For those that have micro adjusted their Canon.

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Rich
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Ok this is purely aimed at those that have. Which method did you use? Yes I want to try it out on my 50D with my 70-200, and again with the 1.4 T/C. I read a few topics from people all claiming the method they used was the best, test targets, head on or 45deg. The moire method on an LCD, ruler charts.I would be interested to hear your opinions on this.
Thanks
 
Well looks like I might be the first then :lol:
 
I tried the moire method & couldn't see it :D

I'm going to try it using an angled brick wall with the camera on a Tripod.
 
The usual advice is not to bother with a zoom as the thing will vary up and down its length anyway...
 
I tried the moire method & couldn't see it :D

I'm going to try it using an angled brick wall with the camera on a Tripod.

So are you going to use a target on the wall or some kind of markers?
If you would like to post your results back here it would be great. I was going to do mine today but something has come up and I dont want to rush doing the camera, I like to usually read four or five times and then proceed :D
 
I had a go at doing mine just after I bought it, but as a previous poster has already commented, it's not worth the effort with zooms, as you can only apply one adjustment across the whole focal range - typically a zoom will need different adjustments depending on the length you are using.

I ended up taking the view that if I got it tack sharp at 70, I may end up throwing off the 200mm end more than before, so I stopped and left it as it is for the zooms.

I have done a couple of my primes, and tried both the 45 degree target approach (with a printed target, many examples off the internet), and with a flat target - both worked just as well as each other in the end, and the flat target was easier to setup for me.
 
Michael Tapes of Raw Workflow has just released Lens Align for just this purpose.

http://www.rawworkflow.com/lensalign/

Don't know of availability in the UK, The Pro version has a price tag of $140 no idea of the "lite" versions price.
 
Blimey I wish I'd thought of selling public domain test sheets stuck onto a bit of plastic for $140!
 
The usual advice is not to bother with a zoom as the thing will vary up and down its length anyway...
Thanks for the advice, I might try and delve a bit deeper as a couple of places I have read up on it have applied it to zooms and claim better results, I shall tread carefully :naughty:

Blimey I wish I'd thought of selling public domain test sheets stuck onto a bit of plastic for $140!
Yeh and if you had, that poor guy would be out of work :lol::lol:
 
I'm quite happy with the results of my 50D with all my lenses so as the saying goes "if it ain't broke why fix it" or "I am not even going near it"

In any case the manual recommends not messing about with this feature unless you find it really necessary:shrug:
 
I'm quite happy with the results of my 50D with all my lenses so as the saying goes "if it ain't broke why fix it" or "I am not even going near it"

In any case the manual recommends not messing about with this feature unless you find it really necessary:shrug:

^^^ Well said. Dangerous game ;)
 
And is that comment based on your experience Richard? ;)

Yes. I have bought about a dozen lenses in recent years. Mainly Canon, but also Sigma, and an old Tamron superzoom.

In use, I have never detected a significant focus error that was down to the camera or lens. But out of curiosity I have done a few focus tests, including the infamous A4 sheet of paper shot at 45 degs. That is where many people go wrong, and it is the bane of camera service centres everywhere.

While in theory that test should work, it is mega critical beyond necessity and in practise it is unreliable for several reasons, and also prone to user error. I can see how easy it is for this test to lead people to believe they have a problem when in fact they haven't. The result is that they send their camera back for calibration, it is checked by the manufacturer to be fine, and returned with an invoice.

This is not a good situation for anybody, and I believe that the micro-focus user adjustment feature is there largely to address this particular issue. So that people can do it for themselves, without any cost, and put it back if they need to. Of course this is not always the case, and some cameras and/or lenses are not as good as they should be from the factory. But this is very much the exception.

Because I am interested in this sort of thing, I have devised my own test which is much more real world relevant. It works fine, and so do my cameras and lenses.

All I would say is, unless you have noticed a problem in actual picture taking, why are you testing it? But if you're just curious, make sure your test is relevant and bear in mind that these are analogue devices, and adjusted to operate within an acceptable tolerance range.
 
Thanks Richard, I appreciate your time for posting. No disrespect to anyone but I preferre it when I am given a more in depth reason as why I should not do something. :thumbs:
 
Played with the adjustment quite a few times with various lens on the camera and soon came to the conclusion that none of the various "test card" type methods actually transfer into an improvement in image sharpness (for me). But I did find that if I make adjustments using the actual scene/subject that I wish to record I CAN get an improvement. Not all of my lens needed any adjustment, but for those that do I have found that method (for me) can give results. I guess that different test/set-up methods will suit different people.

Re. zoom adjustment, yes I agree different focal lengths will need different adjustments - but having played about with the settings I now know which lens I can leave on a "universal" setting and which lens I need a specific setting for each end of the focal range.

I have found (for me) that wide angle zoom lens need the most adjustment, and telephoto prime lens need the least. Whether this is due to the actual lens manufacture or the increased depth of field with the wideangles (coupled with the tolerances of the canon autofocus points) is another question. Or it could be operator error ... :)
 
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