GX80 + Pana 100-300mm

[d00d]

So I've now got this kit for walk about (no tripod) in Hyde Park (plus the odd trip to the Cotswolds), hoping to venture into wildlife ...

I've tried it out and I'm hugely impressed with the stabilisation (body+lens), got some pretty good results at 300mm (600 equiv) hand held.

Any tips on camera settings and techniques much appreciated.

(left hand a bit shaky in old age, but have a way using right wrist strap, camera at waist level, shutter release with my thumb! It doesn't have to be like that but it feels good).

 

[Cagey75]

For better steadiness at longer focal lengths it's better to use the evf, your head up against the camera adds another stabilizing point. Keep your arms tucked in tight, left hand firm grip under the lens and loosen your right hand up a little, allow the left hand to do the holding, use it like a mini platform. Deep breath, and shoot while exhaling slow and steady - this is a common way to shoot wildlife without a tripod. IBIS is great for composing with longer lenses, even when using faster shutter speeds.

 

[mikew]

If you find you have problems with shake try a burst of 3 or 4 shots you may find the second or 3rd is sharper.

 

[fido18]

For better steadiness at longer focal lengths it's better to use the evf, your head up against the camera adds another stabilizing point. Keep your arms tucked in tight, left hand firm grip under the lens and loosen your right hand up a little, allow the left hand to do the holding, use it like a mini platform. Deep breath, and shoot while exhaling slow and steady - this is a common way to shoot wildlife without a tripod. IBIS is great for composing with longer lenses, even when using faster shutter speeds.

Try Cagey75’s technique. This is how I hold my G80+100-300mm because like you I have shaky hands and suffer with spinal problems. It really helps.

 

[d00d]

Thanks guys

But, as I say, I'm hugely impressed with the stabilisation (body+lens), and I feel happy walking about with the kit cradled at waist level.

Or should I be using a tripod as a rule? In which case, should I switch off one or both stabilisers?

I've had a go at birding at the Serpentine in Hyde Park where there are swans taking off and landing, gulls circling overhead, starlings on coffee shop tables. They say there's over 100 bird species there.

For grab shots,
I've tried using S mode at 1/800 or 1/1000 for birds in flight.
I've tried A mode at f/7.1 for birds generally,
both the above on auto iso. If auto iso is recommended, should I set a limit?

I'm impressed with the cameras performance in AF Flexible mode, I've always used AF Single for everything in the past. AF Continues doesn't seem much cop. Not sure about these Drive Modes, there's a 4K Burst that I haven't tried yet.

 

[woof woof]

Just a quick question... are you sure about using f7.1 for general bird shots? That sounds like quite a small aperture on MFT. You may be using the right settings but just thought it was worth asking the question.

 

[Cagey75]

When I had this lens I found it plenty sharp enough at 5.6 300mm, I only ever stopped down when light was very strong. I've seen some report that their copy was a little soft wide open, either I was lucky or I'm not as fussy, prefer to have the extra light and keep the iso down

Shooting from the hip for birds must be awkward? But, if its how you feel most comfy then keep at it, just practise steadiness as you go. I imagine a light monopod would be very useful for your style

 

[d00d]

Just a quick question... are you sure about using f7.1 for general bird shots? That sounds like quite a small aperture on MFT. You may be using the right settings but just thought it was worth asking the question.

No I'm not sure and it does sound small doesn't it! I think I read somewhere that f/7.1 was good for birding with that lens ... don't ask me where.

Here's a shot taken at f/5.3 and the beak looks like it could be sharper ... or is it more than just the beak!

 

[Cagey75]

Just looks like the starling's head was turned and you missed focus slightly, stopping down will give you more depth but you need good light for it is all. There's no right or wrong, just don't feel you have to shoot at this aperture all the time. In a case like this I would have shot again stopped down if I'd noticed at the time.

 

[d00d]

When I had this lens I found it plenty sharp enough at 5.6 300mm, I only ever stopped down when light was very strong. I've seen some report that their copy was a little soft wide open, either I was lucky or I'm not as fussy, prefer to have the extra light and keep the iso down

Shooting from the hip for birds must be awkward? But, if its how you feel most comfy then keep at it, just practise steadiness as you go. I imagine a light monopod would be very useful for your style

Cheers I'll try some more at f/5.6 or f/5.3

Here's one at f/5.6 ... looks OK just not terribly exciting. And the focal length is nearer 200 than 300.

 

[d00d]

Just looks like the starling's head was turned and you missed focus slightly, stopping down will give you more depth but you need good light for it is all. There's no right or wrong, just don't feel you have to shoot at this aperture all the time. In a case like this I would have shot again stopped down if I'd noticed at the time.

Yep ... more practice.