Do DOF(for an equivalent field of view rather than the same focal lenght) and diffraction work at the same level meaning that effective results are similar at similar pixel densities no matter the sensor size.
What are reasonabley appatures aswell? I often find myself fighting between what I assume is diffraction and DOF when taking macro and landscape shots.
For close-ups I use Raynox 250, Raynox 150 and Canon 500D close-up lenses on a Canon SX10is, which has a sensor 6mm across, and a Panasonic G3, with has a sensor 18mm across.
I like to get the most DOF I can for my close-ups so I use small apertures. The smallest aperture on the SX10 is f/8. The smallest aperture on the G3 is f/22. I most often use these apertures for close-ups.
Using these small apertures I lose sharpness because of diffraction, but for my purposes this loss of sharpness seems tiny compared to the big gain in DOF. As an example,
these five images show the same subject using the Raynox 250 on the 45-200mm lens on the G3, with apertures of f/5.6 to f/22.
For an equivalent field of view, the SX10 and the G3 are about 3 stops apart in terms of DOF. For example, for a particular scene framed with the same field of view with the SX10 and the G3, I get roughly the same DOF using f/8 on the SX10 as I get using f/22 on the G3. This is true whether or not I am using a close-up lens. The Depth of Field Calculator
here illustrates this relationship. It says that:
For a G2 (it doesn't have the G3, but the sensor size is the same), with the subject 10ft away, using f/22 and a focal length of 200mm, the depth of field is 0.48 ft.
(For the G2, a focal length of 200mm is equivalent to 400mm in 35mm terms. For the SX10, a focal length of 71.5 mm is equivalent to 400mm in 35mm terms.)
For an SX10, with the subject 10ft away, using f/8 and a focal length of 71.5mm, the depth of field is 0.47 ft.
Therefore, for an equivalent field of view, the SX10 has the same DOF as the G3 when its aperture is three stops larger than the G3.
(There is another depth of field calculator
here that I sometimes find useful.)
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The Diffraction Limit Calculator on
this page says that a camera with a micro four thirds sensor like the G3 becomes diffraction limited between f/11 and f/16.
This calculator does not have a precise match for the 1/2.3" sensor of the SX10, so I have used the nearest it does have, 1/2". It says that a camera with a 1/2" sensor becomes diffraction limited between f/4 and f/5.6.
Therefore, the SX10 becomes diffraction limited when its aperture is about three stops larger than the G3's aperture.
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I believe the number of pixels on the sensors has not been a factor in any of these calculations. The DOF calculator I used might have known the number of pixels, but I have got similar results from the other DOF calculator I linked to, and that does not know about the number of pixels. The Diffraction Limit Calculator does not know about the number of pixels. So, for these calculations, the number of pixels on the sensor is not a factor.
Note though that these calculations relate to sharpness (for DOF) or loss of sharpness (for diffraction) that can be perceived by someone with "standard" eyesight looking at a print from a "standard" distance. For pixel-peeping images at 100% on screen, the number of pixels on the sensor presumably would be a factor.
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As to what is are reasonable apertures, I think that depends on several factors, some to do with what you are trying to achieve, and some to do with the shooting environment.
Other things being equal, and assuming you like having sharp images, then the nearer you can get to your lens' "sweet spot" aperture for sharpness, then the sharper the image will be.
However, if DOF is a key factor for your image, you should increase the aperture (to get a narrower DOF) or decrease the aperture (to get more DOF) as appropriate, as long as you are content to live with any loss of sharpness that may result (along with any other weaknesses that your lens may exhibit when away from its sweet spot, such as vignetting).
If light levels are poor, and the ISO is as high as you are prepared to go, then you may need to increase the aperture to get a usably fast shutter speed, or use flash (if practical, which of course it would not be for landscape shots). For close-ups, the loss of DOF from increasing the aperture might spoil an image, depending on your taste. If you use flash as your main light source you will be able to use whatever aperture (and DOF) you want, but there are a number of other issues you need to take into account if using flash.
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I think that photography benefits from some understanding of the various factors that play into the look and IQ of an image, and the options for capturing the image, and a practical grasp of the trade-offs between those factors.