Godox ADx00 dark image bottom at top sync speed

LongLensPhotography

LongLensPhotography

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LongLensPhotography
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A reality check if this is how it is or what's wrong.

1/160s. Everything absolutely perfect. Wonderful

1/200s. All three of my AD200 show a visibly darker image bottom. Maybe bottom 20%. AD600 pro is not so noticeable yet.

1/250s (R6 only). Even AD600 pro is now also very visible.


I get same on all three canons, X-pro-C and X1 triggers.

I can live with it, but would be happy if I could solve this. 1/200 or 250 can be more useful than 160, unless i am asking for too much.
 
Not uncommonly, the use of radio remote triggers will cause a reduction of the max shutter speed that can be used when shooting with electronic flash. The problem is that some radio remotes have some latency (delay from the time the transmitter is triggered until the remote triggers the attached flash). What you experience (+0.33EV) in shutter speed reduction is very typical. With too-fast (normaly X-snch speed) speed, the darker area within the frame is typical symptom in cameras with vertical shutter curtain travel...the shutter starts to travel across the opening before the flash output has fully risen to its full intensity because of the propogation delay.
Use of other radio xmitter/receiver can alleviate this issue, but I cannot recommend which one(s) specifically. The problem is less common with not-bargain transitter/receiver brands.
 
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As above; there's always a delay with wireless triggers.

Unless you need 'all' of the power though, you can HSS with that gear and get higher shutter speeds.
 
Phil V said:
As above; there's always a delay with wireless triggers.

Unless you need 'all' of the power though, you can HSS with that gear and get higher shutter speeds.
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I typically need close to 1/1 so that rules out hss unfortunately.

It can be pretty noticeable in real estate when suddenly fastest exposure has darker floor
 
wookie6262 said:
On my Sony A1 they seem to sync fine at 1/400 and in crop mode 1/500
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That would be nice, let alone gs. I don't think I'm ready to drop this money for this job
 
LongLensPhotography said:
I typically need close to 1/1 so that rules out hss unfortunately.

It can be pretty noticeable in real estate when suddenly fastest exposure has darker floor
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Is there a reason that a 1/3 EV slower shutter speed is causing issues for you? I ordinarily think of the need for slower shutter speed as more of a nuisance...esecially given that fact that SLR users were mostly limited to 1/60 X-sync, even 1/160 is 'fast'!
 
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wiltw said:
Is there a reason that a 1/3 EV slower shutter speed is causing issues for you?
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It is not a dealbreaker, but a) annoying and b) it is really leaving extra performance on the table.

Sometimes that extra bit just helps to clean up that persistent highlight or that really nasty bright window. 1/160 vs 1/250s is actually even more significant but I will be honest I really dislike using R6 for this so yeah it is not really in play.
The annoying thing is I can't tell my 5D3 not to do exposures above 1/160s. So it will do another two useless shots at 1/200s and then stop. It simply could be more efficient.
 
LongLensPhotography said:
Sometimes that extra bit just helps to clean up that persistent highlight or that really nasty bright window. 1/160 vs 1/250s is actually even more significant but I will be honest I really dislike using R6 for this so yeah it is not really in play.
The annoying thing is I can't tell my 5D3 not to do exposures above 1/160s. So it will do another two useless shots at 1/200s and then stop. It simply could be more efficient.
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Resolving the thru-window exposure could be accomplished via -1/3 EV lower ISO setting; the impact on flash exposure is perhaps a reduction of max effective distance for flash being reduced from hypothetical 20' to 16' (distance to illustrate the proportional distance loss at same f/stop)
The alternative would be to ditch the current flash trigger set for something of better quality, which would overcome the issue of camera firing faster than the slave set dictates.
 
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wiltw said:
The alternative would be to ditch the current flash trigger set for something of better quality, which would overcome the issue of camera firing faster than the slave set dictates.
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Suggestions? Remember it's godox system.


wiltw said:
Resolving the thru-window exposure could be accomplished via -1/3 EV lower ISO setting; the impact on flash exposure is perhaps a reduction of max effective distance for flash being reduced from hypothetical 20' to 16' (distance to illustrate the proportional distance loss at same f/stop)
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Iso is set according to situation to get flash output to full potential, usually 160-200, or 400 with cpl. I can lower with ad600 but using that in a typical house is more trouble than it's worth. Let's keep that reserved for mansions and portraits.
There is little point to underexpose the whole thing to the require lots of denoising and deworming, particularly with 5d3.

I have a very effective system which I developed around magic lantern I just don't need defects like this get in a way.
 
I am NOT suggesting that overall exposure be altered! I am suggesting that the contribution of too much light thru the window (that is collected by the sensor seeing the window) can be reduced either by
A. using higher shutter speed (as you wish to do) or​
B. by altering the ISO sensitivity.​
In EITHER case, the flash exposure remains 'proper exposure' because that is controlled via the amount of light output by the flash. I do acknowledge that the max flash distance is reduced, when using lower ISO, and give representative distances of that reduction.

BTW I am not debating or arguing with anyone, I am simply offering suggestion of alternate technique to deal with the issue of too much window light during architectural / real estate photography.
 
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wiltw said:
I am NOT suggesting that overall exposure be altered! I am suggesting that the contribution of too much light thru the window (that is collected by the sensor seeing the window) can be reduced either by
A. using higher shutter speed (as you wish to do)11 orB. by altering the ISO sensitivity.In EITHER case, the flash exposure remains 'proper exposure' because that is controlled via the amount of light output by the flash. I do acknowledge that the max flash distance is reduced, when using lower ISO, and give representative distances of that reduction.
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When you are at 1/1 already you can only go one way unless you have more or bigger lights. Maybe one of them is lower but then you lose that ratio, etc.
That's the case for 600 I guess
 
There are always workarounds.

A more powerful flash is the obvious one, but there are others too.

If you leave space top and bottom that can be cropped out, this will allow a faster shutter speed to be used. or you can use the camera upside-down at a faster speed, putting the unexposed "strip" at the top of the frame, which works very well with sky in the shot.
 
upside down. I resorted to that one.. worked a treat. hard to BBF and shoot.. bit of a handful that
 
Garry Edwards said:
If you leave space top and bottom that can be cropped out, this will allow a faster shutter speed to be used. or you can use the camera upside-down at a faster speed, putting the unexposed "strip" at the top of the frame, which works very well with sky in the shot.
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Lol, So basically shoot with 14mm on 60mp body, crop a third off, and mount it upside down exactly how?! Glad I don't need to sing an opera while doing all that

Sorry I just asked if this godox system basically tops at 1/160s without going to hss and it seems like it *maybe* a *yes*.
 
LongLensPhotography said:
Sorry I just asked if this godox system basically tops at 1/160s without going to hss and it seems like it *maybe* a *yes*.
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Godox can happily sync higher than that in my experience with a multitude of Nikon cameras so the issue is with your camera/trigger combination. Did you try the delay adjustment?

Mike
 
LongLensPhotography said:
A reality check if this is how it is or what's wrong.

1/160s. Everything absolutely perfect. Wonderful

1/200s. All three of my AD200 show a visibly darker image bottom. Maybe bottom 20%. AD600 pro is not so noticeable yet.

1/250s (R6 only). Even AD600 pro is now also very visible.


I get same on all three canons, X-pro-C and X1 triggers.

I can live with it, but would be happy if I could solve this. 1/200 or 250 can be more useful than 160, unless i am asking for too much.
Click to expand...
Just check that you're not in rear curtain sync. That can slow result in banding at slower shutter speeds than usual.
 
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