Beginner How do I get a moving photo image, like a photo that shows movement?

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Rich
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Hi, I'm new to photography and am trying to take a photo that shows movement, like those which show water motion in a waterfall, or car lights at night when the light is lots of light lines.

I tried it on a ship moving, so I set the shutter speed to 1 second. But when I look at the image theres just too much light (just light). I dropped the ISO as far down as it could go (L1.0) but still got light.

I tried to something similar with a flag flying, but the same thing happened because of the bright sky background.

Could I increase the f value to it's maximum to reduce the aperture size (and let in less light), together with the decrease in ISO?

Just curious how I would do this?

Thank you for any advice.
 
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Hi Rich, welcome to the forum.

So you want to take photos that show blur caused by movement. First question: do you know about the exposure triangle (shutter speed, aperture, sensitivity also called ISO)?

Your camera sensor requires a certain amount of light to generate a meaningful image. If you want to have the shutter open for longer then you need to make the aperture that lets light through the lens to be smaller to compensate. A smaller aperture requires a bigger f number (not logical, but there is a good reason). Sensitivity - ISO - affects the amount of light required to reach the sensor, higher ISO is more sensitive and requires less light.

You should also select the least sensitive native ISO setting, which is likely to be 100 or perhaps 200 - a setting like L1.0 is fudging things a bit, and is not really lower than base ISO.

So having done that, if a 'correct' exposure (i.e. one chosen by the cameras metering system in auto) is something like 1/125 at f4, you can change that to get the SAME exposure with a smaller aperture and longer shutter speed: 1/60 f5.6, 1/30 f8.0, 1/15 f11, 1/8 f16, 1/4 f22. If the auto setting suggested 1/250 at f8.0 (a possibility on a bright day) then the corresponding series would be 1/125 f11, 1/60 f16, 1/30 f22.

If you want a longer exposure in bright light then you should consider a neutral density filter. These are available to screw onto the front of your lens, or to slip into a mount fitted onto your lens. Prices vary - SRB photographic are very good value, while Lee and similar are very high quality - shop around. These filters will reduce the light entering the lens by a pre-determined level: 2 stops, 3 stops, 5 stops, 10 stops etc. A 10 stop filter would change that exposure of 1/250 at f8.0 to 4 seconds at f8.0, however it will also make the viewfinder very dark, and focussing & framing will be nearly impossible with an optical viewfinder (electronic viewfinders will 'gain up' so you can still see the image) so that you would have to compose and focus before putting the filter on.

For longer exposures you will need a tripod unless you want everything in the image to be blurred.

Hope that helps answer your questions.
 
Hi Rich,

You'll need to get yourself a tripod and a neutral density filter.

The phrase 'long exposure' will help you find all the info you need on the Google/pootube.
 
Yes, research long exposure photography. You quickly need the use of some method of camera support - tripod, beanbag or something like that as you end up with camera shake disrupting what you are trying to achieve.

An exposure is a balance of shutter speed, aperture (f-stop) and light sensitivity (ISO), and in auto or priority modes the camera may be working against you, so might be best to experiment with manual mode. You're having to balance three variables, if you have an idea on time required, set shutter speed and adjust aperture and iso, If you have an idea of what depth of field you want, set your f-stop accordingly, and balance with shutter speed to get the effect you want and could then fine tune using ISO.

If that doesn't work, you'll need to add an ND filter to reduce light further.
 
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Hello all, thank you very much for the warm welcome and very helpful comments!! I'm watching some youtube videos to try learn, but know I have a long way to go!

So you want to take photos that show blur caused by movement. First question: do you know about the exposure triangle (shutter speed, aperture, sensitivity also called ISO)?


That was the original idea, but not having much success. As I understand it shutter speed is how long the shutter stays open for, aperture is the size of the hole for the light coming in and ISO controls the sensor sensitivity to light.

I'm okay with the shutter and ISO as I think they're kind of intuitive, although haven't noticed much difference with say 1/200 and 1/100(?). So just being using a general 1/200 setting for the shutter. But the aperture is quite hard to understand. For example, I thought that a lower f value (high opening) isolates the frontground (because it controls field of view), but then on a high f value the background and foreground can be in focus. Why would a smaller aperture allow both to be more in focus?

Also, my lens goes from f3.5-6.3 but I can set an f value of f22 on my camera, so what controls the f value; the lens or the camera? If the lens only goes up to f6.3 what would setting a value of f22 on the camera do?

I'm guessing that the range f3.5-6.3 is quite limited and you would need a lower f value to really appreciate bringing things more into the foreground?

Your camera sensor requires a certain amount of light to generate a meaningful image. If you want to have the shutter open for longer then you need to make the aperture that lets light through the lens to be smaller to compensate. A smaller aperture requires a bigger f number (not logical, but there is a good reason). Sensitivity - ISO - affects the amount of light required to reach the sensor, higher ISO is more sensitive and requires less light.

You should also select the least sensitive native ISO setting, which is likely to be 100 or perhaps 200 - a setting like L1.0 is fudging things a bit, and is not really lower than base ISO.

Ahh yes, I though f would have to be high as well as the low ISO. Didn't know about the base ISO. Learning that ISO is very sensitive! For example I live near the coast and took some pictures of some ships on the water, but didn't factor in the light reflecting from the water, also noticed this when pointing the camera towards the sky.

So having done that, if a 'correct' exposure (i.e. one chosen by the cameras metering system in auto) is something like 1/125 at f4, you can change that to get the SAME exposure with a smaller aperture and longer shutter speed: 1/60 f5.6, 1/30 f8.0, 1/15 f11, 1/8 f16, 1/4 f22. If the auto setting suggested 1/250 at f8.0 (a possibility on a bright day) then the corresponding series would be 1/125 f11, 1/60 f16, 1/30 f22.

I see. Also, I'm using manual settings, generally not going far from ISO100 to ISO200, f3-5-5 and shutter speed 1/200. Would you recommend switching to auto to start with?

If you want a longer exposure in bright light then you should consider a neutral density filter. These are available to screw onto the front of your lens, or to slip into a mount fitted onto your lens. Prices vary - SRB photographic are very good value, while Lee and similar are very high quality - shop around. These filters will reduce the light entering the lens by a pre-determined level: 2 stops, 3 stops, 5 stops, 10 stops etc. A 10 stop filter would change that exposure of 1/250 at f8.0 to 4 seconds at f8.0, however it will also make the viewfinder very dark, and focussing & framing will be nearly impossible with an optical viewfinder (electronic viewfinders will 'gain up' so you can still see the image) so that you would have to compose and focus before putting the filter on.

For longer exposures you will need a tripod unless you want everything in the image to be blurred.

Hope that helps answer your questions.

I see, yes I can see how more equipment would be needed. I spent a fortune on this camera (D500), well a lot for me, last time I spent this much I was buying a car! But heard it was one of the best cameras available for the price and got a pretty good deal on it. So, I may have to save up a little first!

Hi Rich,

You'll need to get yourself a tripod and a neutral density filter.

The phrase 'long exposure' will help you find all the info you need on the Google/pootube.

I see, okay, I will look up that on youtube (or pootube lol), thanks!

Yes, research long exposure photography. You quickly need the use of some method of camera support - tripod, beanbag or something like that as you end up with camera shake disrupting what you are trying to achieve.

An exposure is a balance of shutter speed, aperture (f-stop) and light sensitivity (ISO), and in auto or priority modes the camera may be working against you, so might be best to experiment with manual mode. You're having to balance three variables, if you have an idea on time required, set shutter speed and adjust aperture and iso, If you have an idea of what depth of field you want, set your f-stop accordingly, and balance with shutter speed to get the effect you want and could then fine tune using ISO.

If that doesn't work, you'll need to add an ND filter to reduce light further.

I'm definitely still learning, and yes I thought it would be best to start things in manual mode, although it's a bit complicated. Thank you for the advice.

Thanks again, I've always wanted to try photography and the coronavirus has given me some time to try it, as well as giving me something to focus on because I'm going crazy at home!
 
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the f 3.5 - f 6.5 refers to the widest possible aperture at each end of the zoom scale. More expensive lenses are often constant aperture, so could achieve f/2.8 (for example) at both the wide end and the long end of the zoom range. The narrow aperture (eg f22) is never quoted on the lenses headline specification.

Someone once described aperture as the difference between turning a tap on a lot or a little.. Turning the tap on a little means the sink fills slowly, and this is effective the narrow aperture or a large f number - it controls the flow of light. Turning the tap on fully means the sink fills quickly, and this is a wide aperture (small f number). Completing the sink analogy is time, and a full sink represents a 'correct' exposure. Choice is a narrow aperture and long time, or a wider aperture and a lot less time or for most photography a compromise between the two in the middle. This description isn't strong enough to incorporate the light sensitivity aspect.

In each of the semi-automatic modes, you get full control of two aspects, and it tries to handle the third - so in shutter priority mode you set shutter speed and ISO, in aperture priority, you set aperture and ISO and it trys to set shutter speed. For many subjects these are fine, but there are times it doesn't know what you are trying to achieve and may well work against you.

If you are trying to freeze flowing water, you may need to dial in a shutter speed of a second or more, or if car headlights at dusk several seconds. If you're not on a water meter you could experiment with a hose pipe or bathroom tap. If not, wait until restrictions are lifted or can safely isolate yourself by a local stream or a fountain.
 
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Could I increase the f value to it's maximum to reduce the aperture size (and let in less light), together with the decrease in ISO?.
Do you understand 'The Exposure Triangle'?
You have 3 'settings' on your camera; 1/ the Shutter Speed 2/ The Aperture or F-No 3/ The ISO 'Sensitivity'
For any scene, there's a certain intensity of light falling on your subject, being reflected into the lens of your camera, which has a 'meter' in it to measure that intensity.
In olden days you used to guesstimate the light intensity of your scene by eye, and probably used the f16 Sunny rule of thumb to decide what shutter and aperture settings to pick for whatever film speed (ISO) you had. Then came electronics and hand held meters that gave an EV or exposure value, and they usually had a neat little computator dial, you set to the ISO of the film you had loaded and then the measured EV, and could read off a range of corresponding f-numbers and shutter speeds that all gave the same 'Exposure' for that light.
More modern cameras had inbuilt 'Through Taking Lens' or TTL metering, and more sophisticated ones still had 'coupled' metering, that actually made one or other of the settings for you.
This explains a couple of the 'exposure modes' you might have spotted on the dial on your camera. Green Box, 'Full Auto' lets the cameras electrikery decide what aperture, shutter and ISO settings it's programmers think probably best for the EV the camera meters. Aperture Priority, leaves you to select the ISO, and the aperture you want, then the electrickery picks the shutter speed to balance those to the metered EV. Shutter Priority does the same thing, only you pick the shutter speed and the camera picks the balancing aperture.
In full 'Manual' (exposure control) mode, you get a hi-lo indicator in the view-finder or on the back screen, that tells you whether the aperture, shutter and ISO settings you have dialled in will result in over or under exposure, and leaves you to twiddle the settings to get the balance between them.
Which is a long way round way of saying... It DEPENDS..... what exposure mode you are using!
If you are on Shutter Priority mode, stopping the aperture down will just result in the camera stopping the shutter speed up, to balance the metered EV.
If you are on Full Manual mode, you have to balance the settings yourself... so yes, if you want to use a longer shutter speed you would probably need to drop the ISO, and or higher F-No to balance the exposure triangle,
B-U-T... where is the Exposure Value coming from... and if you are getting 'bright' images, is that close to 'right' to start with?
Inference of your query suggests its NOT... some-how you are getting over exposure, your 'light' images, or perhaps you are getting an over-exposure indicator flash up for the settings you have elected.
If you are trying to make settings manually, and are getting and ignoring an over exposure warning, then yes,you need to close down the aperture, and or drop the ISO to keep the balance (or find the balance) for the brightness of your scene.
If you are using a semi-auto mode like Shutter priority, then you may have to dialling a bit of exposure compensation, where the in-camera-meter is possibly being fooled a bit by things like a bright back-ground, and suggesting you need more exposure than you actually want.
Comes down to understanding the exposure triangle, and how that translates to your camera and the more or less coupled metering modes it has.
OTHERWISE... if you are exploring longer exposures, then you almost certainly need a tripod and remote release to keep the camera still and stop the subject streaking in the picture from the camera moving rather than subject movement.
The old rule of thumb to avoid motion blur was to keep the Shutter Speed over 1/Focal length of the lens. So if you were using a 50mm lens, you were advised to keep the shutter speed above 1/60th Seconds. If a zoom, say a 35-70, the advice was to keep the shutter over 1/LONGEST Focal length of the lens, cos it was still that big and had that much leverage over the camera regardless of the chosen zoom setting, so 1/125s. This advice is a bit thrown to pit these days, especially with Vibration Reduction mechanisms in the lens... but it aint far off! But, you have an 18-200mm lens.. even with VR, you 'aught' really be keeping the shutter speed up over 1/100th to avoid camera shake blurr when hand holding, so dropping to 1s or more for deliberate motion blurr? Get a tripod!
Worth mentioning, but most cameras 'settings' are made just before shutter release. There are cameras that will, in suitable metering mode, 'adjust' the exposure in real time whilst the shutter is open, and the immediate example of this is the old Olympus OM film cameras that had an Off the Film meter, that measured the light intensity falling on the film, and would, usually stretch, often interminably, the shutter speed after the shutter was released, if light levels changed. This made light painting and long exposures and things like stage photography their 'party piece'. But most cameras make their aperture and shutter settings before the shutter is opened, and that's what you get for however long the shutter is open, and regardless of any change in lighting. And pushing longer shutter speeds, so the more likely that things will change during exposure.
You then get into the arena, less pronounced now with digital, of 'Reciprocity failure; where at long exposures, the film, or sensor, doesn't respond at the expected ISO,
B~U~T... you mention milking water falls... good example there; if you meter the scene, lets say you get a good old fashioned F-16 sunny EV that suggests f16 and 1/100th second shutter. Thats fine as long as the shutter speed is that short. But, as you stretch the shutter, the water reflecting the ambient light is streaking down the frame, and reflecting umpety times onto the film or sensor before the shutter closes. Now you can chuck whatever setting suggestions the cameras TTL meter suggests to the wind, you are trying to capture highlights, so you may need settings to under expose the whole scene to stop the whole picture 'blowing' and turning your twinkling waterfall into a mush of milk, and/or you may need setting to over expose the water and stop the detail in the mid-tomes beneath blending into the shaddows.
Enter the 'Craft' and knowing when the camera isn't going to give you what you expect or want... and more,. knowing what to do about it!
This is why milky waterfalls have become something of a cliche and Soooooo over done. It used to be an academic exercise, in where the electrickery in a camera was unhelpful as well as in 'effect' exploiting the aperture and shutter controls to get something that isn't actually as real life. But still.
Bottom line... you need to understand the exposure triangle to balance your exposure, and you need to know what metering modes you have and which is most appropriate.

Expanding on the F-Number issue mentioned by Mariner. The 'aperture' is exactly that, a hole, inside the lens that light goes through. The F-Number is a ratio of the effective hole diameter to the focal length of the lens. Eg, is you have a 50mm focal length lens, with an aperture of 25mm diameter, then 50mm/25mm gives you F2. A bigger hole, that lets in more light, say 35mm, would give you 35/50 or f1.4. So the F-no gets SMALLER the bigger the hole. Smaller the hole, so the bigger the F-No, so same 50mm lens, an F-No of 22, would denote a hole diameter of 2&1/4mm 'effective' diameter. Note I say effective diameter... lens apertures are rarely round!

On the topic of buying more gear: I have said if you want to experiment with long exposures that a tripod is virtually essential; in fact at anything less than perhaps 1/30th of a second it will be, With a practised hand, I can with a 35mm lens hand hold sort of satisfactorily to about 1.4s... to the point that VR is essentially dong nothing for me, but I'd rarely go lower than about 1/30th, even at 18mm and a LOT more at longer focal lengths, HOWEVER! You 'may' improvise.

Basically you are using the tripod to hold the camera still on a support. That support doesn't have to be a set of legs with a neat screw into the bottom of the camera. It 'just' has to support the camera and stop you shaking it, I have, very often rested a camera on a park bench or dry stone wall or other convenient impromptu support, and leveled the aim with a scrunched up jumper or screwed up fag packet or whatever. THEN so I don't have to touch it to press the shutter, fired it on the self timer, built into the camera, when I haven;t had a convenient cable release or IR remote...

You DO NOT need to spend huge sums of money on photo-parafanalia.... you can get results with just a little know how and craftiness, like this. (I have been known to use a pair of sunglasses in front of a camera without filter thread in substitute for a grey-grad as well! )It's ALL in the know how and having enough to know what you DON'T need, as much as what you DO!
















'
 
That was the original idea, but not having much success. As I understand it shutter speed is how long the shutter stays open for, aperture is the size of the hole for the light coming in and ISO controls the sensor sensitivity to light.

I'm okay with the shutter and ISO as I think they're kind of intuitive, although haven't noticed much difference with say 1/200 and 1/100(?). So just being using a general 1/200 setting for the shutter. But the aperture is quite hard to understand. For example, I thought that a lower f value (high opening) isolates the frontground (because it controls field of view), but then on a high f value the background and foreground can be in focus. Why would a smaller aperture allow both to be more in focus?

the difference between say 1/200 and 1/100 is double the amount of light - an exposure made at 1/100 second will leave the shutter open twice as long and let in twice the light of an exposure made at 1/200 second.

Is your lens the a 'superzoom', going from 18mm to 200+mm? Like Andrew said, f3.5 is the biggest aperture at the 18mm and f6.3 at the other end. The minimum aperture is probably f22 at the wide and and f32 at the long end.

Depth of field of focus is a affected by both aperture and focal length. A shorter focal length will also have a wider area in focus than a longer one for a given aperture. TBH you don't want to worry about that for now - I'd suggest setting the aperture f8 until you're more familiar with the kit. I don't really have time to explain about why aperture affects depth of field of focus - it's enough to know for now that it does.


Ahh yes, I though f would have to be high as well as the low ISO. Didn't know about the base ISO. Learning that ISO is very sensitive! For example I live near the coast and took some pictures of some ships on the water, but didn't factor in the light reflecting from the water, also noticed this when pointing the camera towards the sky.

Base ISO is the lowest ISO the camera can use - in this case 100.


I see. Also, I'm using manual settings, generally not going far from ISO100 to ISO200, f3-5-5 and shutter speed 1/200. Would you recommend switching to auto to start with?

Yes. Your D500 has several modes, but I would suggest trying either full program mode (to see what the camera suggests) or aperture priority mode (A on the mode dial) allowing you to select the aperture and the camera to set the required shutter speed. Look and learn to see what the camera selects and the effect those choices have on howe the pictures look, so that you can learn about the relationship of aperure, shutter speed, depth of field etc, and in time choose your own settings based on how you want the photo to look.

I see, yes I can see how more equipment would be needed. I spent a fortune on this camera (D500), well a lot for me, last time I spent this much I was buying a car! But heard it was one of the best cameras available for the price and got a pretty good deal on it. So, I may have to save up a little first!

The D500 is a really excellent camera, and a good investment. Depending on the size of your lens, a ND filter may be £20 or so.

I'm definitely still learning, and yes I thought it would be best to start things in manual mode, although it's a bit complicated. Thank you for the advice.

Keep manual mode for the times that you need to override the cameras choices i.e. when it's snowy or you need to take a picture against a very bright or dark background that will fool the camera.

Have fun. :)
 
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Wow, there's a lot of info there and it's really appreciated, thank you. If I may, I'll just pick out some of the main points.

the f 3.5 - f 6.5 refers to the widest possible aperture at each end of the zoom scale. More expensive lenses are often constant aperture, so could achieve f/2.8 (for example) at both the wide end and the long end of the zoom range. The narrow aperture (eg f22) is never quoted on the lenses headline specification.
.

Ahh, so at 18mm the aperture can be wider (f3.5) than at 200mm (f5.6). I understand now, and the camera wont let me decrease the aperture from 5.6 when the lens is fully extended. Thanks for clearing that up. The tap is a good analogy and I'll try some tests on a running tap for a practice.

Do you understand 'The Exposure Triangle'?

You have 3 'settings' on your camera; 1/ the Shutter Speed 2/ The Aperture or F-No 3/ The ISO 'Sensitivity'

Working on it! The info in your post is helpful.

Aperture Priority, leaves you to select the ISO, and the aperture you want, then the electrickery picks the shutter speed to balance those to the metered EV. Shutter Priority does the same thing, only you pick the shutter speed and the camera picks the balancing aperture.

Will try these modes next as it could help me learn how the settings relate. Will work through the other comments on the longer shutter speeds, thanks.

If you are trying to make settings manually, and are getting and ignoring an over exposure warning, then yes,you need to close down the aperture, and or drop the ISO to keep the balance (or find the balance) for the brightness of your scene.

Hmm, I havm't seen any warning, this has me slightly concerned, is it possible to damage the sensor of the camera?

But, you have an 18-200mm lens.. even with VR, you 'aught' really be keeping the shutter speed up over 1/100th to avoid camera shake blurr when hand holding, so dropping to 1s or more for deliberate motion blurr? Get a tripod!

Sounds like good advice, noted!

B~U~T... you mention milking water falls... good example there; if you meter the scene, lets say you get a good old fashioned F-16 sunny EV that suggests f16 and 1/100th second shutter. Thats fine as long as the shutter speed is that short. But, as you stretch the shutter, the water reflecting the ambient light is streaking down the frame, and reflecting umpety times onto the film or sensor before the shutter closes. Now you can chuck whatever setting suggestions the cameras TTL meter suggests to the wind, you are trying to capture highlights, so you may need settings to under expose the whole scene to stop the whole picture 'blowing' and turning your twinkling waterfall into a mush of milk, and/or you may need setting to over expose the water and stop the detail in the mid-tomes beneath blending into the shaddows.

Enter the 'Craft' and knowing when the camera isn't going to give you what you expect or want... and more,. knowing what to do about it!

This is why milky waterfalls have become something of a cliche and Soooooo over done. It used to be an academic exercise, in where the electrickery in a camera was unhelpful as well as in 'effect' exploiting the aperture and shutter controls to get something that isn't actually as real life. But still.

Bottom line... you need to understand the exposure triangle to balance your exposure, and you need to know what metering modes you have and which is most appropriate.

Ok, perhaps I will work on my settings more before venturing into waterfalls / ships / traffic! Thank you for the other advice on equipment, some interesting improvisions there! Will keep my mind open before buying any more stuff (which after the camera can't really afford at the moment anyway!).

Is your lens the a 'superzoom', going from 18mm to 200+mm?

Yes, it goes from 18 to 200mm, can't post links yet because I'm new so will try post as bb code, it's this one:

Code:
https://i.imgur.com/O40onmH.png

I'd suggest setting the aperture f8 until you're more familiar with the kit. I don't really have time to explain about why aperture affects depth of field of focus - it's enough to know for now that it does.

Wow, didn't realise f8 would perhaps be a good aperture to work with, I set it lower so the aperture would be bigger and I could reduce the ISO (and there would be less noise), but will give it a try for learning.

The D500 is a really excellent camera, and a good investment. Depending on the size of your lens, a ND filter may be £20 or so.

Keep manual mode for the times that you need to override the cameras choices i.e. when it's snowy or you need to take a picture against a very bright or dark background that will fool the camera.

Have fun. :)

Thanks, it was a close call between the D500 and the XT-3, watched a few youtube videos that recommended the former, although some said buy both lol
 
Wow, didn't realise f8 would perhaps be a good aperture to work with, I set it lower so the aperture would be bigger and I could reduce the ISO (and there would be less noise), but will give it a try for learning.

F/8 is often the sharpest aperture for many lenses. because of physics, very small or very large apertures tend to be 'softer'. When referring to sharper vs softer, I'm talking about the part of the image thats supposed to be in focus, so while f/22 will give you lots of stuff 'in focus', those bits won't be as sharp as the 'in focus' bits at f/8 or f/11. The aperture at which a lens is sharpest is known as the sweet spot and varies from lens to lens. f/8 is often where the lens is sharp, and also provides enough depth of field to have everything in focus.

Now, if you use a tripod (hint hint!) you can shoot at f/8 and ISO 100 all day long. You can use the sweet spot of the lens, use the lowest ISO for minimum noise, and avoid motion blur/camera shake
 
F/8 is often the sharpest aperture for many lenses. because of physics, very small or very large apertures tend to be 'softer'. When referring to sharper vs softer, I'm talking about the part of the image thats supposed to be in focus, so while f/22 will give you lots of stuff 'in focus', those bits won't be as sharp as the 'in focus' bits at f/8 or f/11. The aperture at which a lens is sharpest is known as the sweet spot and varies from lens to lens. f/8 is often where the lens is sharp, and also provides enough depth of field to have everything in focus.

Now, if you use a tripod (hint hint!) you can shoot at f/8 and ISO 100 all day long. You can use the sweet spot of the lens, use the lowest ISO for minimum noise, and avoid motion blur/camera shake

Thanks for the good explanation!
 
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