Beginner Focus on 35mm 1.8

Lauraloo83

Lauraloo83

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Laura
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Hi I got a second hand lens last week and for some reason I can't seem to make the images sharp. Are these lens more sensitive than the 18-55 kit lens I got? Is there a technique I need to try or could it be the lens itself? View attachment 44455
 
Do you have the exif data? i.e. aperture, shutter speed, iso etc ... ?

The 18-55 will say in the lens name, it will include VR (assuming Nikon) or IS if Canon (not sure if Canon do a stabilised kit lens ...).
 
I can't see the EXIF data which tells me what the settings were - do you happen to know?

That said, the photos look sharp enough given the resolution you have posted them at. They look like they were shot at f/1.8 and so the depth of field will be very shallow and that lens lacks a little contrast wide open (although is better than the kit lens), also at that shallow depth of field you have to be very careful about focus as if you move back and forwards the narrow plane of focus can shift from where you want it to be.
 
PaulButler said:
Do you have the exif data? i.e. aperture, shutter speed, iso etc ... ?

The 18-55 will say in the lens name, it will include VR (assuming Nikon) or IS if Canon (not sure if Canon do a stabilised kit lens ...).
Click to expand...

The kit one does say VR. So where does that leave me, do I need to practice much more or do I need to sell and start again?
 
I think, in the nicest possible way, you probably need to learn to use the kit you have.

Shooting at f/1.8, especially at close range isn't as simple as pointing a kit lens at something and missing focus is all too easy.
 
It is a case of practicing some. The depth of field (DoF) is very small when using wide apertures such as f1.8 so any slight miss will be exaggerated some. Worth having a play and look around here http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

It doesn't look a million miles off, next time try one at f1.8 and say f5.6 - also make sure you use the hood (if you weren't) as it will help improve contrast some.
 
Ok no that's fair enough. Do you think I should pack away the 35 and use the kit one until I've got it a bit more?
 
You've missed focus, pure and simple. Are you choosing the focus point or allowing the camera too?
 
This is really frustrating as I genuinely thought I was. I press the shutter down half, make sure the red dot is on the subject and then fire. Ahhhh I'm never going to get it :(
 
Lauraloo83 said:
This is really frustrating as I genuinely thought I was. I press the shutter down half, make sure the red dot is on the subject and then fire. Ahhhh I'm never going to get it :(
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Of course you will. It takes practice is all. Try f5.6 and you will have more room for error (and you really could do with the hood - despite my esteemed forum member saying otherwise - particularly if you wish to use this lens at f1.8 :)). Which focus settings are you using? Single point is best to start ime.
 
PaulButler said:
Of course you will. It takes practice is all. Try f5.6 and you will have more room for error (and you really could do with the hood - despite my esteemed forum member saying otherwise - particularly if you wish to use this lens at f1.8 :)). Which focus settings are you using? Single point is best to start ime.
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I don't think I have any other options than single point? It's an 11 point sensor.
 
I'd agree with Paul. A hood is good :) They only cost a pound or two delivered to your door.
In the first pic I can see the light shining off the car roof in the background and on your son's hair. It looks as if you are
shooting into the sun. This is where a hood comes in handy to keep stray light out and increase contrast.
 
PaulButler said:
Of course you will. It takes practice is all. Try f5.6 and you will have more room for error (and you really could do with the hood - despite my esteemed forum member saying otherwise - particularly if you wish to use this lens at f1.8 :)). Which focus settings are you using? Single point is best to start ime.
Click to expand...


Never used a hood on my 35mm and never had any issues with it. In my experience, lenses that need a hood come with one. Rather than buying more stuff, the op just needs to learn how to use what she has.
 
Lauraloo83 said:
I don't think I have any other options than single point? It's an 11 point sensor.
Click to expand...
You have four modes available Single-point AF, dynamic-area AF, auto-area AF, 3D-tracking (11 points) - for narrow DoF (i.e. f1.8 at fairly close range) single point is best and use the direction pad on the back to position it :)
 
Lauraloo83 said:
Just the one but I have 11 white dots to chose from [emoji3]
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Sounds like you have that right for now :) so practice. Try and keep as steady as poss when shooting, even the smallest movement back and forth can cause you to miss focus.
 
At f/1.8 any bad technique will be greatly magnified. Any slight movement in the subject or by you will mean the focus is lost.

Try putting the camera on a tripod or on a solid surface and set the timer and then focus on a set point on a static subject. If it's still out of focus, then the lens is front or back focusing. If it's in focus, then It's your technique.
 
PaulButler said:
You have four modes available Single-point AF, dynamic-area AF, auto-area AF, 3D-tracking (11 points) - for narrow DoF (i.e. f1.8 at fairly close range) single point is best and use the direction pad on the back to position it :)
Click to expand...
The options I have are auto servo af, single-servo af, continuous servo af and manual focus
 
Lauraloo83 said:
The options I have are auto servo af, single-servo af, continuous servo af and manual focus
Click to expand...

Those are the drive modes, not the focus modes. They control how it focuses, not where. You want to find Af area mode in the menu.
 
TCR4x4 said:
At f/1.8 any bad technique will be greatly magnified. Any slight movement in the subject or by you will mean the focus is lost.

Try putting the camera on a tripod or on a solid surface and set the timer and then focus on a set point on a static subject. If it's still out of focus, then the lens is front or back focusing. If it's in focus, then It's your technique.
Click to expand...
I've just been looking at my images and it seems all animals or mini humans are out of focus and objects I think are in focus. Perhaps I need to increase aperture as you suggested before. The only shame is I wanted the shallow depth of field to creat the bohek effect I've seen. [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]
 
Lauraloo83 said:
The options I have are auto servo af, single-servo af, continuous servo af and manual focus
Click to expand...
Sorry I may have confused you, Nikon can use some confusing terminology, and what you state is how the camera controls focus, what I meant was how you use the auto focus sensors - so my bad there. However if you have the camera set to only take a picture when focus is achieved you can set your focus mode to be AF-C which may help, for moving targets that is how I set mine up :)
 
TCR4x4 said:
Never used a hood on my 35mm and never had any issues with it. In my experience, lenses that need a hood come with one. Rather than buying more stuff, the op just needs to learn how to use what she has.
Click to expand...
Not all lenses that require a hood come with one. This lens is a 35mm, about 50mm equivalent on FF.
I always use a hood with 50mm on a FF, I'd be daft not to :)

Seriously, you should try one, Tom.
 
It's a cracking lens, you need to use it properly. This was taken with it and a Nikon d3100.

 
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