Good online printing service
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OP
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By saying simply 'photos' I'm probably revealing my rather basic level of knowledge, but that is it. I take my photos in RAW and then process using iphoto - looking to bring some up to a decent size for framing etc
OP
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Thanks - i'll have a look
The problem I've had to date is that after spending much care processing the image up to where i want it, i then order a print and they tend to come back very dark with dull colours, not representative of the image
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- Jim
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Sounds like you need to get your screen calibrated, most screens are too bright
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/monitor-calibration.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/monitor-calibration.htm
OP
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Thanks - i'll give that a go
One more if i may? My images are saved on my drive in RAW. What is the best file to use to send them to the printers? I have opted to use Loxley and am using the ROES system, but am unsure what the best file is for compression vs quality
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Loxley are excellent and I've had no issue with ds colour as long as your monitor is calibrated. One vision imaging are another I have used with no complaints but mostly for their schools service.
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Glad I read this, I use ds colour labs and find their prices excellent, I've bought their canvases too. They do the best range of print sizes too which i find perfect for my sons albums, from 5x3.5" and 3 square sizes too!!
But I too find my photos dark when the prints are returned. How do you calibrate on imac?
But I too find my photos dark when the prints are returned. How do you calibrate on imac?
OP
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I received an image back from Loxley and although the finish was good (basic service only) it came out too dark.
I use a MacBook Pro and I have just calibrated the screen using the built in calibration tool. System Preferences > Displays > Color > Calibrate. Follow the instructions. You can save the new settings (give it a name) and it still retains the original settings which helped reassure me I wasnt cocking the whole set up up (my usual fear when messing with these sort of things.)
Going to try it again with Loxley and see if it helps
LongLensPhotography
Th..th..that's all folks!
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Calibration is one necessary thing, but the other culprit is this horrible wide-spread C-type technology that can't get even near sRGB colour space limits. You may find prints are way better on Baryta paper using inkjet technology. It will be much more expensive, but it is worth it.
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You can't calibrate any screen with an OS's built-in calibration tool (Windows or Mac). You need a monitor calibration puck like a Spyder4Pro or x-rite iOne Display Pro. Also, some of the tools won't calibrate to a target brightness and require the user to reduce brightness manually.
If your prints are too dark then your monitor brightness that you are editing with is set too high. All monitors are at their default too bright for image editing but fine for doing word processing and watching movies. The first time you turn it down to the proper level for image editing it will seem very dim/dull, but after about a week you'll get used to it. I target 100 cd/m^2.
Also, when you send files out to be printed make certain you instruct the lab to turn all auto-corrections off.
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OP
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Thanks
What does 100 cd/m^2. mean? Is that a measurement/metric that appears on the ios system?
OP
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Thanks - what does C-type technology that can't get even near sRGB colour space limits mean please??!! How would I get prints on Baryta paper using inkjet technology? Is this a service say Loxley would offer?
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C-Type printers combine modern printers with the traditional silver halide print chemistry, using lasers to print the photo on to the paper. It's fair to say that daugirdas isn't a fan and likes to beat the "exclusively use inkjet" drum. Inkjets to have a wider colour reproduction and longer life. However, c-types do remain popular for various reasons. Loxley offer both; their "Photographic Prints" are C-type, and "Giclee fine Art" are inkets. ("Giclee" is a poncy term for "Inket", "inkjet" sounding too much like the cheap things people print their school reports on)
Even if you don't plan on using them, I recommend buying the sample pack from The Print Space. For £6 they'll send you ten A4 prints on a diverse mix of papers (4 c-type, six inkjets) and you can start to come to an informed decision on what your preference is. There's a huge difference between an inkjet on a Baryta paper (as mentioned by daugirdas), an inket on photorag and a c-type using Kodak Metallic.
Even if you don't plan on using them, I recommend buying the sample pack from The Print Space. For £6 they'll send you ten A4 prints on a diverse mix of papers (4 c-type, six inkjets) and you can start to come to an informed decision on what your preference is. There's a huge difference between an inkjet on a Baryta paper (as mentioned by daugirdas), an inket on photorag and a c-type using Kodak Metallic.
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OP
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That's very informative; thanks very much. Toooo much choice!! I'll give the sample pack a try
Our (Loxley) C-Type printers are set up "differently" and have outstanding dmax (black blacks). Alsso, depends on the application but silver halide prints are a lot more robust than Giclee / Inkjet prints which can mark easily.
If looking to mount the prints or print direct to substrate, apart from Loxley (obviously!) Whitewall will send you a fabulous sample box with over 20 different substrates (for free).
Illford, in my opinion, are still the best for black and white, as they have dedicated chemistry.
If looking to mount the prints or print direct to substrate, apart from Loxley (obviously!) Whitewall will send you a fabulous sample box with over 20 different substrates (for free).
Illford, in my opinion, are still the best for black and white, as they have dedicated chemistry.
OP
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Thanks all useful stuff, but think we have lost the essence of my initial "very novice" question re prints returning very dark
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I think it was mentioned above ^^ somewhere but:-
- The prime cause for dark prints is that you are using the computer screen set way too bright
- By using a calibrator such as the Spyder3 Elite (this is what I have) you can set the screen brightness to the advised level i.e. using an LCD (most common) to 100cd/m^2 you be much closer to getting prints that look like they do on the screen. Having said that this level of brightness is for use in low to very low light level room situation.......a dark room in effect with almost no light falling on the computer screen!
The 100cd/m^2 setting is achieved by turning down the brightness (and contrast?) on the computer until the calibrator reports that you have reached that point. NB the software used with the Spyder walks you through the process and IMO quite straightforward
- FWIW I have taken to soft proofing in LightRoom just to make sure I have done the best I can to get prints that look like they did on the screen.
Hope that helps in answering/summarising your 'very novice' question
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@kevin (testbloke) ~ I saw your mention of Whitewall and their samples pack. I had a look round their site and there is no specific ref to a samples pack request, so is it best done via phone of their 'contact us' form??? Oh, and have you used them and if so what products....................and would you use them again?
Just had a quick look and cannot see it either, probably not offered during peak demand in December, either phone or wait till January.
I have "used" them in respect of bought products to take apart and look at the manufacturing processes. I work for Loxley so they are effectively a rival althiough a different target market.
There producsts are very good and there process is very good, they have had huge investment to get to where they are at the moment.
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It's the luminance setting for your screen in candelas per square meter which is the light emitted from your screen per unit area. For some calibration systems you can lock out the brightness setting on your monitor, set a target (like 100 cd/m^2) and the calibration device/software will adjust screen brightness for you. However, some calibrators can't do that so you need to use a grey scale to eyeball how much you turn down brightness, then follow up with some prints and based upon those results fine tune it. You can find plenty of sites with decent grey scales to use (you want one with lots of steps) ... Here's a link to one: http://www.tranquilityimages.com/calibrate.shtml
Out of the box your monitor could be at 60 to 70% brightness, which could be 200 - 300 cd/m^2 (whatever the actual number, it will definitely be way too bright no matter the manufacturer). For example, for one Dell eIPS monitor I own I had to turn the brightness down to 15%, which I understand is a pretty common target.
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Hi Gaz
Asfar as I know you cannot (there may be high end monitors that do?) It is the use of a calibrator with it's software that reports that figure.
Was thinking last night about this. I'm not a photographer and only take photos for my own pleasure so not to keen on spending lots to calibrate as the phoots back from Dscl are not a million miles out.
Could I not just get the photo I have had printed from Dscl out next to the monitor and the image on screen in photoshop them adjust the brightness of my screen down to match the print in my hand?
On my Monitor (dell) U2412M Digital it as a brightness slider and contrast would you just alter the brightness they are both @ 75 % ? Or is there a problem doing it this way ?
Gaz
Could I not just get the photo I have had printed from Dscl out next to the monitor and the image on screen in photoshop them adjust the brightness of my screen down to match the print in my hand?
On my Monitor (dell) U2412M Digital it as a brightness slider and contrast would you just alter the brightness they are both @ 75 % ? Or is there a problem doing it this way ?
Gaz
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Yep, thats the basic way to do it and what we do for weding clients ordering many images from an online gallery.
Thank you Kevin it seems a simple fix but I guess often simples is best
Thanks Jim
Gaz