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Fotospeed Chromium Intensifier
- Thread starter Kev M
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- Nick (yes there is more than one of us)
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Yes I used to use Potassium Dichromate and Hydrochloric Acid in the labs. Basically always wear gloves and don't breath the stuff in. Potassium Dichromate is particularly nasty.
Other than that I believe it can help in making thin negs more dense.
Other than that I believe it can help in making thin negs more dense.
fixedimage
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Just what I was thinking, chromium intensifier is - as far as I was aware - for when you pull a film out a tank and something's gone wrong and you want to rescue it or for negs that have degraded due to storage/age. It shouldn't become part of your regular darkroom or devving routine.
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Don't get me wrong, I know I've got a bigger issue to sort out but I could do with rescuing these particular negs as they were from a TFP shoot with a model.
I thought I'd got my metering problem sorted and the two other films I sent away to be processed at the same time are a bit think but definitely usable but the other two rolls in question are a joke. I'm wondering if I've got a dicky lens to contend with too.
I thought I'd got my metering problem sorted and the two other films I sent away to be processed at the same time are a bit think but definitely usable but the other two rolls in question are a joke. I'm wondering if I've got a dicky lens to contend with too.
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- mark
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ohh, cheers for this, could be mega handy, might get myself some 
fixedimage
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I see you're a bronny user, take it your battery is ok?
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Yeah I think so. I replaced it recently and the light comes on every time, the meter works (albeit it's 2 stops out and wasn't used for the rolls in question).
I wish I could remember what shutter speed I was using because if I was shooting at 1/250 then the only way the shutter could give me problems is by defaulting to 1/500 but I think they're more than 1 stop under exposed.
There could be another cause in this instance too. I was using an orange filter and when I checked online for the exposure compensation there were varying answers. I took a photo of a grey card with my DSLR and then added the filter and changed the exposure until the histogram looked roughly the same. I wonder if the film responded to the filter in a different way to the DSLR:shrug:
I wish I could remember what shutter speed I was using because if I was shooting at 1/250 then the only way the shutter could give me problems is by defaulting to 1/500 but I think they're more than 1 stop under exposed.
There could be another cause in this instance too. I was using an orange filter and when I checked online for the exposure compensation there were varying answers. I took a photo of a grey card with my DSLR and then added the filter and changed the exposure until the histogram looked roughly the same. I wonder if the film responded to the filter in a different way to the DSLR:shrug:
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- Guy Boden
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You should allow 2 stops for an orange filter with B&W film AFAIK.
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Have used it, but more selectively - when learning on other people's negatives
Not on something so small as 35mm though. You'd need to be a pixey to be able to manoeuvre the brush to paint over the negative!
it might be worth trying if you have larger negatives. Generally, you can increase your development by 10-20% if you are getting thin negatives....with your Bronica, try setting everything in manual, rather than auto if you use the prism. I remember I used one and it defaulted to 1/500th too.