Fuji x100/S/T/F Owners Thread

Mark Dell said:
Yep all works fine with X100F firmware update and if you remember to put in the SSID number from the printer into the camera instax settings....:(:fuji:
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Thanks. Do you tweak the raw image to recreate a JPEG before printing. At the minute they look a bit washed out and not pin sharp
 
Hi I develop the raw in camera if shooting raw and drop the exposure by about 1.5 stops
Then print.
I usually shoot jpeg most of the time so I WiFi it to my my phone and use the app to do the same
 
OK, I don't expect any housepoints here so let's get that straight. I was in Chichester yesterday and while the OH went shopping, I tried my luck in the Cathedral. I was wanting to do a vertical stitch panorama but forgot some fundamental principles - namely that in order to do this I need to keep my field of view parallel for each of the images. But I didn't, I just turned and so we have a distorted image. Never mind, I know what to do next time and I kind of like this despite the faults:-

Chichester%20Panorama_1024px_zpsehxlefpv.jpg


X100F with WCL
 
Could anyone give me some advice on how to set up for nighttime HDR images please. I've not done this before but wanted to experiment. Did so and failed abysmally!

I was shooting 3 images with +/1 EV bracketing and then merging in Affinity photo. What I got was very noisy shadows and not the 'pop' I see on some of the images here.

Technical errors I noticed was using too high ISO and things in the image subject to motion over extended exposures.

Appreciate each image will require its own parameters but wondered if anyone had a good foundation from which to start? I looked for threads but most seemed to focus on the aesthetic and personal preference in post processing rather than the fundamentals.

Thanks in advance
 
Sniffer said:
Could anyone give me some advice on how to set up for nighttime HDR images please. I've not done this before but wanted to experiment. Did so and failed abysmally!

I was shooting 3 images with +/1 EV bracketing and then merging in Affinity photo. What I got was very noisy shadows and not the 'pop' I see on some of the images here.

Technical errors I noticed was using too high ISO and things in the image subject to motion over extended exposures.

Appreciate each image will require its own parameters but wondered if anyone had a good foundation from which to start? I looked for threads but most seemed to focus on the aesthetic and personal preference in post processing rather than the fundamentals.

Thanks in advance
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Hi,

1. Tripod
2. Self timer or remote release
3. ISO 200
4. RAW format

That should nail it for you [emoji106]
 
Sniffer said:
Could anyone give me some advice on how to set up for nighttime HDR images please. I've not done this before but wanted to experiment. Did so and failed abysmally!

I was shooting 3 images with +/1 EV bracketing and then merging in Affinity photo. What I got was very noisy shadows and not the 'pop' I see on some of the images here.

Technical errors I noticed was using too high ISO and things in the image subject to motion over extended exposures.

Appreciate each image will require its own parameters but wondered if anyone had a good foundation from which to start? I looked for threads but most seemed to focus on the aesthetic and personal preference in post processing rather than the fundamentals.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Greggster said:
Hi,

1. Tripod
2. Self timer or remote release
3. ISO 200
4. RAW format

That should nail it for you [emoji106]
Click to expand...

Cough....

X100F
Handheld
No Timer/Release
ISO 5000
3 shot bracketed exposure


Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio a Fontana di Trevi 01 2000px by David Yeoman, on Flickr

I'm out (running workshops today), but I'll post in more detail tomorrow on how to get good bracketed results from the X-Trans III sensors, and some advice on the high ISO shooting, sorry in a bit of a rush today.

But @Greggster is right, his parameters are a good place to start.
 
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Soho sunrise.

A rooftop view looking across London from Soho.
The one perk of my day job is that I get access to various rooftops around London.
It would have been nice to have a lens with some reach, Just to zoom in on landmarks a bit.
But working with a fixed lens means finding ways to compensate for this, and I enjoy that process.
Also, this is a crop, not a Pano.

X100

untitled-3351.jpg
 
@Sniffer , OK, so here are the promised words on shooting bracketed with the X100F, to add a shameless plug to this post, I do run a specific Fuji X Low Light Techniques workshop, I won't put a link here as that will contravene forum rules, but it's not too hard to find!!!

Anyway back to the X100F and bracketed images, as @Greggster said, Tripod, Low ISO, Self Timer/Remote Release and RAW is the way to go. I use Lightroom to Merge the resultant images and then adjust to suit, often the resultant image exposure needs to be adjusted to get something that looks right.

On the X-T2 you can do a 9 bracketed exposure with a single shutter press, this can be very useful as it can significantly increase the dynamic range, very useful inside churches etc where you can retain stained glass detail as well as making the rest of the interior clearly visible.

You can replicate this on the X100F. Set the Exposure Compensation to Custom (giving -5 to +5 range) - now the front dial provides the adjustment. Take the first shot an 0 with a bracketing range of +/-1, then adjust the compensation to +3, repeat, and then again at -3 and repeat, you will now have shots from -4 to + 4. This only really works on a tripod. Helpful hint, sometimes its best to merge a selection of images in Lightroom, rather than all 9, perhaps the darkest 7 images, this will require a bit of experimentation, depending on shot taken.

Nine shot examples (X-T2)


170929 Liverpool Cathedral Lady Chapel 2000px by David Yeoman, on Flickr


171211 Salford Quays 06 by David Yeoman, on Flickr


However there are times when you can't use a tripod (inside most buildings for example), so you have to work handheld, a few things here:-

1) Don't be scared of high ISO, especially with the 'F' (X-Trans3), learn to deal with the noise

2) Set a reasonably high shutter speed (until you get used to holding camera still), this gives the 3 images a chance of little movement between frames, Lightroom will re-align. My walkabout setting for my X100F is Auto ISO to 6400 and min shutter speed 1/200

3) If you get close to the min shutter speed and have Auto ISO set the camera will adjust the ISO, this isn't good or bad, its just something you need to be aware of.

4) Handholding an X100 series camera for a 3 bracketed exposure is much easier than something like an X-T2, which is noticeably heavier

5) Squeeze the shutter very gently (or use a 2 sec timer), a soft release helps here

3 shot handheld - ISO 3200


Sant Ignazio di Loyola 01 2000px by David Yeoman, on Flickr

Hope that helps
 
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Hi David

Thanks very much for taking the time to offer such detailed guidance. Really appreciated.

Cheers

Dave
 
Greggster said:
Nice dog, (cockerpoo? - I’ve got one, she’s a crazy mental clown [emoji3]).

Looks like the dogs nose and the sofa are on the same plane? If so maybe the dog moved and the sofa didn’t? Try a smaller aperture or a static subject to test your technique. Hope this helps.

Edit - just followed the link and you shot at f2, try stopping down a couple, should still give you some bokeh but a larger depth of field [emoji106]
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Thanks very much, yes he's a cockerpoo, my sister in laws, treated like a baby !!!
 
Back from a weeks holiday where I only took the X100F, have to say I'm very pleased with it...certainly the lighter load was very welcome. In fact I liked it that much I'm thinking I may sell one of my Nikon bodies and return to an X-Pro2 as a playmate to the F, had one previously but sold all my Fuji kit when I jumped over to Nikon. :rolleyes:


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr
 
wibbly said:
Back from a weeks holiday where I only took the X100F, have to say I'm very pleased with it...certainly the lighter load was very welcome. In fact I liked it that much I'm thinking I may sell one of my Nikon bodies and return to an X-Pro2 as a playmate to the F, had one previously but sold all my Fuji kit when I jumped over to Nikon. :rolleyes:


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr
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Hate to tell you I told you so ... :p
 
wibbly said:
Back from a weeks holiday where I only took the X100F, have to say I'm very pleased with it...certainly the lighter load was very welcome. In fact I liked it that much I'm thinking I may sell one of my Nikon bodies and return to an X-Pro2 as a playmate to the F, had one previously but sold all my Fuji kit when I jumped over to Nikon. :rolleyes:


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr


FilzmoosX100F by Dave Young, on Flickr
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Three lovely shots Sir, particularly liking #2 & #3, well composed and nicely exposed with detail in highlights & shadows.(y)

George.
 
Stephen L said:
Hate to tell you I told you so ... :p
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Haha! I have shot quite a bit with Fuji before ;) To be honest I still don’t think the IQ is as good as Nikon and processing is more difficult but the advantages of weight and wandering around with a small camera outweigh the negatives.
 
wibbly said:
Haha! I have shot quite a bit with Fuji before ;) To be honest I still don’t think the IQ is as good as Nikon and processing is more difficult but the advantages of weight and wandering around with a small camera outweigh the negatives.
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It's a pity you can't shove a Nikon sensor in a Fuji.

Been using my X100T alongside my D750 today and I can't fault the Fuji's IQ, colours and look... until I put up some Nikon files next to them. It's possibly better for black and white though.

_DL32070.jpg
 
I've tried to use a circular polarizer on my X100F but it was a complete PITA. I had to abandon the lenshood altogether as I couldn't rotate the filter with the lenshood fitted. Has anyone here tried using a Linear Polariser on the X100?? Do these still need to be rotated to optimise the polarization when fitted to the lens?? I'm aware that I don't actually need a Circular Polarizer on a mirrorless camera BTW but I've never used a Linear one.
 
Rosedalelad said:
I've tried to use a circular polarizer on my X100F but it was a complete PITA. I had to abandon the lenshood altogether as I couldn't rotate the filter with the lenshood fitted. Has anyone here tried using a Linear Polariser on the X100?? Do these still need to be rotated to optimise the polarization when fitted to the lens?? I'm aware that I don't actually need a Circular Polarizer on a mirrorless camera BTW but I've never used a Linear one.
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work ok on your new XT2 :LOL::ROFLMAO:
 
Rosedalelad said:
I've tried to use a circular polarizer on my X100F but it was a complete PITA. I had to abandon the lenshood altogether as I couldn't rotate the filter with the lenshood fitted. Has anyone here tried using a Linear Polariser on the X100?? Do these still need to be rotated to optimise the polarization when fitted to the lens?? I'm aware that I don't actually need a Circular Polarizer on a mirrorless camera BTW but I've never used a Linear one.
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Yes, all polarisers need to be rotated. You might not need a hood for a typical polariser shot (the effect is most pronounced at right angles to the sun), but if you want to attach both it's probably best to get a hood that fits the front filter thread of the polariser.
 
It's as I thought then, a linear one will be as much bother as my current circular one - I might as well continue with the one I have. Thanks for the info though
 
Rosedalelad said:
It's as I thought then, a linear one will be as much bother as my current circular one - I might as well continue with the one I have. Thanks for the info though
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Circular and Linear Polariser can be the same shape. It’s all to do with the light wave and it’s behaviour.

This is shamefully stolen from another site

Autofocus SLRs and DSLRs almost universally use a half-silvered mirror called a "beam splitter" to send part of the light coming in from the lens up to the focus screen while the rest of the light continues on to the autofocus sensors.

Beam splitters tend to reflect a different percentage of the light depending on the light's polarization. A standard "linear" polarizer has polarized light coming out the back into the camera, so as you rotate it, the reflection percentage varies.

The built-in metering in almost all SLRs and DSLRs reads off of the focus screen. The meter is calibrated to expect a certain percentage of light to be reflected from the beam splitter. If a different percentage is reflected, the built-in metering will be off. If you're using auto-exposure based on that built-in metering, your exposure will be off.

A circular polarizer is a regular polarizer with a "depolarizing" layer on the back, so that the light going on to the mirror (and sensor) isn't polarized. This makes for predictable metering and auto-exposure.
 
Stephen L said:
Lovely colours and composition. Yes, for some reason, to me the X100F is crisper than the X-T2. Or appears so.
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I think this is down to lens choice, whatever Fuji have done they have optimised the 23mm in the F, it is way sharper (crisper) than it has a right to be (based on previous) X100 incarnations.

That said if you put sharp glass on the X-T2 (16mm, 23mmF1.4 or 90mm in my case), it is noticeably sharper. The 23mm F1.4 is sharper at F2 than the X100F is anywhere!!!!
 
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