world, a large Octa or medium rectangular softbox are great tools, but as a first softbox to light with a speedlight, I'm not so sure.
I never suggested anything smaller than 2ft.With speedlights you might have something of a point. But IMO/IME anything ≤ 2ft is a bit of a waste. I'd just as soon use a 3ft umbrella...it doesn't get easier than that.