How do you manage the weight of a 70-200 2.8 is II?

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vickylou
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#41
Whilst Olympus does allow shots up to high ISO’s such as 6400, like with all cameras it depends on the quality of light. From my experience artificial light shows up weaknesses in high ISO handling so the Olly can suffer. That being said I don’t know what camera the OP has and ISO handling might not be much different.

Whilst I rate my Olly 40-150mm f2.8 I still prefer the rendering and overall look from my 70-200mm f2.8, it has much better subject isolation.
Thank you, I’m using the 80D.
 
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#42
Is that because of the sensor factor giving you the dof effect of a "slower" lens?
I think that’s a large part yes, and one of the reasons I can’t make the full switch from FF.
Thank you very much for your reply, I totally understand. I also have fibromyalgia along with my CTD it is rubbish.

A monopod for me isn’t ideal with a 2 year old, I usually take my equipment on family outings beach/parks etc.

I will try the lens with the peak design strap. I may need to go for the F4.0 version which is half the weight or the older much lighter sigma 70-200 2.8 HSM OS.
Sorry to hear about your conditions, it’s really no fun. I had the Sigma 70-200mm HSM OS and from my experience the AF was slow compared to the Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 VRII and so I’d imagine it’s slow compared to the Canon too. I didn’t find the colours as pleasing either.
Thank you, I’m using the 80D.
In that case the EM1-II is actually rated to have better high ISO noise handling. I do understand how expensive it is to swap systems though. That being said the EM1-II can be had for under £800 from places like HDEW and it’s a lot of camera for that money.
 
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#43
I think I would rent a 70-200 f2.8 and a f4 which is lighter. There is only 1stop difference between them.
 

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#44
I would actually suggest either Sony or canon RP for yourself.
You can adapt your existing canon lenses on both.
Canon RF has the excellent and small RF 70-200mm f2.8.
Sony will have a native small and light tamron 70-180mm f2.8.

I know you said you have a lot invested in your gear but end of the day health is more important than money. Save your health and learn to make do with less gear :)
 
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#45
I have the Canon 70-200 f2.8 L IS and it is very heavy and an increasing problem for my back/neck problems. I will change systems eventually to lighten the load but meanwhile I use an Opteka MCH-25 Multi Camera Harness for carrying the lens camera combination. For actually taking shots I will use a monopod or sometime a beanbag to take the weight. None of this is ideal and consequently I only take to 70-200 if I know I really need it (sport usually). The reason I have continued with this is that the lens is excellent and the f2.8 means fast focussing (important for birds in flight). I can understand why you would want to find a solution which continues to use this lens.

Dave
 
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#46
I have the Canon 70-200 f2.8 L IS and it is very heavy and an increasing problem for my back/neck problems. I will change systems eventually to lighten the load but meanwhile I use an Opteka MCH-25 Multi Camera Harness for carrying the lens camera combination. For actually taking shots I will use a monopod or sometime a beanbag to take the weight. None of this is ideal and consequently I only take to 70-200 if I know I really need it (sport usually). The reason I have continued with this is that the lens is excellent and the f2.8 means fast focussing (important for birds in flight). I can understand why you would want to find a solution which continues to use this lens.

Dave
Thank you, that’s the thing I’ve saved for so long I’m trying to find a way to make it work! F2.8-4 can make a big difference indoors between getting a workable shutter speed and not. I will look into the carrier. I definitely think I will get a peak design strap whether I get the 2.8 or not.
 
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#47
I had the 70-200 f2.8 L IS and found it too heavy, too bulky and too much of a faff. I changed to a Panasonic G9 with the 100-400 and my rate of keepers rose immediately. Your mileage will of course vary.
 
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#48
I had the 70-200 f2.8 L IS and found it too heavy, too bulky and too much of a faff. I changed to a Panasonic G9 with the 100-400 and my rate of keepers rose immediately. Your mileage will of course vary.
F6.3 is far too slow for indoors imo, but I do rate the 100-400mm.
 
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#49
Thank you, that’s the thing I’ve saved for so long I’m trying to find a way to make it work! F2.8-4 can make a big difference indoors between getting a workable shutter speed and not. I will look into the carrier. I definitely think I will get a peak design strap whether I get the 2.8 or not.
What iso do you use to get a workable shutter speed?
 
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#50
What iso do you use to get a workable shutter speed?
It depends on if my son is doing acro with balanced moves or tumble. Some gyms are better lit than others.
 
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#51
I managed it by switching to Fuji! I had got to the point where I wasn’t using my 70-200 due to the weight. I swapped my full frame Canon kit for a Fuji kit, albeit with fewer lenses.
I find now that the camera, usually fitted with a small prime lens, comes out with me all the time, especially on family trips out.

Another option would be to have two set ups, one with the monopod for dark sports halls etc, and a lighter set up, say 50mm/85mm f1.8 prime for days out.
 
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#52
It depends on if my son is doing acro with balanced moves or tumble. Some gyms are better lit than others.
I am finding this really odd, I have asked several times what settings you are using but you have never given an answer. Simple question, simple answer, give us a few typical examples of your settings, particularly iso setting you use.
 
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#53
One of the problems you may well come across using that lens if it is as heavy as the Nikon version is a question of balance. A heavy lens on a relatively light camera will make it want to point downward which doesn't help. All I can suggest is a sturdy tripod with a gimbal head. Then you not only have the support needed but also the ability to have the lens pointing as you like with no strain to yourself.

take a look at this

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJvMkeGETcg
 
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#54
Many of us have lost a fair bit of money or switched systems.

If a £20 strap system might work then give it a go.

But I think probably you may need to go down the "Christ I just lost several hundred quid" route sooner or later.

A monopod really does help take weight off if you can make it work.

I used to put the rubber feet from hospital crutches on the bottom of them to massively increase stability.
 
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#55
black rapid vs peak design straps? is there a strap that allows you to screw a monopod as well? could the monopod screw in the tripod plate on the lens?
If you use the included 70-200 lens foot to attach it to your monopod you can keep the strap attached to the camera. When I am shooting weddings or corporate events with my 70-200 VR lens, I use a black rapid strap and a monopod simultaneously all the time. For quick change over I keep the 70-200 lens foot attached to my monopod.
 
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#57
I am finding this really odd, I have asked several times what settings you are using but you have never given an answer. Simple question, simple answer, give us a few typical examples of your settings, particularly iso setting you use.
I apologise if you find this odd, I did not mean to offend you. Ok my telephoto zoom is the Tamron 70-300 VC, you loose F4 very quickly after 70mm for example in a low light gym at 70mm f4 iso 2500 i am only getting about 1/80, bearing in mind how heavy the 70-20 IS II lens is for me this is not a workable shutter speed for indoor sport. At 4000 about 1/125 at 6400 about 1/250 at 8000 1/320. I don't want to be shooting more than 6400. Some gyms have better light e.g. if they are part of a sports centre and the room used for other sports. No flash photography is allowed to freeze motion.
 
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#58
Thank you, I will look into this.
 
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#59
Vicky by the look of it your going to end up spending loads on gizmos which may or may not help you due to your dis.abilities ... I have posted my option which you seem to have discounted . But rest assured the only real answer is as someone else stated above bite the bullet the only sensible option is to switch to a more pup to date system that is lighter and faster .
yesterday I was out shooting owls with my present set up using a 800mm equv. Lens at one point I ended up actually shooting one handed due to having to shade my Eyes from the sun ,there is no magic potion that’s going to Help .the answer is to go mirrorless and lighten your load
 
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#60
Vicky by the look of it your going to end up spending loads on gizmos which may or may not help you due to your dis.abilities ... I have posted my option which you seem to have discounted . But rest assured the only real answer is as someone else stated above bite the bullet the only sensible option is to switch to a more pup to date system that is lighter and faster .
yesterday I was out shooting owls with my present set up using a 800mm equv. Lens at one point I ended up actually shooting one handed due to having to shade my Eyes from the sun ,there is no magic potion that’s going to Help .the answer is to go mirrorless and lighten your load
Thank you, I haven’t discounted this option it’s something I will think long and hard about. At the moment my system is ok for the weight of my current lenses as none are heavy but I was just hoping for a fast telephoto option with my current set up.
 
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#61
I apologise if you find this odd, I did not mean to offend you. Ok my telephoto zoom is the Tamron 70-300 VC, you loose F4 very quickly after 70mm for example in a low light gym at 70mm f4 iso 2500 i am only getting about 1/80, bearing in mind how heavy the 70-20 IS II lens is for me this is not a workable shutter speed for indoor sport. At 4000 about 1/125 at 6400 about 1/250 at 8000 1/320. I don't want to be shooting more than 6400. Some gyms have better light e.g. if they are part of a sports centre and the room used for other sports. No flash photography is allowed to freeze motion.
Tbh for gymnastics I’d have thought you’d have needed to be up around 1/1000 shutter speed to freeze the action, unless you’re only taking ‘posed’ photos? An f2.8 lens may allow 1/1000 with 6400 iso, although high iso isn’t a strong part of the 80D.

I’ve read all the responses and understand that you don’t want to swap gear, and I know you’ve been saving up for the 70-200mm f2.8 for some time (5 years was it?) but you basically only have a few options.

1. Your preferred option of keeping your gear and buying the 70-200mm f2.8 but then you’re just going to have to put up with the weight and the pain that comes with it.

2. But the lighter 70-200mm f4 and put up with more noise in your image.

3. Stick with what you have and put up with even more noise.

4. Bite the bullet and get a lighter system. With what you’ve saved for the 70-200mm f2.8 and what you can sell your gear for you may be able to afford the Olympus EM1-II and 40-150mm (80-300mm eq) from ‘reputable’ grey stores such as HDEW.

I understand 1 is the option you have your heart set on and 4 is your least preferred option but I’d really urge you to think long term and whether you think you’d be able to carry the 70-200 f2.8 around for long periods, even on a sling strap.

I don’t know if you’re aware but Olympus do a test and wow where you can try their equipment for free for a few days so you could try out the EM1-II and 40-150mm f2.8 to see how you get on. Olympus will feel very alien to start with but once set up to your preferences it really is a great camera.
 
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#62
There’s good advice here. Something else to consider is the 70-200 2.8 might not solve all the problems in low light gyms anyway. 135 f2 might be an option? Much less weight and more light.
 
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#63
Haven’t read all of the posts but have you considered a Lowepro Toploader bag with the chest harness which might distribute the weight better and gives you easy access to your equipment....I use one with a lightweight Gitzo monopod tucked in the side pocket For when the camera is going to be out of the Toploader for longer periods.....
 
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#64
Vicky, one thing I try to keep in mind is how a final picture will be looked at. If it's mostly going to be looked at on phones, tablets and screens as a whole picture then even quite a bit of noise may not affect the picture too much. Artificial lights can be a real killer though and I've had ISO 1600 pictures that have looked terrible to me but more normal people very often don't see the problems that us perfection seeking photography obsessed geeks see.

So, my little bit of advice is to step back a bit from being a photographer and looking too closely, if that's what you do, and instead look at the final picture after processing and at the size it's going to be looked at and ask yourself if you and the other people who'll look at it will think it's good enough.

If you're not happy with the results then unfortunately I'm going to be another one who suggests you take a look at micro four thirds. Even if the results aren't as good as you'd like (but I think they may be a little better) at least you're load might be a little more manageable.
 
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#65
Thank you I will have a look at this bag
 
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#67
Thank you all so much for your help! I bit the bullet and used my 5 years of saving and treated myself to a used 70-200 2.8L IS II. Yes it is a beast! I purchased the peak design slide which is a great strap and a carbon fibre monopod. Agreed I am not going to be walking around all day with it on my shoulder but the AF speed/accuracy indoors is amazing!
 
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