Right, let's talk about basics..
Lighting is the creation of the right shadows in the right places. For most subjects and most situations, the light needs to be fairly high, because that's what we're used to seeing because most light comes either from the sky or from room lighting, which is high. Your light could have done with being higher, but the shot is OK.
Outdoors, light can be added for a couple of main reasons, either to
create lighting, so that the flash dominates the scene, or to add to the existing lighting, which is what you've done here and which is all that can be done in sunlight if you're using a low powered flash.
When you're overpowering the sun to create your own light, the position of the flash becomes even more critical, and the type of light shaper used, and the distance it's used at, is very important too - but you only used flash to add to the existing light and the light shaper, in this case an umbrella, wasn't really needed. And, as Richard has pointed out, a shoot through umbrella is a total waste of time when used outdoors. Putting a shoot through umbrella on the flash for outdoors fill, or fitting a softbox of similar size, just wastes flash power that you haven't got to start with, becasue they spread the light over a much laarger area.
HSS and TTL are the latest gadgets that everyone seems to think that they can't live without.. Both have their uses but it's my guess that hardly anyone actually needs either, let alone both, and the fact that you've spent a lot of extra money to have them on your flashgun doesn't mean that you have to use them...
HSS is basically just a continuous light, made up of a lot of tiny flashes joined together, it eats power but it does allow you to use a much faster shutter speed, which can be essential if you're photographing a fast moving subject, which yhou weren't. But using a fast shutter speed does allow you to use a large aperture to blur the background, which you did do, although of course you could have done that simply by fitting a neutral density filter over your camera lens.
TTL just measures the flash, and adjusts its power to balance it to the ambient light. Good for wedding photographers or for people who can't do the very simplest mental arithmetic and who can't estimate distance between flash and subject, Generally speaking, mental arithmatic works better simply because if, say, the guide number of the flash is 50 (m) , you want to shoot at f/11 to get the required depth of field and you've decided to have the sunlight twice as bright as your flash, and know that your subject is too far away to use f/11, then you can think of something else - like using a different aperture or moving closer. TTL will do that caculation for you but it can't make decisions for you and it can't force you to find a better way of doing it so, my advice is to learn how to use the flash manually, but to use TTL for shots that really matter until you've got to grips with estimating distance and doing simple sums so readily that you don't even have to think about it - when I first because a trainee photographer, electronic flash had just come into being but it was pretty useless, so we used flash bulbs. Shooting on Kodachrome meant that every exposure had to be perfect, and it always was, we just took the guide numbere, which from memory was 40 with the bulbs for colour photography and with Kodachrome, so at 10' that was f/4, at 8' it was f/5 and at 15' it was too far away
So, what I'm really saying is this: Think about what you want to achieve, think about the position of the light, the pose, the other things that really matter, don't obsess about gadgets that you don't even need.