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Andrew
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Is anyone here using the software called FoCal. Does it really do what it says does it all automatic for you when camera connected to the comp? Or would I still need to input the value onto the camera?
 
There is a very small amount of interaction but the majority of the process is automatic ... where you need to do something it will tell you what to do.
Remember it needs good light to get a successful reading and adjustment.
 
I've used it since its inception in 2011 Andrew and, whilst some people seem to have problems, I can't fault it.....it's been worth every penny.

Bob
 
There is a list on the focal site as to which bodies use AFMA. IIRC only the d3s does of the Nikon bodies
 
Got it last weekend, gets a bit mind numbing. Changing the valves but i did do 4 lenses on the trot.

Mine got stuck a few times and kept saying enter a value even thou i had.

Just waiting for better light so i can do the sigma 150-600
 
Hi, Couple questions for those that have used it. Does it make that much differance to the focus accuracy of the lenses to camera body? As an amature is the differance between the plus and pro a must have the pro version?
Thanks
Russ
 
Hi, Couple questions for those that have used it. Does it make that much differance to the focus accuracy of the lenses to camera body? As an amature is the differance between the plus and pro a must have the pro version?
Thanks
Russ

The Pro version just gives you some extra reports, sharpest aperture etc, so probably not needed
 
The Pro version is also needed if you a lens such as the 150-600?
 
Well not really if you just do up to 400mm

FoCal Plus will NOT allow calibration of lenses or a combination of lens & teleconverter with an effective focal length longer than 400mm. For this, you will require FoCal Pro.
 
OK. Thanks, longest lens I have is the 70-200mm so think I'll give it a try. Russ
 
Yes you can get Plus if you ever need to go for Pro they will upgrade you and you just pay the difference
 
Reason being pls?
For that lens (after several tries), the software recommended a micro-adjustment of +2 to get a sharp image. This was from a distance of around 4.5 metres. In reality, I find that with my camera and lens, an adjustment of +5 give much sharper results.
 
For that lens (after several tries), the software recommended a micro-adjustment of +2 to get a sharp image. This was from a distance of around 4.5 metres. In reality, I find that with my camera and lens, an adjustment of +5 give much sharper results.
Given that each unit of MA is 1/8 of the single sided depth of focus then it's hard to imagine how a difference of just 3 units could be perceived as "much sharper" provided that the lighting temperature for the test closely matched that of your real world shots.
 
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