How do you use yours?

JohnN

JohnN

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John
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Hi,

I've been taking pics for a while now and no matter how many times I read "use the histogram" it never seems right out there in the real world.

The way I usually end up taking images is when out with the family on a walk about, so thats me, the Mrs and two kids (18 months and four years) and sometimes a dog, so as you can imagine I'm never in one place long, as I'm moving so is the light etc etc...

Am I right in thinking that those who say use the histogram are pros, often sat for long periods waiting for something with the camera on a tripod (I handhold 95% of the time) or am I over simplifying?
 
I tend to have highlight warning on so I can check for blown areas but I don't use the histogram for grabbed shots.
 
philthejuggler said:
I tend to have highlight warning on so I can check for blown areas but I don't use the histogram for grabbed shots.
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^^^ me too. If you're shooting Raw and post processing, the highlight warning is better than the histogram and far easier to read on the hoof. I like to use Expose To The Right technique so usually wanting to see the blinkies flashing on some very bright highlights (though not always, ETTR is a separate subject really).

Don't try to interrogate the histogram in too much detail. You just need to ensure that highlights, mid tones and shadows are in roughly the right place. Look at the subject, pick out a large area of tone, as that will produce to a big bump on the histogram so easy to see, and check if it corresponds with the histogram.

If there's a large area of mid-tone, as there often is, then that would be a big bumnp in the middle. If the subject is predominently dark tones, then the bump will be to the left, and if it's mainly bright, like a sandy beach shot perhaps, then the histogram should be loaded to the right.
 
For me, same as what Phil said. I'm certainly not a 'pro' - either in the money-making sense or in the 'style/competency' sense ;) It'll often take me a few shots before I'm happy with the exposure. As I'm always adjusting the brightness of my camera screen according to the ambient light, I get bad results if i rely on it without blinkies to gauge exposure.
 
Thanks all - I have that set and do get the odd flasher (so to speak!), so I would want to compensate for that.

One more question (for now) then, given that on the 1D III I can actually fairly reliably use off centre focus points would you switch to spot metering?

BTW I just spotted multi-spot metering - must try that at some point.
 
JohnN said:
Thanks all - I have that set and do get the odd flasher (so to speak!), so I would want to compensate for that.

One more question (for now) then, given that on the 1D III I can actually fairly reliably use off centre focus points would you switch to spot metering?

BTW I just spotted multi-spot metering - must try that at some point.
Click to expand...

I use evaluative/matrix 99% of the time. Is that what you mean by multi-spot, as that's what it is, combined with its own smart thinking. Always gets close, then tweak as necessary.

Only use spot if you really know what you're doing, and preferably in manual.
 
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I tend to use evaluative unless there is something or a part of the subject that I specifically want to get the exposure on - for example a subject where there is a lot of shadow or shine on it. I sometimes use the exposure lock button as well as the focus lock button - but that is not much cop for moving subjects and changing conditions.
 
I often get the odd little flasher on my screen, if it's on a part of the picture that's supposed to be pure white I don't worry, but if it blinks on any other colour I alter the exposure and retake it.
I've got my 60D set up so when I view the photo on the screen it comes up with the histogram first and most of the time it rises to the right so I must be doing something about right.
 
I don't see why getting properly exposed images should be reserved for professionals - and if you've bought an SLR over a P&S you obviously care about your photos so why wouldn't you want to use everything it offers to make getting them exposed properly easier for yourself?
It's easier/quicker to glance at the histogram and see the exposure mapped out in black and white than it is to try and judge it from the image on the screen, especially if it's bright outside which makes the screen hard to see let alone judge exposure from. You can immediately see if you've under/over exposed, whether you're clipping the shadows or highlights and how much room you've got before you do start clipping the shadows or highlights.

I can't see a link between the histogram and sitting still with a tripod either. If anything it's least useful in those circumstances because your scene is the same the whole time whereas when you're moving around and composing different scenes you'll probably want to tweak the exposure so you don't clip/wrongly expose important parts of the scene.
You might have more time to click up and down a third of a stop to absolutely perfect the optimal exposure when you're sat with a tripod but the histogram is still useful for getting in the right ball park.

Obviously if it's a snapshot of a family day out it doesn't matter as much but when you're taking photos for the sake of taking photos I would have thought trying to get it right is half of the point of it.
 
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