Fuji X-T1/X-T2/X-T3/X-T10 Owners Thread

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5,685
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Paul
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Anyone using flash with their XT range?

Heard some good things about Godox, currently use Yongnuo triggers and 2x SB900's off camera. Thinking of a couple of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Godox-TT68...ds=godox+fuji&qid=1562523399&s=gateway&sr=8-3 and this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Godox-XPro...ds=godox+fuji&qid=1562523399&s=gateway&sr=8-6 to replace. Any thoughts or personal experience?
I have the 685, and X1 trigger. They work fine, and pretty easy to set up. The portrait of my daughter (couple of pages back) was with them out doors for a little fill flash. I would say they are about the same spec as my old D800`s, other than the 5th battery, and no diffuser.
 
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Hi Ho Silver away !
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@rick448 and @Jelster you both have hit the nail firmly on the head, my 100-400 is sharp as a razor, so I recon I should do what I should have done in the shop...…..buy one , 50-140 coming this way.

You will love the 50-140mm as mine is now back on my X-T3.
 
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MIKE
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Has anyone had any issues with corrupt files? My XT-3 is chucking out some rather odd .RAF files when importing to lightroom giving some images a purple cast and shifting parts of the image. The images render fine in camera so wondering it it is a lightroom problem?

I have not had the corrupt files issue that you have had - but the fuji xt3 file are like no other camera I have owned.

They take ages to open in bridge - they come up bright on the screen and then go much darker - they then take between 10 and thirty seconds to pop and seem muddy.

Also the difference between the raw and jpg from the camera is remarkable. I do not like the rendering of the jpg.

DSCF3031 jpg crop no editing.jpg
jpg crop no editing

DSCF3031 raf file crop adjust and sharpen.jpg
raf file crop edited


DSCF3031 raw crop no editing.jpg
raf file crop no editing



I have tried setting the camera to velvia and with this setting the files take even longer to open in bridge.

But if I open them in photo mechanic on imac they look much better and open instantly - the same goes when I open them in faststone on a windows computer.

Perhaps you could try to view your files in either of these programs - faststone is free for windows ( it is windows only ) or you can get a free trile of photo mechanic for mac.

One thing that I have noticed - I keep getting a card error message on the xt3 with my sandisk extreme pro 128gb 300mb/s card - i have a bit of a fiddle with the camera and it then works ok
 
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Steve
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@rick448 and @Jelster you both have hit the nail firmly on the head, my 100-400 is sharp as a razor, so I recon I should do what I should have done in the shop...…..buy one , 50-140 coming this way.

The reason why both are essential...

50-140: Indoors, available light only, f3.2, 140mm, 1/20 sec ISO 3200, handheld.

Fizz_22
by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

100-400: f8, 560mm (with 1.4TC) 1/750 sec ISO 3200, handheld.

Mrs Sparrow2
by Steve Jelly, on Flickr

Both lenses are outstanding, and if you like to shoot with a telephoto, both need to be in your arsenal. I have a lot of shots at 560mm as I like shooting wildlife. Whilst I would love a 600mm f5.6 from Fuji, the 100-400 with the TC is as good, if not better than my previous Sigma 150-600 Sport (and a lot lighter!).
 
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Dave
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Had something similar with other cameras but it was the card. May be try with a third formatted card or just using one card slot?
I am looking at some new cards now to try, I don't want to reformat the current cards to test yet in case it turns out I can do something with the files on them. But what cards are recommended? I know the Sandisk UHS-II cards are the default recommendation, but they are a bit on the pricey side. is 300mb/s really needed for shooting stills? Saying that, maybe it would help when doing timelapses/startrails.


I tried an image stack in Affinity photo using RAF files, they came out with a weird tint. Think you have to be careful what software you use with Fuji. Capture One is good, if I want to stack images now, I convert them to jpeg in Capture One, then carry out the stack in Affinity photo using the jpegs.
I have never had any problem with Fuji files before, I have been using the XT-3 since release with no issues like this.
 
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I tried an image stack in Affinity photo using RAF files, they came out with a weird tint. Think you have to be careful what software you use with Fuji. Capture One is good, if I want to stack images now, I convert them to jpeg in Capture One, then carry out the stack in Affinity photo using the jpegs.
LR or PS for image stacking, works fine for me.
 
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I am looking at some new cards now to try, I don't want to reformat the current cards to test yet in case it turns out I can do something with the files on them. But what cards are recommended? I know the Sandisk UHS-II cards are the default recommendation, but they are a bit on the pricey side. is 300mb/s really needed for shooting stills? Saying that, maybe it would help when doing timelapses/startrails.
Bearing in mind I have a pair of T2's (not 3's) my current cards are SanDisk Extreme Pro, 64GB, 95MB/s. They are fine at the higher rate of continuous when shooting wildlife (but I rarely shoot at this rate) and I've used them for video as well.

After use & images have been downloaded, they get formatted in camera (so about twice a week).
 
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Pete
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I am looking at some new cards now to try, I don't want to reformat the current cards to test yet in case it turns out I can do something with the files on them. But what cards are recommended? I know the Sandisk UHS-II cards are the default recommendation, but they are a bit on the pricey side. is 300mb/s really needed for shooting stills? Saying that, maybe it would help when doing timelapses/startrails.



I have never had any problem with Fuji files before, I have been using the XT-3 since release with no issues like this.
I use these in the XT-3, fantastic cards, zero issues.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Transcend-...d+uhs-ii&qid=1562573712&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
 
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Dave
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Bearing in mind I have a pair of T2's (not 3's) my current cards are SanDisk Extreme Pro, 64GB, 95MB/s. They are fine at the higher rate of continuous when shooting wildlife (but I rarely shoot at this rate) and I've used them for video as well.

After use & images have been downloaded, they get formatted in camera (so about twice a week).
My current cards are the sandisk extremes (non pro version) with a 150mb/s write speed. Other than this current issue, they have been fine. No problem writing fast bursts of images, but I have noticed when doing astro stuff with ~20-30 second exposures continuously there seems to be s very long processing time for each image before it starts capturing the next which I have thought may leave 'gaps' between the images. Not sure if this is down tot he cards or the cameras own internal buffer, or even whether it is actually an issue at all. I don't do enough to have properly tested it.
 
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Steve
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My current cards are the sandisk extremes (non pro version) with a 150mb/s write speed. Other than this current issue, they have been fine. No problem writing fast bursts of images, but I have noticed when doing astro stuff with ~20-30 second exposures continuously there seems to be s very long processing time for each image before it starts capturing the next which I have thought may leave 'gaps' between the images. Not sure if this is down tot he cards or the cameras own internal buffer, or even whether it is actually an issue at all. I don't do enough to have properly tested it.
Have you got the long exposure noise reduction switched on? If you do a 30 sec exposure, it takes a 2nd exposure of 30 secs to reduce the noise. I would suggest that's what's taking the time.
 
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Stuart
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So clearly I have been away from Fuji short enough to remember my way around the majority of the camera settings as its just like when I had the XT1.

Sadly though I have also been away long enough to forget a basic thing such as turn the lens IS off when tripod shooting long exposures two nights ago.

Result......... bar one image which is still a tad soft, a complete set of images wasted :banghead:
 
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11,953
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Keith
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So clearly I have been away from Fuji short enough to remember my way around the majority of the camera settings as its just like when I had the XT1.

Sadly though I have also been away long enough to forget a basic thing such as turn the lens IS off when tripod shooting long exposures two nights ago.

Result......... bar one image which is still a tad soft, a complete set of images wasted :banghead:
A lot of people forget to switch it off when using a tripod - you sure it wasn't tripod shake? were you using a timer or remote?
 
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Pete
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A lot better looking at it on Flickr, you seem to have a white line down the right side too.
Yeah the compression on here is awful, beginning to think it might be better to just post links as unless people click through to flickr it looks like every shot is OOF.

Don't see a white line ?
 
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Hi Ho Silver away !
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Yeah the compression on here is awful, beginning to think it might be better to just post links as unless people click through to flickr it looks like every shot is OOF.

Don't see a white line ?
Strange as it has gone now, as saw it was with the 50-140mm and now no EXIF data.
 
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David
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So clearly I have been away from Fuji short enough to remember my way around the majority of the camera settings as its just like when I had the XT1.

Sadly though I have also been away long enough to forget a basic thing such as turn the lens IS off when tripod shooting long exposures two nights ago.

Result......... bar one image which is still a tad soft, a complete set of images wasted :banghead:
Either put a label on your tripod, or I work the other way, turn it on when I need it!
 
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Simon
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As I have bought something off the refurb site, I have a 5% discount code someone can use (I think I also get 5% off next purchase as part of the referral thing they are doing). PM me if you would like to make use of it.
 
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Definitely not tripod shake (it was firmly bedded into the rocks) and the remote was in use.
I guess this is a case where chimping can make a difference. I d it a lot for macro images, zoom in on previews to check sharpness as they can look fine in the standard view but detail is critical for macro, same for landscapes
 
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Had a little venture down to the local ish lavender fields ...

Fenced in
by Paulie-W, on Flickr

First of all I thought it was a bit dark, but that actually really works to get the fence "right". Cracking shot... Not sure what it is with Fuji & purple flowers, but they really seem to work well.
 
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Dave
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Well I seem to have resolved the corrupted image issue. It seems to be a dodgy card reader (or usb cable, or usb PCI card), more testing needed to confirm exactly which.

But downloading directly from the camera, using a different cable and one of the front usb ports on my PC rather than the rear and all seems to be OK. So that will be a spare set of cards on the way then, rather than replacements. :LOL:
 
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Steve
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Well I seem to have resolved the corrupted image issue. It seems to be a dodgy card reader (or usb cable, or usb PCI card), more testing needed to confirm exactly which.

But downloading directly from the camera, using a different cable and one of the front usb ports on my PC rather than the rear and all seems to be OK. So that will be a spare set of cards on the way then, rather than replacements. :LOL:
Can never have too many cards... I have 64GB cards in both bodies, but also have a "spare" set of 32GB cards should I need them. I've yet to fill up a 64GB card.....
 
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Paul
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First of all I thought it was a bit dark, but that actually really works to get the fence "right". Cracking shot... Not sure what it is with Fuji & purple flowers, but they really seem to work well.
Thanks mate. The light was all over the place last night too, which didn't help matters ;)
 
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