Fitting a performance Race Chip (?)

I found the initial comment a little ambiguous so I expanded a little, that's all.
If an engine manufacturer has designed and mapped the engine right, the shape of the curve should be right from the outset, Then it's just a case of increasing it.
Sometimes there will be limitations due to emissions and economy and the manufacturer can make up for this with gearing. Extra power can also cause vibration and harshness in the engine that a manufacturer won't want as most buyers won't like it.
 
What would you recommend to be best then, a generic map for the model of car and just boost the pressure?
 
What would you recommend to be best then, a generic map for the model of car and just boost the pressure?
A custom map for your own engine every time as every engine will be slightly different. But on a turbo charged engine I'd recommend firstly looking into a larger intercooler and a better cold air feed on the air inlet side as well. Colder air inlet temps means the turbo doesn't have to work so hard, and as the larger intercooler will provide lower charge air temps again the turbo won't need to work or boost so hard, then get the remap. It will be a lot kinder for your engine and the turbo. All the pipework from the turbo to the intercooler, the intercooler itself, and then the pipework going to the throttle body and inlet manifold all have a maximum pressure rating. Go past that and regular overboosting could possibly see a failure of any of those. OEM boost hoses have a habit of splitting over time even on a standard engine so I'd recommend replacing them with silicone hoses, they are generally cheaper than OEM hoses anyway.
 
I remember upgrading my TIP on the MPS6 along with a sealed SRI along with lowering springs but never got around to remapping it because I would have had to upgrade the fuel pump internals and ended up selling the car. The intercooler was top mounted also which wasn't great but a larger front mounted one was commonly done.
 
Great replies........thank you!

I think I'll just forget about the RaceChip, so today I focused on spending half a day hoovering out my A4, fitted new wiper blades, only a matter of days ago I got 4x new tyres fitted, a new fan belt for the power steering and inner part for alternator (as it was squealing like mad). Cleaned/polished inside car and checked tyre pressures etc, I've now got the interest back that I had lost a while ago.


:)

You'll be joining us here then https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/washing-your-car.622303/ :D
 
i recommend a motorbike, large intercooler my arse, large bike and a large set of balls win win
 
wOw great replies, thanks for the advice guys......!

On another note, a friend of mine owned an older model Mazda 3 MPS and took me for a 15 mile spin, wow I couldn't believe the power from the standard 255bhp motor, very quick. Really impressed.

I'd love one of these but prob loose my license too easy.

I used to have a impreza WRX, it had a 6 speed box, flat out it was
1st
2nd
Banned
Cat C
Cat B
Cat A

I loved every second I drove it but 22mpg and £500 tax got a bit wearing

Sold it and bought a Mx5 sport with a BBR 200 kit fitted which added 40bhp with new cams, a remap, exhaust manifold and induction kit for 3k

It's fast enough but feels much quicker because your arse is 3" off the ground , much more fun and less chance of a ban
 
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On a similar note I've always fancied an S2000, but completely impractical at the moment. Perhaps in later years.
 
Re: insurers ~ so the cost of the mod increases the car value = higher premium? I would have thought power increase was greater weighting factor I.e. more powerful in hands of a/the particular age & gender driver = higher premium?

Re:modern engineering coupled with control electronics ~ makes to "design & engineer" that way because of economy of scale in regard to production costs......software is cheaper than hardware.

What we don't like is the go faster bits.. eg engine / exhaust mods, larger turochargers etc, without the stopping quicker mods..
 
What we don't like is the go faster bits.. eg engine / exhaust mods, larger turochargers etc, without the stopping quicker mods..
But are you aware that some manufacturers fit the exact same brakes to their performance models that they fit to the normal models. A brake upgrade isn't always necessary.
 
I've always been puzzled by these. If there's a software/firmware way to get more power for less fuel then why aren't Audi already doing it? What's the downside?

Because car manufacturers ship the same vehicles to many different countries with different fuel grades and altitude above sea level they chuck a map on its that is middle of the road and is one size fits all.

Remapping will tweek the map for more specific factors.

Makes sense, thanks. So essentially you are working the car harder.

Not necessarily. It's just optimising the map, if anything you shouldn't be straining the engine as much during overtakes etc because the engine has more to play with. Of course if you go too aggressive on the map you can burn out stock clutches etc but that could also be attributed to driving style.
 
Because car manufacturers ship the same vehicles to many different countries with different fuel grades and altitude above sea level they chuck a map on its that is middle of the road and is one size fits all.
Not all manufacturers provide a single map for all markets. Engines generally get fitted in more than one vehicle and have to be mapped for each installation. So whilst the manufacturer is doing that they map for different fuels, climates etc.
 
You dont need a remap of your car
you need a remap of your head and your free spirit

 
You dont need a remap of your car
you need a remap of your head and your free spirit

My car is probably more practical and harder to steel. A cutter grinder and that will be gone quicker than it will accelerate. That and on wet days if you do go out on it, you will be mincing around on it holding people up.:D
 
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