Graduated filters or exposure blending?

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Chris
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I'm wondering whether graduated filters would be a useful addition to my photographic tool kit. I'll explain where I'm at in my understanding of the issues.

The problem which graduated filters are designed to solve is the often very large difference in exposure required to register good sky detail and good ground detail in landscape photography. Where the horizon is reasonably level one solution is to darken the sky with a graduated filter. Back in the days of film another possibility was to dodge using fingers or cutouts during the enlargement process. That took advantage of the greater dynamic range of film compared to paper print. Where the difference in dynamic range of sky and ground exceeded that of film then either you had to do two different exposures and blend them or use a graduated filter when taking the shot. Blending exposures by aligning negatives was a tricky process requiring skill and dedication.

Modern digital camera sensors have wider dynamic range than film so the dynamic range of the landscape exceeding that of the sensor happens less often than with film. So using graduated filters or exposure blending will be needed less often than with film. But it still happens. And exposure blending is much easier than with film. You can tell the camera to shoot a sequence of different exposures. The digital post processing equivalent to dodging at print enlargement stage is not only much easier to do manually in a good modern image processor, but much of it can be automated with such software procedures as HDR.

I would have expected that these advantages of modern digital sensors and image editors would have replaced the use of graduated filters, relegating that rather clumsy technology to the dwindling band of film enthusiasts. But not so. There are plenty of digital landscape photographers still using graduated filters. Why?

I've looked for discussions of this. I see some asserting that there's no need for graduated filters today, it can all be done in software. I see others who simply don't like using software when it's possible to get the shot "right in the camera". Some have moral objection to the overuse of image editors.

I have no moral objection to the use of image editors, tone mapping, HDR, etc.. I prefer to avoid filters simply because they add another pair of air-glass junctions to the light path, flare, etc., but I'm quite happy to use one when it does something impossible or rather difficult to do any other way.

Are there any good reasons for me to use a graduated filter?
 
For me (and I'm sure a lot of photographers), it's so much easier using grads than trying to blend/merge images in photoshop/lightroom, I always have a filter holder on the lenses I use for landscapes, it takes seconds to slot a grad in place.

I've never found blending images to be very satisfactory, it takes quite a while, and they never feel right somehow, as for HDR I would never go there.
 
Grads, all the way.

I've used them in some of these here. I don't blend as a) I can't be bothered when I can get the effect I need in one exposure b) saves storage c) saves time d) is just as effective

http://www.sftphotography.co.uk/outdoor-photography-top-ten-images-2014/

I will however admit they can cause flares when shooting into the sun or light sources, I do a lot of cityscapes but with modern sensors I can usually get an acceptable exposure
 
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Software for me every time, a whole lot cheaper and more control in application.
Grads are all very well if you have a straight line boundary between the two parts of the image, but I usually find I have a hill/building/tree or other object crossing the boundary, and with a graduated filter, you finish up applying it to an area where you don't want it.
I find using the graduated filter in Lightroom with a raw file much easier to apply and control, and for difficult situations I'll bracket and blend exposures for the desired result.
The only time I can see filters are going to be any help is if you are shooting jpg and have limited scope for adjustment.
 
It might be easier in post Brian but if you're fixing in a single raw file then you'll be losing detail by compressing the 16bit data into less... Not necessarily the end of the world but when you combine it with contrast increases and clarity enhancements you can create some unnecessary artefacts. I'd say horses for courses...
 
I love using graduated filters. Being able to nail a photo with one exposure rather than having to blend in multiple ones etc is much more satisfying for me. I wish I knew how much I would have liked them years ago when I opted for blending exposures instead.
 
Both are valid techniques, I just cannot be bothered to sit and merge files at a later stage. Never been very good at Photoshop etc!

I also find with the new modern Nikon FX sensors that you can pull so much data out of the shadows (even those that are jet black) that any dark areas from using a hard grad on a cluttered horizon come straight out in post.
 
For the exposure benders (other than HDR which I am not keen on) - how do you do the blending? I often find a simple cut and paste of (for example) a good sky onto a good landscape to be a clumsy and unsatisfying method (I only have Elements). I have heard of luminosity masking but never tried it (it's full Photosho only I believe) - it sounds ideal ?
 
I've been using ND grads for a while and recently started blendeding exposures too. Blending gives more control; in mountainous areas the horizon can be far from perfect straight line. Or perhaps you could have strong sun causing a lot of flare due to crappy non coated resin filter. However the disadvantage is that you will have to lock the camera on tripod very steadily and bracket two-three shots covering all your highlight and well-exposed shadows, then spend at least 5-10min per image in LR then PS. You can also do focus bracketing, but only if your lens doesn't have significant focus breathing (sadly most Canon L do). But then it is "free" while filters cost significant money, then fall off in the cold day and get destroyed - see here http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/nd-grad-filters.572869/ (I am down ~£200 over 3 years and have to buy all over again)

Some blending examples for you. I'll be very intrigued if any filter user can come up with a plan to shoot those in a single frame.


The problem here is the sun. You just can't cover all dynamic range with 5DIII, far from it. Also flare...



you could stack a couple strong hard grads, and get black mountain as a result... no good.



Or maybe this way round?
 
Gggrrr!!!!!

You can still buy it!

Of course you can still buy film. All I meant is that the predominant photographic technology is now digital. Film is in decline.

Possibly more than slide film, certainly less than negative film.


Steve.

Whether film has better dynamic range than modern digital sensors is endlessly debatable because of the different shapes of their range of sensitivity. Digital has a sharp cutoff at the high end & a sharper cutoff at the low end. Film rolls off more taperingly at each end which makes its effective range much more dependent on aesthetic and image quality choices about where to peg the usable end points of the dynamic range. Also a DSLR can easily change dynamic range from shot to shot if desired, whereas the available dynamic range of an SLR camera depends on the combination of loaded film and chosen development strategy which applies to that roll of film.

I could have got quite a bit more dynamic range from my films by being more adventurous in my choice of film stocks and development strategies, it's true. But I couldn't be bothered. I'm far from alone in enjoying far more practically effective dynamic range from my digital camera than I ever got from my film SLR.
 
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Of course you can still buy film. All I meant is that the predominant photographic technology is now digital. Film is in decline.



Whether film has better dynamic range than modern digital sensors is endlessly debatable because of the different shapes of their range of sensitivity. Digital has a sharp cutoff at the high end & a sharper cutoff at the low end. Film rolls off more taperingly at each end which makes its effective range much more dependent on aesthetic and image quality choices about where to peg the usable end points of the dynamic range. Also a DSLR can easily change dynamic range from shot to shot if desired, whereas the available dynamic range of an SLR camera depends on the combination of loaded film and chosen development strategy which applies to that roll of film.

I could have got quite a bit more dynamic range from my films by being more adventurous in my choice of film stocks and development strategies, it's true. But I couldn't be bothered. I'm far from alone in enjoying far more practically effective dynamic range from my digital camera than I ever got from my film SLR.

With due respect, portra will knock your dslr sensor into a crooked hat on that particular measure.
 
digital for me, more control and easier to manage as you can see the histograms on the screen of your bracketed photo to see if you have the full DR captured. especially effective with sun stars...

grad filters is awesome if you got a horizontal line with no subjects transiting between the non ND and ND edges...not so great for instance...tall buildings - clock towers/mountains/watch towers or anything that can be used to compose the picture...

also with filters you can only achieve the effects if the composition is flat or a singular line of differentiation.

for instance I recently visit a stone forest and the dynamic range was massive as the sky was brightly lit by the sun, but where i was standing, it was dark due the the depth and density of the stone forest. so a filter system would be useless in this instance as the composition consisted of a V-shaped scene with the sky being the middle of the V. the only way to achieve HDR in this case is to use blending...

So filter system is highly limited in terms composition. digital gives freedom of that and gives a lot more control. however the digital way may give rise to noise through the process which may reduce details as you apply noise reduction.

can't post the image mentioned above as no internet :( only using phone connection...
 
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Is the filter not, as in it's name, graduated and therefore no demarcation line as to where the effect starts?
 
@Silver pixels - You can get soft or hard grads which as the name suggests gives either a soft or hard demarcation line.

I'd much rather use "real" filters in the field than spend time on Photoshop. That said you sometimes have to do both and certainly don't object to the blending techniques used although I'm not keen on some people's heavy use of the HDR sliders . Using filters on the camera is now part of my workflow and I have to say one I enjoy.
 
For the exposure benders (other than HDR which I am not keen on) - how do you do the blending? I often find a simple cut and paste of (for example) a good sky onto a good landscape to be a clumsy and unsatisfying method (I only have Elements). I have heard of luminosity masking but never tried it (it's full Photosho only I believe) - it sounds ideal ?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOpBX2w9WJ4&list=FLSLQboFpyvcKlEhfbG3uIKg


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMBvcj9Xilg&index=4&list=FLSLQboFpyvcKlEhfbG3uIKg


Try these Mike , one's a bit simpler than the other but quick and easy techniques .
 
For the exposure benders (other than HDR which I am not keen on) - how do you do the blending? I often find a simple cut and paste of (for example) a good sky onto a good landscape to be a clumsy and unsatisfying method (I only have Elements). I have heard of luminosity masking but never tried it (it's full Photosho only I believe) - it sounds ideal ?

Nothing wrong with HDR as a technique. As long as you have enough exposures, you can get extremely natural looking images.
 
Both have their uses but its a lot quicker to take 1 shot with a filter and make minimum adjustments in PS/ACR or LR than not using a filter and having to make much larger adjustments which takes longer and will over all impact the IQ in one way or another.
 
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Funny you should say that - since I wrote the above I've had a few attempts at 'realistic' (whatever that means) HDRs and you're right of course it does have its place if done properly.
The biggest problem with HDR is that a lot of people think that "If a thing is worth doing, it's worth OVERdoing."
Used properly there's no reason you cannot achieve a realistic result.
 
I went on a workshop with Daniel Cheung from Dubai. If you're interested in digital blending, his work is well worth a look.

EDIT: I've probably still got the presentation from the course, if anyone's interested.
 
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You might also want to take a look at David's (@Pookeyhead) new resource here. Haven't tried it yet myself as I am on holiday but has been getting good responses.
 
I went on a workshop with Daniel Cheung from Dubai. If you're interested in digital blending, his work is well worth a look.

EDIT: I've probably still got the presentation from the course, if anyone's interested.

Yes please!
 
Well, that's an oxymoron if I've ever heard one.... "Natural looking HDR" - just what is natural to start with?

In terms of the original thread - I use both
 
I always prefer to use filters to get the shot as near perfect at the first attempt but have also started using luminosity masks to allow me to blend selected areas back in to the shot, especially where a filter can't help with a broken horizon or the dynamic range is just too great.

I don't like to spend lots of time in front of the computer processing shots but used a few wet evenings to learn about LMs and process a couple of shots.
 
To be honest I've been moving away from both. I think sometimes it helps to just have a wander around with the camera in your hand. The majority of my favourites over the last year or two have been without tripod or filters and have been a single RAW. I just think that blended images can look just a wee bit too perfect. Bright sunlight AND all the shadow detail? I just think that it can result in an image that lacks mood and atmosphere. I appreciate that it isn't a view held by everyone but just my thoughts.
 
My rule of thumb is that if someone can tell I've manipulated my image (in camera or PP) then I've not done it right.
For landscapes, I've always found grads easier to get a natural looking result.
However, I've started using exposure blending extensively on my caving project; there are plenty of shapes allowing the blending to support the composition without looking artificial. Also, grads wouldn't work as my exposure nightmares happen right across the frame.
For example, this recent shot was bracketed 5 stops and blended in PP.
20150328-175221-I39A7557-Merged-M.jpg
 
I have no moral objection to the use of image editors, tone mapping, HDR, etc.. I prefer to avoid filters simply because they add another pair of air-glass junctions to the light path, flare, etc., but I'm quite happy to use one when it does something impossible or rather difficult to do any other way.


This :agree:

I don't use anything but full NDs as I just don't see the point in using Grads - AND - (being a Yorkie) - I like that I've saved more than enough money for a weekend away to actually take photos :)

Dave
 
My rule of thumb is that if someone can tell I've manipulated my image (in camera or PP) then I've not done it right.

That's what I aim for as well.

I'm learning blending too - sometimes due to DR or scene (e.g. mountain horizon's etc) I can't faithfully capture the image. I'm also finding it helps me think about camera setup, experimenting and understanding how to create a good image with all the tools available.
 
In response to "grads or exposure blending" then I would say both, they are tools in the toolbox. You can't use multiple exposures with some moving subjects such as tree branches.
 
You can't use multiple exposures with some moving subjects such as tree branches.
You can if you are exposure blending by hand; typically only one exposure gets used in any single part of the image.
That, and making editing so that the brightness 'shapes' become part of the composition are the main reasons I don't use automated blending (e.g. HDR)
 
I always like to get the most right 'in camera' so mainly use filters

That said I've also blended images in PS to good effect as well

I wouldn't use cheap filters though so going this route is more expense but to me is preferred.
 
I like to try and get it right in camera and do the minimum on the computer.
 
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