Graduated ND Filters

Walker

Walker

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Firstly, sorry if this has been asked/answered before, I had a quick look and couldn't see anything but I'm sure I'll get pointed in the right direction. I'm a bit of a novice still and can't quite get my head around whether a graduated ND filter is worth the money or not.

From what I understand they would eliminate the problem of having the sky overexposed without having to PP it later. However I guess by their nature I would have to adjust it and 'settle' on a picture determined by where the filtering starts on the filter.

Is it just easier to PP it? How many out there actually use ND filters?
 
Walker said:
Is it just easier to PP it? How many out there actually use ND filters?
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Rarely use ND filters, but use ND grads a lot, I find it far easier (and a darned site quicker) than trying to pp it.

Most grads are slip in rather than screw in, you you need a filter holder.

Populer types are Lee, Hitech and cokin.
 
Ah right, that explains alot. I'll get researching!

Thanks for the quick reply
 
might be worth looking into the cokin p system - it's relatively inexpensive for a beginner :)
 
ND grads are much quicker and easier, and it's somehow more satisfying to get it right in camera.

But you get a better result, and more control, if you shoot a couple of different exposures and merge them in post processing.

Edit: 'Better' in that with a grad, if the subject breaks the grad line, as buildings and mountains tend to do, they get darkened too.
 
HoppyUK said:
'Better' in that with a grad, if the subject breaks the grad line, as buildings and mountains tend to do, they get darkened too.
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That's what I was unsure about. The letters HDR seem pretty taboo here, but I have to admit I love the results. I think it's the route I will follow. Do I get banned for saying that?
 
HopefulM said:
might be worth looking into the cokin p system - it's relatively inexpensive for a beginner :)
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agreed - I'm just going down that route with learning about landscapes

the above post is correct BUT......

there are 2 types of ND Grad filters
one is called "soft" and the transition boundary is gradual - so OK for mountains etc
the other is called "hard" and is used for sharp horizons like seascapes

you move the filter up or down in the holder to match the horizon

they are also rated on depth of colour being light, medium, dark
from what I've read dont bother with light

here's a list of filters....."link"

if you have a lens wider than 18mm ie 17mm you'll need a wideangle filter holder - these only hold 1 filter against the "normal" holder which can hold 3
you will then need an adapter ring to match the filter thread of your lens

sorry for the long post - questions? ask !
 
Yardbent said:
sorry for the long post
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Not a problem, it shows that there is alot more to it than I previously thought. I think I might give the blending option a try and see how it goes. I'll post some results when I get the chance.

Cheers!
 
I use the Cokin system and I think you should certainly experiment with grads as well as pp
 
Walker said:
That's what I was unsure about. The letters HDR seem pretty taboo here, but I have to admit I love the results. I think it's the route I will follow. Do I get banned for saying that?
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Taboo? This place is chocka with it!

i would suggest going for hard grads if you are looking to do lots of sunsets/sunrises/landscapes, as soft grads are frankly crap (IMHO).
 
The Reverend JT said:
Taboo? This place is chocka with it!

i would suggest going for hard grads if you are looking to do lots of sunsets/sunrises/landscapes, as soft grads are frankly crap (IMHO).
Click to expand...

correct words are "they're not as effective on crop sensors as they are on FF" :bonk:
 
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