General question re lighting outputs.

PsiFox

PsiFox

Prefers Mac over PC any day
Messages
7,240
Name
Mark
Edit My Images
Yes
Would it be better to buy 3x 180w lights with settings down to 1/8 or 3x 160w that go to 1/16?

Thanks
 
3x 180W. We've been chatting in other threads recently about colour temp changes and from the looks of it you really wouldn't want to stop down to 1/16 as some of the temp variations from 1/1 seem horrific.

Just my 2c.
 
I have never set mine down to 1/8 apart from in recent equipment tests. Good question though, on paper I would say 3 x 160 with 1- 1/16 as it gives you an extra stop to play with but with these low powers it is very surprising when you find how little you have to move them to knock a stop down. One thing I am guessing here is that the more power would enable you to photo larger subjects as you can position the light back a bit further. It is hard to explain but at these lower powers you can lose a stop or even more between head and toe of the subject if they are positioned too close (haven't got a clue why but I bet it has something to do with angle and triangles and physics) and I wonder how the lower power would deal with full body... probably fine and I'm sure someone will be along soon to say I'm talking nonsense but it is something I have had to take in to consideration.
 
You'd get more light from a cats fart than a 160w head turned down four stops so it's not the most useful feature. On the other hand, 180w isn't really enough extra power to make them a no brainer either.

My tuppence worth would be to choose on another criteria and if a 16th power and 20w's are the only things that separate the two kits, get the cheapest.
 
OK

Next question.

I'm looking at either a Sekonic 308 or 358.

I'm assuming i can trigger the heads by plugging in the sync cord from the camera to the meter.

I know the 358 has an optional wireless module but that still requires a further receiver on 1 or all heads?

If I get the 308 can you plug in an aftermarket wireless TX or just cable.
 
dazzajl said:
You'd get more light from a cats fart than a 160w head turned down four stops so it's not the most useful feature. On the other hand, 180w isn't really enough extra power to make them a no brainer either.

My tuppence worth would be to choose on another criteria and if a 16th power and 20w's are the only things that separate the two kits, get the cheapest.
Click to expand...

I've got cats so maybe I'll do a comparison in due course.:)
 
dazzajl said:
You'd get more light from a cats fart than a 160w head turned down four stops so it's not the most useful feature. On the other hand, 180w isn't really enough extra power to make them a no brainer either.

My tuppence worth would be to choose on another criteria and if a 16th power and 20w's are the only things that separate the two kits, get the cheapest.
Click to expand...

Suggest criteria please I'm on a learning curve here.

Thanks
 
Hi PsiFox, I went with 3 x 180w and I am more than happy. But there are probably just as many people who purchased a 3 x 160 and just as happy. Plenty to learn from if the price is right. Glad you are looking at light meters, a lot of people think you don't need them but I have found I have learnt so much since getting my L-308S, which yes can be connected to a wireless trigger. Then you get to look at how all the things effect your setup such as losing half a stop with the softbox diffuser compared to the barndoors etc. Days of fun.
 
Suggest criteria please I'm on a learning curve here.
Click to expand...

Well if the two kits are pretty much the same on power and cost, then I'd be looking at recycle time, accessories you might get bundled in, if one is a make you've heard of and one isn't or perhaps if they really are that close, which looks better.

As you'll know, neither are packing a lot of power and that will limit what you can accomplish with them but for learning and getting to grips with light control, they'll be great. (y)
 
PsiFox said:
OK

Next question.

I'm looking at either a Sekonic 308 or 358.

I'm assuming i can trigger the heads by plugging in the sync cord from the camera to the meter.

I know the 358 has an optional wireless module but that still requires a further receiver on 1 or all heads?

If I get the 308 can you plug in an aftermarket wireless TX or just cable.
Click to expand...

I've recently picked up a Sekonic L-358 and it's great. To be honest I wouldn't go to the expense of getting the meter to fire the flashes. Why not just use your camera remote/shutter release cable and fire off a shot. Same result.
 
Criteria will probably be a personal thing. I was looking for something that was cheap, that I knew someone who had, that came with almost everything I needed to play with and that I could pack away in a cupboard or stick in the boot of a car. But I only want something to learn with while taking nice pictures of family and friends if you plan on going pro in a short time you may be better of buying one 300w and a reflector or bigger...but not much to play with. In a year if I want to move up and can afford to there is always ebay resale value or extra background lights.
 
I agree I wouldn't bother with a transmitter just for the meter, I always use the cable. In fact I have a wireless TX but never even use it with the camera.
 
The real question (sorry to hijack PsiFox) is do you get wireless RXs for each head or just one and rely on the slave cells on the others?
 
This is a question without an answer. It depends on your personal needs and on what those needs may be in the future.

Personally, I would advise something like 300J if you can afford it, simply because it is much more versatile, assuming that it has accessories available, which is essential.

Light loses power over distance, very roughly in line with the Inverse Square Law (optical). So, if you move the light twice as far away you only get a quarter of the power. Move it 4 times as far away and you only get 1/16th - what use is a low powered head in that situation?

Also, fit a large softbox to the head and you could lose up to 4 stops, in practical terms (you don't really lose it, it just goes everywhere but the effect is the same).
 
Damn I was about to post something I thought rather clever.. for me. But now Garry is here I'm too scared as I know he hates simplistic views... no I'm not. Here goes then I'm running away:

My little simplistic view

If everything else is concidered equal so that a 500W flash was half as bright as a 1000W flash (rarely if ever the case):

160W 1 - 1/16 would give a range of 10W to 160W = 150W range
180W 1 - 1/8 would give a range of 22.5W to 180W = 157W range

No difference really

Now I know Watts doesn't equate to intensity but it is all we have to go on

:exit:
 
I can't believe that anyone is scared of posting just because I've thrown my hat in the ring:)

At the risk of being accused of nitpicking, we're not talking about watts here, we're talking about Joules (or W/s) if you prefer, which stands for watt seconds.
Watts refer to continuous lighting, Joules refers to flash.A

A flash head of say 300Joules gives out the same amount of light (in theory) in say 1/1000th second as a continuous light of 300 watts gives out in 1 second. In practice, it gives out far more than that because most of the energy produced by the continuous light is in the form of heat, not light, just another reason to use flash...

All things being equal, you're right - the difference between 150 J and 180J is insignificant. Different makes though produce different levels of real power and the same setting, because Joules is just a measurement of power consumption, not output - but for your purpose it's near enough
 
I feel quite smug about getting it half right... didn't hurt half as much as I thought.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top