Beginner Flash Problems

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Mark65

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Mark
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Hi all,
I have a Godox TT685ii N and I've had it for quite a while, I finally started having a go with it indoors but I'm not sure it works right or more likely me. I connect to the camera and have it on iTTL, my camera is set with the high sync enabled (200*), flash control is greyed out, I also have it set for fill flash (person and background) however when I use it its not much better than no flash at all lots of noise most of the time, I've tried direct which does better and bouncing, I'm only 1-3 meters away in a living room with daylight coming through. Its either high iso or low shutter speeds, practically the same as using no flash, is my Godox faulty, I can pick up a SB700 they say is new for £140, would that be better, Im combing old posts and videos, I only need on camera for now.
Thanks again for any advice.
Mark
 
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Your problem is you’re letting your camera guess what you want to achieve, it’ll never work (ok sometimes it does ok for some people).

What you’re describing as your results is what I would call ‘fill flash’ but the situation you’re describing suggests you want more flash than simply ‘fill’.

What I’d recommend is that you set your camera to manual (proper M with a chosen ISO), and to expose the ambient appropriately (whether ‘correct’ or up to a stop under), then the iTTL flash will add whatever light is required for a correct exposure*.

*well ETTL would definitely get it right , so I’d assume Nikon would too.

additional info - ‘fill’ is often misunderstood, a ‘fill’ light is a light that softens shadows caused by a keylight (many photographers mistakenly believe that any on camera flash mixed with a bright light becomes fill).

If you have a highly backlit subject, the light you’re adding isn’t fill, it’s a keylight! the backlight then becomes a kicker.
 
Hi Phil, thanks, so I went manual set iso to 1000 auto off, 1/125 f1.8 bounced off the ceiling and image is dark :oops: :$, if i go higher iso i get loads more noise, not sure whats going wrong.
Thanks
 

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Hi, so after about 100 images, I have put the flash into manual and set the lens at 50mm, power between 1/8 1/24, hss on , Iso 2000, f7.1, shutter 1/160 to 1/200 and its started taking some half decent images in a dark room, it works much better than iTTL mode, no idea why though.
Have a great new year all.

Mark
 
Something is very odd here, when you say a dark room and you are bouncing the flash off the ceiling what colour and how high is the ceiling?
Given those settings and a white or light-coloured ceiling I would expect the photo to be way over exposed, a dark ceiling is going to be a whole different ball game as by bouncing off the ceiling you are using it as a reflector
Try the following and see what happens
Camera on Manual, SS at the sync speed of the camera (usually 1/160-1/200) ISO 400, aperture 7.1 ( ish) set the flash to TTL , tilt the flash head to 60 degrees and pull out the bounce card on the flash, take a picture of the dog and see what you get.
I suspect that you are expecting a bit too much from a single speedlight in your conditions
 
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Surely at those shutter speeds HSS is unnecessary and will reduce the power of the flash. Have you tried without HSS?
 
A lot of Godox flashes are not compatible with late model Nikon bodies without a firmware update (D780, Z, etc); and not all of them can be updated... it sounds to me like your flash is suffering from incompatibility.
 
Something out somewhere, as Steven says it might be compatability issues. ISO 2000 shouldnt be needed. I dont have a Godox, but I typically shoot at 200 or 400 ISO tops and no problems, even bouncing in decent size rooms in ETTL. Have you tried the camera and flash in auto or program where it might set it all??
 
HI, Thanks for your replies, I set the camera at f7.1, ISO to 400, speed to 200, tried single shot (green focus light came on) and continuous, this was one of the better ones, others were darker and out of focus. I didnt realize that the flash may not have worked with the camera when I bought it, Godox do a 860iii or I will look for a Nikon SB-700,if needed, I know the camera can take great images but it seems hit and miss sometimes.

swanseamale47, yes tried auto and not much difference.​


thanks
Mark

MPT_2115.JPG
 
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That is a marked improvement,when you say continuous is that focus or shooting?
For a static object there is really no need for either.
its a bit underexposed so open up the aperture a bit or increase the flash power slightlk
 
Sorry, yes, continuous focus, I boosted the light in ITTL +1.3 lowered exposure to 160 and fstop to 4.5 but still plenty of noise a blur, balloon is about 1.3m away.

MPT_2128.JPG
 
If you were to put both the camera and flash Ttl on auto, inc ISO, what does the resulting picture come out like? What setting does the choose? When the camera tells you what it did, perhaps tweak the settings on manual.

You seem to be choosing static things, so a fast shutter is not needed but fast enough that it doesn’t show your shake. Maybe try a tripod if the room is dark and you shake.

look at the shadows and see what the main light source is. The balloon has two shadows so you have two lights, one being the flash?
 
Hi, automatic gives F4, 1/60, iso 5000, and the image is nosier, My granddaughter is running around now so I'm just trying to work out a quicker shutter speed, the camera still seems to struggle with focus even if I lower everything. the second shadow is a wall light just above the balloon and slightly to the right.

MPT_2138.JPG
 
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With an ISO of 5000 then there is not enough light but I do not believe it is down to the flash other than perhaps the direction it is pointing in or other conditions. Bouncing light gives a fill but colour of wall/ceiling and height or distance will affect how much is useful. Use direct can be harsh but at the distance you say should bring the iso down.

Others will be far more of a help than I and can see Phil has already mentioned bounced fill may not be sufficient. Maybe a softbox or diffuser could help with more directlight.
 
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The Godox firmware latest release for TT685iiN notes say this:

TT685N Firmware V3.3
Release Date
2020/12/18
Remark
Before updating this firmware version, please make sure that your gear has download the G1 firmware launcher installer.
Updated Contents
1. Compatible with Camera D780’s hotshoe agreement.

Could that be it? All you need for a TT685ii update is a USB-C cable from memory.
 

hunnymonster, thanks but mines a version 2, thanks for your help everyone, will carry on trying or I might just pop for the nikon flash.​

 
Have you tried it without HSS enabled? At the speeds you’re using you shouldn’t need it.
 
Hi, After reading a lot it seems the auto focus struggles in low light with a flash as the camera uses a green light assist not red and only in single shot mode and flashes use a red so they don't work together . I've tried so many combos now and using manual at a guess works better than the iTTL.
Amazon do the SB700, I could try that and return it if its no better but they are running at £300 or take a punt on ebay.
Hadron- I turned HSS off and its no better.
 
Mark65 said:
Hi, After reading a lot it seems the auto focus struggles in low light with a flash as the camera uses a green light assist not red and only in single shot mode and flashes use a red so they don't work together . I've tried so many combos now and using manual at a guess works better than the iTTL.
Amazon do the SB700, I could try that and return it if its no better but they are running at £300 or take a punt on ebay.
Hadron- I turned HSS off and its no better.
Click to expand...
As of now, I know of no flash with a green AF assist light. With the Z6 you can turn off "view effect of settings" if enabled, that will help with AF.
 
That's a bit strange, you would think the likes of Godox would be on that already, but yes live view is off, Godox do a little light that might work, I would have to put the big cage back on for a mounting point.
 
I have a little tactical light that has a picatinny/weaver mount on it and a remote pressure switch. I have it on a hotshoe mount which can be put in the passthrough hotshoe of a remote trigger. I also have a small arca swiss clamp mounted picatinny rail so it could be mounted on an L-bracket or arca swiss plate below the camera.

I believe the reason red is used is that it doesn't affect the eyes as much.

1704292259621.png
 
sk66 said:
As of now, I know of no flash with a green AF assist light. With the Z6 you can turn off "view effect of settings" if enabled, that will help with AF.
Click to expand...
Neither can I.. Could the green light be a flash ready or wireless active?
 
If this is the flash under discussion it has AF beam

www.godox.co.uk

Godox TT685N Thinklite TTL Camera Flash for Nikon Cameras

Two way transmitting styles Full TTL Functions Built in 2.4G Receiver up to 100 meters range HSS up to 1/8,000s 5 Groups and 32 Channels Dot Matrix LCD Display AA Batteries Withstanding Overheat and Useful Functions, GN60 (m ISO 100, @105mm), 22 steps of power output (1/1-1/128)
www.godox.co.uk www.godox.co.uk
 
troutfisher said:
If this is the flash under discussion it has AF beam

www.godox.co.uk

Godox TT685N Thinklite TTL Camera Flash for Nikon Cameras

Two way transmitting styles Full TTL Functions Built in 2.4G Receiver up to 100 meters range HSS up to 1/8,000s 5 Groups and 32 Channels Dot Matrix LCD Display AA Batteries Withstanding Overheat and Useful Functions, GN60 (m ISO 100, @105mm), 22 steps of power output (1/1-1/128)
www.godox.co.uk www.godox.co.uk
Click to expand...
Yes, but it is red AF assist which mirrorless cameras cannot use (AF is achieved with masked green photosites).
 
swanseamale47 said:
Neither can I.. Could the green light be a flash ready or wireless active?
Click to expand...
I've seen one that can be mounted to the flash itself and uses an optical sensor over the AF assist light on the camera body, but that also has limitations; must use AF-S with Nikons and it's not very powerful (may be more than adequate, IDK).

adapting-camera.blogspot.com

External auto focus assist light for mirrorless cameras is now availble

V1-F1A, V2-F1A, V3-F1A adapter for Nikon 1. Technical information about flash and Nikon speedlights and cameras, as well as DIY, CNC, DIY CNC.
adapting-camera.blogspot.com adapting-camera.blogspot.com

I've considered modifying the flash's window by creating a green window in it... but the mirrorless cameras won't activate it anyway (at least Nikon's don't).
 
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So, Amazon has a

Godox V860III-N £169, alleged to be compatible with z6ii and has a small model light on the front that may help with focusing in a darker room.​

Nikon SB-700 Speedlight £200​

Anyone tried these with a z camera.
 
Mark65 said:
So, Amazon has a

Godox V860III-N £169, alleged to be compatible with z6ii and has a small model light on the front that may help with focusing in a darker room.​

Nikon SB-700 Speedlight £200​

Anyone tried these with a z camera.
Click to expand...
Of the two I would definitely get the Godox. I have the V860II and it works with my Z9... it just doesn't have the modeling light, which should help with focusing quite a bit.
 
Hi, so I got a SB-700 today and its defiantly better than my existing Godox but the flash has about a mm each way of wiggle whereas the Godox is rock solid, should the Nikon have play in the hotshoe?, Its from Amazon so can be returned, any thoughts please or experience.
Thanks
 
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Have you tightened onto the hot shoe?
There’ll either be a lever or a ring to turn.
 
There's usually a little play. Check that the locking lever causes the locking pin to extend and that the flash works when twisted to the sides. As long as the locking mechanism works, and the play is not enough to cause communication issues, it should be fine.
 
Ok Thanks, got a 860iii coming tomm, give that a try as well,
 
Hi, So i got the Godox 860iii N today, only had a few shots tonight with it but it seems a lot better than the 865ii N I have, the front light is very bright even on a low setting but it does great for areas without people and does help the focus, maybe a filter over it for use with people.
This is a similar image, jpeg straight from camera 1/160, f7.1, iso800.
And as I got this for under £160 i thought bugger and bought a used SB-700 that looks mint from Harrisons Cameras, came with a 12 month warranty, £85, I can play with both of them to see which is better.
 

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Mark65 said:
Hi, So i got the Godox 860iii N today, only had a few shots tonight with it but it seems a lot better than the 865ii N I have, the front light is very bright even on a low setting but it does great for areas without people and does help the focus, maybe a filter over it for use with people.
This is a similar image, jpeg straight from camera 1/160, f7.1, iso800.
And as I got this for under £160 i thought bugger and bought a used SB-700 that looks mint from Harrisons Cameras, came with a 12 month warranty, £85, I can play with both of them to see which is better.
Click to expand...
The only advantage the SB700 has is that it's smaller and lighter... If that were primary I would go back to an SB600. But I really hate having to manage a bunch of AA batteries anymore.
 
Hi all, so today I did try putting a green gel that came with the Godox flash over the lamp part out of curiosity, funny enough Im sure the focusing is a lot better in a dark room, any one else tried this just to make sure its not my imagination, colour is very similar to the camera green light,, I only taped a piece on but might try a better fit with Velcro.
Ive found increasing the iTTL up to 1.3 really helps in the rooms.
Any thoughts please,
Thanks
 
Mark65 said:
Hi all, so today I did try putting a green gel that came with the Godox flash over the lamp part out of curiosity, funny enough Im sure the focusing is a lot better in a dark room, any one else tried this just to make sure its not my imagination, colour is very similar to the camera green light,, I only taped a piece on but might try a better fit with Velcro.
Ive found increasing the iTTL up to 1.3 really helps in the rooms.
Any thoughts please,
Thanks
Click to expand...
There should not be any benefit to using a green gel in terms of AF... in terms of annoying others, blocking the wavelengths the camera cannot use for AF may be beneficial. As for the FEC setting, that really varies by situation...
 
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Hi All, SB-700 arrived this morning from Harrison Cameras, absolute mint, all accessories included, you could not tell the difference between it and the new one sent back, they both seem very similar to me but the Godox is better with the model lamp in helping focus, I thought, yes it can help on static subjects but my wife sat still and said the modelling light is too bright for her eyes on the lowest settings whether green or white so now I would say they are pretty much neck and neck.
The Z6ii set on continuous is very poor in low light but single shot with af assist is much better, Ive learned Im pretty poor with a flash as well it seems after a hundred or so shots and unless theres plenty of light Im struggling with the Z6ii on focus, maybe its too dark as if I use the same settings I used with the flash I see no image at all unless I use auto iso the it goes so high its just noise. Really frustrated now , time to watch more you tube videos.
I appreciate the advice and help thats been given.

Mark
 
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Hi Again, so I did a hard reset after re installing the latest firmware an re did the settings I have, sent the 860iii back and kept the used SB-700, took a few shots tonight in low light, without flash it will take an image but is noisy, with the flash bouncing in c mode its a bit hit and miss on focus then with single and its af light it was really good, .
I downloaded an app on my phone a lux meter and I know it may not be that accurate but the living room show 2.2-3.6 lux in the middle and up to 6-7 closer to the wall lights or telly so I'm assuming that's fairly dark in camera terms, anyway things are looking better now, thought I would let you know in case someone else has a similar problem.
Fireplace is 2 lux if anything a tad bright so i reduced the exposure and sharpened it a tad.
Again thanks for the advice.
 

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