Head help

I really think a gimbal type head would be a pain in the arse for the bigma. They rely on balancing the lens (unless that manfrotto one is different, i have no experience of it).
With the large expansion of the bigma as it zooms, the head would have to be re-balanced all the time, unless you dont mind that or use it at one focal length.

With a 500 or 600 prime is obviously a different story
 
Werecow said:
I really think a gimbal type head would be a pain in the arse for the bigma. They rely on balancing the lens (unless that manfrotto one is different, i have no experience of it).
With the large expansion of the bigma as it zooms, the head would have to be re-balanced all the time, unless you dont mind that or use it at one focal length.

With a 500 or 600 prime is obviously a different story
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I see what you mean, thinking about it i would prob be using it at 500mm most of the time anyway maybe even with a convertor on it until i can upgrade the lens
 
Get the Manfrotto 393. It comes with a lens plate anyway, and I have no trouble balancing my 500mm f4L on it.

The other one is a shameless copy of the Wimberley gimbal at about a fifth of the price. I'm not saying it's rubbish, but I'm just recommending what I know will work for you.
 
CT said:
Get the Manfrotto 393. It comes with a lens plate anyway, and I have no trouble balancing my 500mm f4L on it.

The other one is a shameless copy of the Wimberley gimbal at about a fifth of the price. I'm not saying it's rubbish, but I'm just recommending what I know will work for you.
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Cheers ct consider it ordered:D I guess i will be able to pan with it and also do the screws on the side hold the head stil when i let the camera go (if you know what i mean) Also will my 190xpro handle it ok, sorry for all the ?s
 
Your current legs will be fine until you get a real monster lens I reckon.

When you get your 393 - attach the lens plate to the foot on the lens collar. When you mount the camera and lens onto the head - slide the plate into the shoe but don't tighten up the shoe yet. Keeping the lens well supported with your hand, slack off both the side torque knobs and slide the plate in the shoe till the camera hangs more or less horizontal with little or no support from you. At this point you've balanced the lens around it's centre of gravity - you want it neither nose (lens) heavy or tail (camera) heavy.

Now tighten up the shoe so the plate is secure, and apply just a little torque to each of the side knobs, Properly balanced, the camera lens combo will stay at any angle you care to leave it at, and yep you can pan in ever decreasing circles to your hearts content. :D
 
CT said:
Your current legs will be fine until you get a real monster lens I reckon.

When you get your 393 - attach the lens plate to the foot on the lens collar. When you mount the camera and lens onto the head - slide the plate into the shoe but don't tighten up the shoe yet. Keeping the lens well supported with your hand, slack off both the side torque knobs and slide the plate in the shoe till the camera hangs more or less horizontal with little or no support from you. At this point you've balanced the lens around it's centre of gravity - you want it neither nose (lens) heavy or tail (camera) heavy.

Now tighten up the shoe so the plate is secure, and apply just a little torque to each of the side knobs, Properly balanced the camera lens combo will stay at any angle you care to leave it at, and yep you can pan in ever decreasing circles to your hearts content. :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for that CT, it will save me reading the instructions tomorrow...........:LOL:
 
CT said:
Your current legs will be fine until you get a real monster lens I reckon.

When you get your 393 - attach the lens plate to the foot on the lens collar. When you mount the camera and lens onto the head - slide the plate into the shoe but don't tighten up the shoe yet. Keeping the lens well supported with your hand, slack off both the side torque knobs and slide the plate in the shoe till the camera hangs more or less horizontal with little or no support from you. At this point you've balanced the lens around it's centre of gravity - you want it neither nose (lens) heavy or tail (camera) heavy.

Now tighten up the shoe so the plate is secure, and apply just a little torque to each of the side knobs, Properly balanced the camera lens combo will stay at any angle you care to leave it at, and yep you can pan in ever decreasing circles to your hearts content. :D
Click to expand...

Thanks CT your a star :notworthy::notworthy:
 
LOL. Don't forget you can now slacken the clamp on the lens collar and rotate to portrait or landscape orientation any time you like too. Gimbals do more for your wildlife shots than probably any other item. If you add a converter you'll have to rebalance- even more so if you stick a flashgun on the camera - hence the need for the long plate to give you the adjustment range.
 
CT said:
LOL. Don't forget you can now slacken the clamp on the lens collar and rotate to portrait or landscape orientation any time you like too. Gimbals do more for you wildlife shots than probably any other item. If you add a converter you'll have to rebalance- even more so if you stick a flash on the camera - hence the need for the long plate to give you the adjustment range.
Click to expand...

Cheers, after so many shots that are oof ive decided to do something about it :LOL:
 
Shoot centre AF point only (assuming they're not BIF shots) Servo AF, and just concentrate on keeping that AF point on the head of the bird. Gimbals make it soooo much easier. ;)
 
Good man! It's a great bit of kit at a great price. (y)
 
393 is here Via Warehouseexpress, congrats to city link for a change.

Seems a cracking piece of kit,I shall find out later in the week..........(y)
 
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