HDR Learnings

D.S.

D.S.

Messages
364
Edit My Images
Yes
Hi guys, I have started playing around with HDR.

I have read the theory, 3 pictures under exposed / neutral / over exposed then blend them together using software. CS3 or Photomatix.

So far I have only played with existing shot I had from my old camera so, well that will be a later question.

For the purpose of the test, I took a cool picture I had of a lighthouse in Barbados. I used Photoshop to create my 3 images from that original adjusting the exposures levels in Image > Adjustments > Exposure. -3 for the low, as is for the mid and +3 for the high. Then piped these into Photomatix to let it do its thing. The initial output didn't look very good with the default settings but after playing around with them I got something that look okish.

Original picture
2358293727_58ecb10440.jpg


HDR
2774619502_83af543e4d.jpg


Not quite the stunning change I had hoped for but getting better. I think I exhausted the fiddelable options in Photomatix and the above was the best I could get it.

I'm only using the evaluation of Photomatix hence the watermark but i'll purchase the full version later.

Do you think this is because I was messing with a jpg I had already taken on a older digital camera, then manipulated the exposure levels in Photoshop?

I now have a Nikon D60 which is obviously a much better camera than the one I took this pic with. Unfortunately it doesn't support automatic exposure bracketing so to achieve the HDR effect it will take manual manipulation of the exposure on the camera. No problem just a bit more fiddly and runs the risk of clouds moving etc.

Also would it be better to set the camera output to RAW rather than jpg? There seems to be lots of debate around the subject on the web.

Would starting with a single RAW image, then adjusting the exposures in Photoshop, them piping into Photomatix offer better results?

Any other thoughts on HDR photography?

Cheers ears!
 
I've been doing the majority of my HDR practicing in RAW.

Mark Flemming's workflow seems to be first photomatix and then photoshop. He get's some interesting things in there.
 
D.S. said:
I used Photoshop to create my 3 images from that original adjusting the exposures levels...

Do you think this is because I was messing with a jpg I had already taken on a older digital camera, then manipulated the exposure levels in Photoshop?
Click to expand...

100% yes. Its in no way a HDR image. You're simply tone mapping for that 'HDR' look.

Any other thoughts on HDR photography?
Click to expand...

While your camera can't bracket it doesn't stop you adjusting the settings. Surely it has exposure compensation? www.vanilladays.com/hdr-guide is always a good starting point, so they say ;)
 
petemc said:
100% yes. Its in no way a HDR image. You're simply tone mapping for that 'HDR' look.



While your camera can't bracket it doesn't stop you adjusting the settings. Surely it has exposure compensation? www.vanilladays.com/hdr-guide is always a good starting point, so they say ;)
Click to expand...

Yep it sure does...

Thanks for the link, thats a good'un!

Had a go at a couple more, think these have come out much better...

2774966298_cdd0bf13c7.jpg


2773658859_8b8fc3439e.jpg


These were both using jpg's off my old camera, just trying to learn some post production photoshop tricks.

Can you believe I have been using Photoshop for years and only today did I learn about layer masks lol :bonk:
 
I'm going to sample HDR today, I just wanted to make sure i'm using the correct setting with my EOS 400D

I am in P (Program) Mode, and have the AEB to -2,0,+2, then when they're done I have a question, do I adjust the AEB to -1,0,+1, or do I adjust the shutter (in fact I don't think that's possible in P Mode)
Is the AEB basically an alternate method to adjusting shutter speed when shooting a HDR shot, or should I be in Manual mode, still adjusting shutter (but obviously not aperture) as well as changing the AEB settings.
 
Technically correct method is to meter for the shadows and highlights, work out the number of stops difference and then shoot the frames in between that at 1 stop difference. So if you have a 5 stop difference then you would get 5 shots.

You will end up with a lot more natural looking shots and eliminate the chances of getting very noisy images where the shadows were. -2 0 and +2 are only going to be any use if there's only a 4 stop difference in the scene.
 
Would starting with a single RAW image, then adjusting the exposures in Photoshop, them piping into Photomatix offer better results?
Click to expand...
At this point i would use one raw file, adjusting exposures, contrast etc to 2 - 3 jpgs.
Open these up in Photomatix, and either use the Exp Blending or Genrate HDR this will give you a feel for the software and issues.
You can always create the raw in CS3 HDR..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top