Beginner Holding the camera better

It's sharp for it's day, but you'd get a lot more detail (and apparent sharpness) with something like a 5DS these days; you'd see virtually every skin pore and tiny hair that was in focus. Would that have significantly improved that photo though? I very much doubt it! And that's the point I was making. :)

The sharper things are and the more detail/resolution, the more spot on you have to be with your focus point when using a shallow depth of field, as a couple of millimetres either way can become critically apparent... so buying the latest high resolution camera and technically excellent lenses can actually make you appear a worse photographer, not a better one! So be careful for what you wish for!
This last part is so true
I had a Nikon D5100 (beginner range) and sigma 70-200 plus others, I decided to jump to a Nikon D500 (best Nikon crop) and I was gutted, spent all my wedge on a nice new body, so decided the lens was letting it down, splashed out in n the latest Nikon 70-200 2.8 and it just got worse.

I mean they weren’t bad but I was looking at old pics with my £250 body and £75 lens and new £1500 body and £2500 lens and thinking what a complete waste of money.

but then you realise the old gear hid a lot of my bad habits and poor ability.

now I’ve learnt and I had to really work hard, it’s fine but I still get far less keepers with the D500 Than I did with the D5100, and all down to me.
 
Keeping a camera and lens still during exposure, Is an increasing problem that comes to all of us as we age.
Various forms of "essential Tremor" accounts for most of it.
It is controlled to some extent by the various anti shake mechanisms employed in modern cameras.
And by the use of appropriate shutter speeds.

The most problematic form of it is "essential Tremor" "with intent", that means it is triggered by the action of trying to do something...Like firing a shutter, or lifting a full cup of hot tea.
I have this problem and can control it in two ways. Such tremor is made worse by insufficient counter pressure. So is worse when trying to be gentle and accurate.
Using two hands when doing accurate actions helps a great deal .. Two hands on a mouse for instance. or two hands holding that cup of tea. one hand provides the necessary counter pressure/ tension, to steady the other. It prevents the natural oscillation that is set up by the lack of muscle control.

I have developed a grip to hold my camera, using both index fingers to release the shutter. This eliminates the "Intent" problem and also the resulting shake almost completely. However it does little for the residual background shaking which is far better controlled by the use of a short "Chest pod", Or "monopod"
This illustrations show what I use and how I do it. I can now release the shutter very smoothly.

The picture showing my grip, was a capture of the actual grip and two fingered shutter press in action... It works.
T30X1275-copy.jpg
 
Hi Terry. That looks very good! :clap:Thanks for the explanation of your method. I like the way you've worked out the mechanics of how hand tremor is activated from intent of a given action and how you found what looks like a very effective way with your photography to reduce it by using both fingers and the chest pod. I must say, I've heard of monopods but never knew there was such a thing as a chest pod! :)
 
Hi Terry. That looks very good! :clap:Thanks for the explanation of your method. I like the way you've worked out the mechanics of how hand tremor is activated from intent of a given action and how you found what looks like a very effective way with your photography to reduce it by using both fingers and the chest pod. I must say, I've heard of monopods but never knew there was such a thing as a chest pod! :)

Chest pods were quite common in the 50's and 60's but not much seen today.
The one in my picture is a mash up of the centre column from a slik table tripod, a quick release and mini ball head. And a base made from a slice of a solid rubber ball and a turned wood sub base with 1/4 Screw. I had to plug the based of the centre column and insert a brass screw thread.

I can still use it in the slik table tripod.
 
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I find the worst offenders for inducing shake are EVF's. If you think of your feet as being planted then your head is the other end of a lever at which any movement is exaggerated. If I feel myself swaying and don't feel I can get it I'll often hold the camera loosely away from my body and rely on the screen instead. There is definitely a knack to it though, and if I do use the EVF you need to see and fire.
 
I find the worst offenders for inducing shake are EVF's. If you think of your feet as being planted then your head is the other end of a lever at which any movement is exaggerated. If I feel myself swaying and don't feel I can get it I'll often hold the camera loosely away from my body and rely on the screen instead. There is definitely a knack to it though, and if I do use the EVF you need to see and fire.

Ouch, I just ordered a camera with EVF! But I'm hoping to do some wide angle and low to the ground street shots so I'll probably find myself using the screen a lot.
 
@Doom Patrol

I am having trouble working out how an EVF can lead to the sort of issue you describe.

I come from SLR days with OVF (my Canon 5D3 has an OVF and my Olympus has an OVF).....now granted that some current digital bodies have their EVF's offset and I can perceive that if someone has never used an old style rangefinder camera (many had offset viewfinders) it might be disconcerting.

Can I ask are you right or left eye dominant, as in which eye do you use when looking through the viewfinder? Also, which camera exactly are you using? The answers to both questions could throw some light on your experiences with your camera!

We all have different camera usage experiences and to make the sweeping statement without qualifying it can be misleading.

PS should have checked your profile first, your Fuji XT3 is dSLR.......so ignore that particular question ;)
 
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Keeping a camera and lens still during exposure, Is an increasing problem that comes to all of us as we age.
Various forms of "essential Tremor" accounts for most of it.
It is controlled to some extent by the various anti shake mechanisms employed in modern cameras.
And by the use of appropriate shutter speeds.

The most problematic form of it is "essential Tremor" "with intent", that means it is triggered by the action of trying to do something...Like firing a shutter, or lifting a full cup of hot tea.
I have this problem and can control it in two ways. Such tremor is made worse by insufficient counter pressure. So is worse when trying to be gentle and accurate.
Using two hands when doing accurate actions helps a great deal .. Two hands on a mouse for instance. or two hands holding that cup of tea. one hand provides the necessary counter pressure/ tension, to steady the other. It prevents the natural oscillation that is set up by the lack of muscle control.

I have developed a grip to hold my camera, using both index fingers to release the shutter. This eliminates the "Intent" problem and also the resulting shake almost completely. However it does little for the residual background shaking which is far better controlled by the use of a short "Chest pod", Or "monopod"
This illustrations show what I use and how I do it. I can now release the shutter very smoothly.

The picture showing my grip, was a capture of the actual grip and two fingered shutter press in action... It works.
View attachment 294579


Oh - two finger technique - sounds rude to me - just try with and without tripod and check the difference
Yuo would probably be better off with a string tripod
 
Oh - two finger technique - sounds rude to me - just try with and without tripod and check the difference
Yuo would probably be better off with a string tripod
Do you suppose for one minute that I have not tried just about every thing..
Of course I have a number of tripods and use them when appropriate.
However there are many occasions when hand holding is far more appropriate. And for those I use my two fingered release and a chest or monopod.
This shot which I have shown before was taken using a monopod with a XC 55-230 at full zoom across a high street.
The pigeon shot (100% clips) was taken with just using the grip and leaning against a wall.
My hand shake is bad enough to need to take medication to help control it..
So my methods work well enough.... as you can see....TXE4432-3XCweb.jpg_TXE4153-web-100%.jpg
 
I find the worst offenders for inducing shake are EVF's. If you think of your feet as being planted then your head is the other end of a lever at which any movement is exaggerated. If I feel myself swaying and don't feel I can get it I'll often hold the camera loosely away from my body and rely on the screen instead. There is definitely a knack to it though, and if I do use the EVF you need to see and fire.


That is far from the truth. but It might be to do with an incorrect method of holding the camera when using an EVF.
As with using the optical viewfinder on a SLR or range finder, or the EVF on a DSLR. the hold you use should entail pressing the camera firmly against the face with the elbows held in against the body to make a three point hold. This is the way it has been done since eyelevel finders were first incorporated, and is highly effective.
Waist level cameras were best used with the camera pressed against the body,

However body swaying rarely caused camera shake, but it can cause focus shift, however the camera is held. It can be virtually eliminated with practice, or with the use of a monopod. to create a third fixing point.
However a firm stance with legs apart and one foot in front of the other is usually sufficient to prevent sway.
 
Very nice photos Terry, and I like the way you caught the interesting expression on the man's face. :)
 
A few years ago I visited the Dimbola Museum on the Isle of Wight. There was an exhibition of photos taken early last century of sailing yachts taken from another yacht. The photographer used a large format camera which he held in both hands whilst bracing himself in the moving yacht, he had cut the bulb off his old fashioned remote shutter release and triggered the shutter by blowing down the tube!
The clarity, sharpness and compositions were amazing. No vibration compensation in those days
 
A few years ago I visited the Dimbola Museum on the Isle of Wight. There was an exhibition of photos taken early last century of sailing yachts taken from another yacht. The photographer used a large format camera which he held in both hands whilst bracing himself in the moving yacht, he had cut the bulb off his old fashioned remote shutter release and triggered the shutter by blowing down the tube!
The clarity, sharpness and compositions were amazing. No vibration compensation in those days

That would have been the Beken family... who are still shooting marine images.
Frank Beken designed his own camera as a pair of sliding boxes driven by a rack and pinion for focussing. ( rather than the usual bellows of the time) He held the bulb of the air release between his teeth.

a method I have adopted to fire the cameras on my Phone, with one of these between my teeth. it lets me hold it firmly with both hands, avoiding my shake problem.
 
@Doom Patrol

I am having trouble working out how an EVF can lead to the sort of issue you describe.

Can I ask are you right or left eye dominant, as in which eye do you use when looking through the viewfinder? Also, which camera exactly are you using? The answers to both questions could throw some light on your experiences with your camera!

We all have different camera usage experiences and to make the sweeping statement without qualifying it can be misleading.

I maybe should have qualified that a little more. It's entirely possible that it's only the way I perceive it. I think it depends on the circumstances really. I mean I do use the EVF. It's really the only way to see what effect you are having on your exposure when it's bright.

I do have funny eyes one is long sighted, t'other is short sighted. I use my right eye, which I think is the long one, with the diopter adjusted accordingly.


That is far from the truth. but It might be to do with an incorrect method of holding the camera when using an EVF.

However body swaying rarely caused camera shake, but it can cause focus shift, however the camera is held. It can be virtually eliminated with practice, or with the use of a monopod. to create a third fixing point.
However a firm stance with legs apart and one foot in front of the other is usually sufficient to prevent sway.

Again, that is entirely possible. I've always done my own thing and never been taught, as such.
 
Ouch, I just ordered a camera with EVF! But I'm hoping to do some wide angle and low to the ground street shots so I'll probably find myself using the screen a lot.

I wouldn't take my word for it. These things are always personal anyway.
 
I find the worst offenders for inducing shake are EVF's. If you think of your feet as being planted then your head is the other end of a lever at which any movement is exaggerated. If I feel myself swaying and don't feel I can get it I'll often hold the camera loosely away from my body and rely on the screen instead. There is definitely a knack to it though, and if I do use the EVF you need to see and fire.
I maybe should have qualified that a little more. It's entirely possible that it's only the way I perceive it. I think it depends on the circumstances really. I mean I do use the EVF. It's really the only way to see what effect you are having on your exposure when it's bright.

I do have funny eyes one is long sighted, t'other is short sighted. I use my right eye, which I think is the long one, with the diopter adjusted accordingly.




Again, that is entirely possible. I've always done my own thing and never been taught, as such.

The thing to bear in mind is that postural balance is not just about the inner ear but also sight.

As far as I appreciate, a test as to whether your muscle tone and balance are good(?) is:-
When you are standing still though not using the camera are you, other than the slight wobble/sway that can exist, are you aok compared to what happens if you then close your eyes...... i.e. with your eyes closed is there any change ~ at worst feeling like you are falling over?

Any such difference is kind of similar to using using the camera held away from the face to use the rear LCD i.e. both eyes used vs eye at the viewfinder with the other likely closed = your view of the world is only through the viewfinder and that limited "view" might be affecting your balance hence potentially what you are describing???
 
I also have one eye that is long sighted and one that is short sighted, so much so that I cannot see in stereo.
My spectacles prevent me holding the camera tight against my face but I don't have a problem with swaying or wobbling. However a few years ago I did start balance exercises, when brushing my teeth I stand on one leg whilst doing the top set and the other leg whilst doing the bottom.
I can now stand on one leg for over a minute with both eyes shut!
 
I also have one eye that is long sighted and one that is short sighted, so much so that I cannot see in stereo.
My spectacles prevent me holding the camera tight against my face but I don't have a problem with swaying or wobbling. However a few years ago I did start balance exercises, when brushing my teeth I stand on one leg whilst doing the top set and the other leg whilst doing the bottom.
I can now stand on one leg for over a minute with both eyes shut!

I have the glasses problem too. But I use hardened real glass bifocals. So they do not usually get scratched. I just let the camera press them into my face.
It is a more expensive option but it works for me.. My latest ones I did not have heat hardened, and now have a small scratch.... luckily not in the line of sight.
The hardened ones meet all the industrial safety standards.
 
This is what I like about this place. You learn a lot. I must admit I hadn't really thought about the way I photograph too much. I never realised there was so much to it.
 
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