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marlie

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Marlon
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Hi Guys,

Ive just ordered a Fuji X100f for the family stuff as its nice and light but im looking to buy a full frame DSLR for the more serious stuff. I will be using it mainly for Architecture/Landscapes/Cars.

My budget for the body only is £700.

What would you guys recommend?
 
If you can find a secondhand Canon 6D that will likely suit your needs as more modern than say an original 5D with more 'miles' on the shutter. But £700 AFAIK will limit your options in regard to body choice and the shutter count.
 
marlie said:
My budget for the body only is £700.

What would you guys recommend?
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Do you already have any equipment?

£700 for a FF will buy you something like a S/H D700 or a 5D MkII.

What's your budget for the whole kit though ... a camera body without lens is pointless!
 
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I guess he only have a budget of £700 for the body only, i would assume you got some budget for lens too.
 
Hmmm, the D700 appears to be 12.1mp but the 6D is 20.2mp, so quite a difference there, and the 6D also has well regarded low-light / high ISO performance. Of the two, I think the 6D might be better suited to the OPs brief of Architecture/Landscapes/Cars, if the budget could be stretched to the price of a good used one?
 
Yes would love a 6d if I can find a low shutter count one for the right price.
 
Depend how much budget he got for lens. Can't go wrong with D700 for the price you can buy today. I shoot with D3 and the iso quality is still capable today. The d700 has the same sensor as the D3. No right or wrong on this, if the 6D price is decent it is also worth considering as well. If money is tight the d700 is value for money.
 
PS. as an alternative, have you considered cancelling the X100F pre-order, and buying a X-Pro2 instead with the 23mm f/2 lens and others to suit your other interests? I know not the question you asked but thinking outside the box.

Sorry I don't know the OPs level of expertise so maybe they have considered this already ... but "What full frame camera should I buy?" is never really the right question (IMO). The questions should always be more "What camera (more specifically what combination of camera and lenses) will suit my photography needs?"
 
I'd consider cancelling the x100 order too and get a xpro2 or xt2 and forget about two cameras. It's more than enough for most people.
 
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You can get a full frame DSLR for £700, but as suggested, you might be better served by spending your whole budget on Fuji gear. Fuji do have lots of good lenses, though there aren't as many around second hand, so the prices are slightly higher, but if you're only buying one camera, you can spend more of the budget on lenses.

An X-Pro2 or X-T2 plus the 23mm f2 will get you approximately equivalent to the X100

Then add
Fuji 10-24mm - great wide angle for landscapes and architecture
Fuji 35mm f1.4 or f2 version


If you're set on a DSLR, the 6D is great, I'm very happy with mine which did cost £700 with only 9k clicks on it. Add a 17-40 f4 or 24-105mm f4 for £350 each.
 
If you are going to be serious about architecture then before long you will run into the dreaded converging verticals and while these can be sorted in PP the best way is the correct lens.
And that regrettably is a TS-E and they are not cheap
And that points you towards a Canon -you should get a used 5DMk2 for your budget but don't forget the tripod head.
My architectural set up is a 5Dmk2 with a Canon 24mm TS-E Mk2 on a Manfrotto 410 geared head.
It is also excellent for landscape panoramas.
 
I'd too consider dropping the FF DSLR route and going all Fuji.
Having moved from a Sony A7RII FF beast to a XT-2 I can't say I'm missing FF at all.
Certainly not missing the cost, weight and size associated with FF. :D
 
Can you actually tell the different between a FF and crop sensor when looking at a photo. I'm struggling to tell and difference on my Nikon D3 and Fuji XT1. Infact the Xt1 looks better ......

I'm also emotional attached to the D3 because I heavily invest in nikon .....

There is something about my Fuji XT1 and 18mm f2 and 35mm f2 prime that makes me keep coming back to use it.
 
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Fuguru said:
I'd too consider dropping the FF DSLR route and going all Fuji.
Having moved from a Sony A7RII FF beast to a XT-2 I can't say I'm missing FF at all.
Certainly not missing the cost, weight and size associated with FF. :D
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That's because you went for a high end Sony body and high end lenses which are some of the best mass market lenses on sale and just as per some of the other top end lenses such as the (cheaper) Sigma Art lenses all that goodness comes at the cost of money, bulk and weight.

Go the route I've gone down and choose a cheaper body and cheaper compact primes and the Fuji offers no significant advantage cost (arguable,) bulk and weight wise and a drop in IQ, if you go looking for the differences.

My point is... think about wants and needs.

badboy1984 said:
Can you actually tell the different between a FF and crop sensor when looking at a photo. I'm struggling to tell and difference on my Nikon D3 and Fuji XT1. Infact the Xt1 looks better ......

I'm also emotional attached to the D3 because I heavily invest in nikon .....

There is something about my Fuji XT1 and 18mm f2 and 35mm f2 prime that makes me keep coming back to use it.
Click to expand...

I'd say that in isolation just about anything can look good and that you have to look at pictures side by side to fully assess the differences and decide if they're significant.

The main differences for me are DR and noise when pushing to the limits and sharpness when looking closely. If these things matter is a personal decision.
 
troutfisher said:
If you are going to be serious about architecture then before long you will run into the dreaded converging verticals and while these can be sorted in PP the best way is the correct lens.
And that regrettably is a TS-E and they are not cheap.
Click to expand...

That is certainly the best way in terms of ultimate IQ and detail resolution. It is, however, quite beyond my pensioner's finances.

I tried some experiments with the IQ and detail resolution loss consequent on using PP to correct converging verticals and lens geometry deficiencies such as barrel and mustache distortion and decided that for my purposes a crop sensor, used at lowest ISO and on a tripod, gave me plenty of perspective corrected resolution for sharp detailed A4 prints, and if not too much correction was required, A3 prints. I found that for the kinds of correction I use I rarely lost more than 30% of image pixels in the correction.

Plus PP perspective (and geometry) correction gives me the equivalent of lens shift adjustments on every single one of my lenses. If you think one TS-E lens is expensive, consider how much a handful of them costs!
 
marlie said:
Hi Guys,

Ive just ordered a Fuji X100f for the family stuff as its nice and light but im looking to buy a full frame DSLR for the more serious stuff. I will be using it mainly for Architecture/Landscapes/Cars.

My budget for the body only is £700.

What would you guys recommend?
Click to expand...
Family is far more serious than those other things, someone else is already taking those photographs.
 
chris malcolm said:
That is certainly the best way in terms of ultimate IQ and detail resolution. It is, however, quite beyond my pensioner's finances.

I tried some experiments with the IQ and detail resolution loss consequent on using PP to correct converging verticals and lens geometry deficiencies such as barrel and mustache distortion and decided that for my purposes a crop sensor, used at lowest ISO and on a tripod, gave me plenty of perspective corrected resolution for sharp detailed A4 prints, and if not too much correction was required, A3 prints. I found that for the kinds of correction I use I rarely lost more than 30% of image pixels in the correction.

Plus PP perspective (and geometry) correction gives me the equivalent of lens shift adjustments on every single one of my lenses. If you think one TS-E lens is expensive, consider how much a handful of them costs!
Click to expand...

Well there are only 4 TS-E lenses, so a full set would only cost around £6K- not a lot if you say it quick and have won the lottery, but yes they are very specialised and expensive.
It was purely down to getting a used bargain that I got mine otherwise I would not have spent that sort of money.
Prior to getting one I used DxO software to correct verticals and found it surprisingly good, particularly on a crop camera.
I would really wonder about buying FF for your uses unless I was going for a TS-E.
I recently sold a load of Canon gear and switched to Fuji,I only have the 5D Mk2 and 3 lenses ( TS-E, Fisheye and have just bought a 17-40L because I still have the Canon gear ) which I have no intention of selling , they don't get much use but I cannot bring myself to part with them.
If I did not have those I would switch completely to Fuji and buy the 10-24mm.
 
troutfisher said:
Well there are only 4 TS-E lenses, so a full set would only cost around £6K- not a lot if you say it quick and have won the lottery, but yes they are very specialised and expensive.
It was purely down to getting a used bargain that I got mine otherwise I would not have spent that sort of money.
Prior to getting one I used DxO software to correct verticals and found it surprisingly good, particularly on a crop camera.
I would really wonder about buying FF for your uses unless I was going for a TS-E.
I recently sold a load of Canon gear and switched to Fuji,I only have the 5D Mk2 and 3 lenses ( TS-E, Fisheye and have just bought a 17-40L because I still have the Canon gear ) which I have no intention of selling , they don't get much use but I cannot bring myself to part with them.
If I did not have those I would switch completely to Fuji and buy the 10-24mm.
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There is a Samyang TS lens with a Fuji X mount, but it doesn't seem to be stocked in the UK, but there are some in Germany, not very wide angle on a crop sensor though
 
You can buy TS adapters that take any lens while adapting the mount type. Search Kipon tilt shift on eBay.
 
There are ways to photograph architecture without having to correct verticals.
 
troutfisher said:
If you are going to be serious about architecture then before long you will run into the dreaded converging verticals and while these can be sorted in PP the best way is the correct lens.
And that regrettably is a TS-E and they are not cheap
And that points you towards a Canon -you should get a used 5DMk2 for your budget but don't forget the tripod head.
My architectural set up is a 5Dmk2 with a Canon 24mm TS-E Mk2 on a Manfrotto 410 geared head.
It is also excellent for landscape panoramas.
Click to expand...
Out of interest ... whats wrong with the Nikon Nikkor PC lenses as an alternative to Canon TS-E?

Nikon have 4 - 19mm, 24mm, 45mm & 85mm vs Canon 4 - 17mm, 24mm, 45mm & 90mm
 
Im looking at a used 6d with Samyang 14mm, the reason I want a second camera and that I love the X100f is the size and weight, can just chuck in the mrs bag when we go out for the day etc. I dont think i would want to carry anything bigger
 
marlie said:
Im looking at a used 6d with Samyang 14mm, the reason I want a second camera and that I love the X100f is the size and weight, can just chuck in the mrs bag when we go out for the day etc. I dont think i would want to carry anything bigger
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Thats why someone mention about Fuji system. No need for second camera unless you want it?
 
Ended up buying a used Canon 6d and Sigma 35mm 1.4 Art. Will see how I get on with this combo.

Thanks for all your replies
 
badboy1984 said:
Can you actually tell the different between a FF and crop sensor when looking at a photo. I'm struggling to tell and difference on my Nikon D3 and Fuji XT1. Infact the Xt1 looks better ......

I'm also emotional attached to the D3 because I heavily invest in nikon .....

There is something about my Fuji XT1 and 18mm f2 and 35mm f2 prime that makes me keep coming back to use it.
Click to expand...

In low light I can definitely tell the difference between my FF Canon and cropped Canon's.

And using fast primes fairly wide open produces a much nicer image lens for lens on FF too.

And much better highlight and shadow recovery...
 
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