duttytd
Mummy, where do babies come from?
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Thedodo said:Which blowing it up or re-building it
Just a pic of parts to create something crazy lol
Thedodo said:Which blowing it up or re-building it
Thedodo said:I may bring it along to the meet if ive not fixed it, sure we can find a shot to incorporate it into
CraigAHodge said:21
Get I.D'd for everything... haha
Anyhow back on the matter at hand.
Is it worth me getting an Omni Bounce diffuser, because I'm not really sure the Jessops one is much good :/
Doesn't help that this particular local venue is all matt black, so no chance of bouncing the flash!
My camera your lens! This is what happens when canon meets nikon!!!
Thedodo said:
Its a little wide. Unless you can get right up to the stage.
Its not really a lens i would think about using unless i know i could get to the front for a nice wide shot of the whole stage without any of the crowd in.
chuck said:Well not even stage too much more of party go-ers and things it'd be nice to have a lens that would facilitate both stage and most close up 'group' shots.
Or are there better alternatives you would suggest? It's just I don't think I'd do it all that often, so I would like a lens that's allows me to use it outside of these types of circumstances as well.
arwesa said:what iso were you using?
what I dont get is if you shot these with a 50mm at f2, youre focused on someone close to you judging by the pictures, yet theres not a lot of bokeh (i.e. deep DoF)? or are these crops?
I shot some good (for me and my first try at a concert) sharp shots using a long zoom at about F5.6 and no flash. http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=366658, I know theyre perhaps different from what youre looking for, but if I can get those in the situation I was in with no flash then you must be able to get what you want from the 50mm, unless theres something we're missing, e.g. your technique? was camera moving? (perhaps try a lens with good IS?) maybe focus on perfecting getting the images you want crystal sharp without the movement first then add in the movement so at least you know what youre building on? :shrug:
Some cracking shots there.
arwesa said:thanks...I didnt get much feedback at the time
Don't worry I post up loads and get pish all back lol. I keep reminding myself I take photos for myself not for other Haha
what iso were you using?
what I dont get is if you shot these with a 50mm at f2, youre focused on someone close to you judging by the pictures, yet theres not a lot of bokeh (i.e. deep DoF)? or are these crops? if theyve had to be heavily cropped because you cant get close then perhaps part of your problem is that?
I shot some good (for me and my first try at a concert) sharp shots using a long zoom (70-300 EF) at about F5.6 and no flash. http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=366658, I know theyre perhaps different from what youre looking for, but if I can get those in the situation I was in with no flash then you must be able to get what you want from the 50mm, unless theres something we're missing, e.g. your technique? was camera moving? (perhaps try a lens with good IS?) maybe focus on perfecting getting the images you want crystal sharp without the movement first then add in the movement so at least you know what youre building on? :shrug:
17-50 f2.8 is where you want to be on a crop sensor for smaller club music photography. Second hand would be in the region of £200.
24-105 is f3 and too slow for music photography. Not sure what you are looking to do longer term, but music photography and flash is a major no-no.
with 50 1.8 you should get a reasonable shutter speed at 1600-3200 iso. which would give you a better shot. Flash with trails is a one trick pony really, it has a feel and a use, but this is more for club photography than music photography. Also note any major band and quite a lot of small unsigned bands hate flash at shows!
There is a guide here http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=165114
Well worth a read.
My stuff is on my website if you want to have a look
Craig....
I photgraph a local band... I mainly use my 50mm f/1.8....
I tried using the 18-55 kit lens and it wasnt up to scratch...
You can follow :: www.facebook.com/venomandapathy to see the photos.
I much prefer the 50mm and the venues are normally big enough to step back and get a band photo as opposed to portraits...
I would suggest the best lens for the job (small venue, up close) would be the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. Nice and fast and nice and wide on a crop sensor.
Roughly £200 second hand. Flog the kit lens, you don't need that.
Just had a look on the facebook page and It's not clear which photos you have taken. Also I found that alot of them are out of focus and not very clear.
I got some really good results using the Kit lens and whith the venue being really small and me being at the front 50mm is far too close and would only allow me to get face shots.
I do a bit of gig stuff and for me there are some basic rules that I work by.
Flash is a big NO NO. There is nothing more off putting for performers than someone poking a camera in their face and then flashing.
Flash also gives a bigger depth of field, which your photos suffer from, too much in focus, having a drummer lost in a blur behind a singer or guitarist makes for a far more pleasing shot and the viewers eye is drawn to the subject
Flash also has a tendency to freeze the action around the guitarists hands or the drummers hands, which give an awful sense of the shot being staged, where as a slower shutter speed will usually be enough to let the hands blur while keeping the face in focus giving a real sense of movement and action.
I recently witnessed a young guy at a local venue treat a bands set like his own personal photo shoot completely ignoring the crowd behind him and using wide angle to get 'artistic' shots down the neck of the guitar.
I thought any minute now either the band or the crowd are going to kick 7 bells out of him and to be honest I was almost ready to punch him myself for giving photographers a bad name.
So basically follow some simple guidelines and you'll be fine.
NO Flash... remember many performers, especially in local bands are ******** themselves with nerves about performing, the last thing they need is added pressure from someone sticking a camera in their face.
Do not stand in front of the band contemplating shots or fiddling with your camera settings ready for the next shot, remember, they are playing to people who are paying, the crowd behind you, in most cases have paid to see the band NOT YOU. So be discreet. Take your shot and step to the side. review it and adjust the camera accordingly and then line up the next shot.
Personally I only use fast prime lenses, 35mm F2 or 50mm F1.8
50mm F1.8 in Canon or Nikon is such a brilliant value lens but on a 3/4 plate body it equates to almost 80mm in real terms and this can be a problem in small venues, which is why I added the 35mm F2 to the kit bag.
These fast lenses allow you to be creative, I started out years ago shooting on 400ASA film, 30th of a second, F1.8 so I was always looking for pools of light, anything that would make for an interesting highlight on someones face, hair of instrument.
ISO cranked up to 1600 but thats because I like a grainy, shot on film look. But it allows you to get a reasonable amount of light in which to work, if its a really well lit venue then step down to 800 if you like the shot a little 'smoother'
Autofocus I have fixed to the centre point so there is no confusion over what I am focusing on, doesnt always work as people are moving all the time.
The lenses are also small and very light, which means your camera is easy to work with, especially if you are seeing three bands in a night and shooting them all, you get less camera shake especially towards the end of the night as you havent had to hold a weight in it for the last 2 hours, it also makes your camera look small in yours hands, remember most DSLR's are a good few hundred quid add to that lenses and all of a sudden you could find someone wants to take it off you lets face it people get stabbed for mobile phones worth less, so always travel light, especially to venues you dont know.
Also carrying a big rig of gear makes you look professional and that can cause issues, some venues have an open door policy and dont mind what you do, some are more choosy about the kinds of photography they allow, camera phone and point and press is fine, but any hint of professionalism can be an issue. So try and keep everything on the down low until you've sussed out the lie of the land. I often give venue owners and promoter free prints as a sweetner.
I was at a gig the other day and a bloke rolled in with a full on camera bag and tripod... clearly never been to a gig before, let alone shot one.
When I finally go red band its 35mm F1.4mm for me but its £1000 so need to sell some prints before that particular upgrade.
Oh and if there is another photographer there, then be courteous if there is plenty of room to move around then dont hog one spot all night, try and keep out of their way and hopefully they will return the courtesy and you may get a chance in a spot they were in.
I do take your point and I see all sorts of band from death metal through to indie and accoustic.
These shots were taken in a very poorly lit bar using a 50mm F1.8 , but with a flash none of the movement of this punk/pop band would have been captured, and I think the energy in their performance comes across in the images.
Must be his 'Drum Face'
At work (nightclubs/events) my settings are a mixture of
f 2 - 9
ISO 400 - 800
SS 1" to 1/60 (depending on the amount of light trails I want)
Flash -1/4 to -1/2 power 1st curtain
then mess around with whtie balance etc.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.295832263858184.67931.247324062042338&type=3 my kind of results