Beginner Getting the shakes.

Robyn-Anne

Robyn-Anne

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I managed to get out with my mum the other day to use my camera. It has been the first time in a while due to being a little immobile after a knee operation. (still not very mobile, hence going with my mum).

I found that whenever I went to take a picture I acquired the shakes. At the time I had nothing with me only myself and my camera. I was using a Nikon D3200 with a 70-300mm lens. I also have the standard 18-55mm lens which I was not using at this time.
I was wondering if it was due to the lens being too heavy for me, I'm only young mind, and not very strong. ;)

I also have tripods and a monopod at home, would it be best when using this lens to use my monopod or would it not make much of a difference?

Sorry if this seems like a stupid question, I just want to achieve the best I can.

Thanks,
Robyn.
 
A monopod would take the weight of the camera and lens so could possibly help you avoid issues of shakes as you would not have any strain on your arms from weight alone, though obviously you would be aiming/focusing/clicking the shutter :)
 
Hi Robyn you can practice holding the camera and lens at home. Just a few minuets a day will help you build up stability. Set a nicely balanced standing position pick a spot on a wall. Try to keep the center focus. spot on the target. Helps if you can slow your breathing down a little. You don't need to actually take a photo.
 
Hi Robyn, a good rule of thumb is to use a shutter speed no less than the focal length your shooting at. If your shooting at 300mm then no less than 320th of a second. Also related to f-number, so generally for portraits you will be shooting around 90 to 120mm focal length, now around F4 to 5.6 should give you plenty of shutter speed to avoid camera shake. You could set Auto ISO then dial in the f number say F4 and the shutter speed of 1/180th and you can use a focal length upto 180mm, and the camera will adjust the ISO accordingly you see the logic here.(y)
 
Steve, that rule of thumb was good for 35mm but needs to include the crop factor for DX so the shutter speed should be 1.5x the physical focal length.

Robyn-Anne - just how are you holding the camera? With a longish lens like the 70-300mm you need you left hand under it to give it some support and your elbows tucked into your body as much as possible. Apologies if you know all this already.
 
As above its worth mentioning that you have to make your body a stable camera platform triangulate your elbows an keep them close to your body, take the weight of the lens in your left hand.

I think lots of people miss this but:
On an evening whilst you're watching telly, have a 'play' with your camera. Changing modes, changing lenses, getting comfy with the weight, all these things will improve your confidence using the camera for real.
 
Thank you all for taking the time to reply and help me out.

I think my elbows were a little too far out initially, I'll try giving it a shot holding them as tight in as I can.

I just really want to improve with my photography and I really appreciate all the help to offer here. :)

I will practice all of the obove at home before I go out into the big bad world ;)

Thanks,
Robyn.
 
Where are you getting the shakes? - is it your knee giving you a wobble as it builds up strength or is it just your arms? Understanding that gives you an idea how to work around it.

About 18 months ago I had "the shakes", to the point it was visible if I tried to hold my arms out and I couldn't get a steady photo at anything less than 1/500 with even a wide angle. Turned out to be Grave's and my thyroid was over-active. Good for a bit of sudden unexplained weightloss, but no good for photography.

What it taught me was:
  • The shutter speed to 1/focal length minimum rule is like any other rule in photography - it's there for the guidance of the wise and the strict obedience of fools. You need to know your own capabilities. It may be you need to double-up the shutter speed from this "rule" just because you are you and what works for everyone else may not work for you.
  • Take the time to use a tripod/monopod if you need to. It's worth it. Consider getting a smaller, lighter tripod/monopod if that's what it takes to get you to take it with you. I picked up one of the lightweight Sirui tripods which is nice and compact.
  • Base ISO may be first choice, but modern cameras are good several stops above this. You can remove/minimise ISO noise in post but you can't fix the shakes with a preset/action. Worst case black and white and a bit of noise and you can call it "gritty" ;)
  • Keep shooting, have fun. Practice may or may not make perfect, but a walk with your camera is a dam site more enjoyable than golf.
 
Thank you, I am trying to get out with my camera again today but at the moment I'm having no luck finding someone to come with me.
I will however keep you all updated and thank you all for your help and support.

Thanks again,
Robyn.
 
Snapsh0t said:
Steve, that rule of thumb was good for 35mm but needs to include the crop factor for DX so the shutter speed should be 1.5x the physical focal length...
Click to expand...


That's right but... It's not the physical focal length though. physically 50mm is 50mm is 50mm; on a crop it's a short tele and needs a faster shutter speed, on medium format it's a WA and will take a slower SS, whereas on '35mm' it's a std lens and is good for a 1/60 SS.
 
Apart from adding in MF, how is that different from what I said?
 
Robyn-Anne,

Think about your breathing. Breathe normally (avoid shooting when you may be out of breathe through exertion) and aim to release (don't jab) the shutter towards the end of breathing out.

A little trick that costs nothing - a piece of string. Hang it over the lens where it meets the body and trap it under your foot so that it is in firm tension when the camera is held to your eye (and keep your elbows tucked in).
 
Snapsh0t said:
Steve, that rule of thumb was good for 35mm but needs to include the crop factor for DX so the shutter speed should be 1.5x the physical focal length
Click to expand...

I can't get my head around that. I'm sure you're correct given the amount of likes etc, but given all you're seeing on a cropped body is a crop of the larger full frame image, why would that same image, through the same lens at the same shutter speed be more prone to camera shake?
 
Furtim said:
I can't get my head around that. I'm sure you're correct given the amount of likes etc, but given all you're seeing on a cropped body is a crop of the larger full frame image, why would that same image, through the same lens at the same shutter speed be more prone to camera shake?
Click to expand...

Think of it as extra `zoom`.
The longer the lens, the more unstable the image will be.
 
Crop factor can't be relevant, otherwise the intended print size would also be relevant and have to be taken into account as well as focal length.

Full frame printed 9x12 or crop frame printed 6x8.. what effect has shutter speed then?
 
OldCarlos said:
Think of it as extra `zoom`.
The longer the lens, the more unstable the image will be.
Click to expand...
But it isn't really extra optical zoom. It's exactly the same image projected by the lens regardless of whether it's a full frame body or a cropped sensor; the only difference being on a cropped sensor you're capturing a smaller portion of the projected image making it appear as though it's 'extra zoom'.

Optically the projected image will be identical, so why would you need a faster shutter speed on a cropped body to counteract camera shake?

/confused
 
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