How much room?

seaodyssey

seaodyssey

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Pete
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I'm thinking of doing some Tabletop type photography soon and I'm wondering how much room is required for lighting stands, tripods, softboxes around the table( say its 2ft square ) to make setting up comtable. I'm thinking of using a standard size garage. Is that enough room.

Any pointers and advise would be welcomed.

Pete
 
Hi Pete

Guessing most will answer that the more space you have the better.
If a garage is biggest you have. Then that's fine. You will be able to create some great images I'm sure. Yes you will trip over things on a regular basis ( unless that's just me ) but you can make it work.
My place to take photos is about 10ftx15ft at most I use about 3 quarters of that area.

Hope that helps

Gaz
 
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Little tabletop type items can require surprisingly large modifiers which require a good amount of space, but I would think a standard garage is enough room... I've done a lot in an 10x10 space. One of the best things you can get is probably a proper counterweighted boom stand that can support a large softbox (~120cm).
 
You'll be able to operate in a garage sized room, but height can be a problem. I've had this myself (my ceilings are low), but I got round it by working at coffee table height rather than normal table height. If photographing people, I sit them on a low stool instead of a standard height one.
 
Hi Pete - as Steven said - it's surprising just how big the grip forest and light surfaces can get to light and photograph a small item - especially shiny and round ones. I shoot in a 3.8m by 4.5m (5.5 if I shoot from the small balcony if it's not raining) space. The ceiling is 2.1m. About the same size as a garage - and with the shelving, about as wide. It does work, but it does present some difficulties. On many occasions I've had to completely rethink the whole setup to add one more element. Things like having enough room for the counterweight end of a boom arm, and having enough space for the light to fall off into, and generally getting distance between lights, diffusion panels, objects, background and camera are things that impact you in a small space. Paint it black/dark grey (or use black cloth to cover the walls and floor), invest in grids for all of your reflector dishes and softboxes, and lot of black card or foam-core board to block and absorb stray light.. Like Trevor - I often end up with a less than ideal working height for the table - as I need to fit more in above the subject.

Also useful, especially if you work alone as I do, is to shoot tethered and use a remote trigger. This way you don't have to move back and forth from the camera position to the light or other element you're busy adjusting, which is always a very deliberate and considered thing in a small space. When the position of something is really critical, I find using live-view on the big screen is invaluable - using the modelling lights I can move and focus lights and see the camera's view as I do it. A foot, or mouth operated trigger (radio trigger in a plastic bag with padding) or voice control is also if you have both hands full (I use Control my Nikon for the voice control, which allows me hold a light and maybe a reflector too to try out a position before putting stands in place. I just say "shoot" to take the picture). All of this means less moving about with all the potential for knocking into things in a small crowded space.



Here's some examples of the sort of setups I build in the space:-
DSC_0378-Website.jpgDSC_0370-Website.jpgDSC_0368-Website.jpg




IMG_5438.jpgIMG_5439.jpg


IMG_5354.jpgIMG_6682.jpg

IMG_6812.jpg


Remember to leave room for you to get out of the room :p
 
Owen has said pretty much everything that I was going to say. All that I can add is having the walls and ceiling painted black (or at least dark grey) really does make a massive distance to your ability to control the light - Owen has suggested that you do that, I would have put it in bold capitals:).

Also, small spaces work best with small subjects, so if you're too ambitious and take on subjects that are too large for the space you'll end up losing quality, but if you stick to suitable subjects you'll be fine.
 
Scooter said:
Hi Pete - as Steven said - it's surprising just how big the grip forest and light surfaces can get to light and photograph a small item - especially shiny and round ones. I shoot in a 3.8m by 4.5m (5.5 if I shoot from the small balcony if it's not raining) space. The ceiling is 2.1m. About the same size as a garage - and with the shelving, about as wide. It does work, but it does present some difficulties. On many occasions I've had to completely rethink the whole setup to add one more element. Things like having enough room for the counterweight end of a boom arm, and having enough space for the light to fall off into, and generally getting distance between lights, diffusion panels, objects, background and camera are things that impact you in a small space. Paint it black/dark grey (or use black cloth to cover the walls and floor), invest in grids for all of your reflector dishes and softboxes, and lot of black card or foam-core board to block and absorb stray light.. Like Trevor - I often end up with a less than ideal working height for the table - as I need to fit more in above the subject.

Also useful, especially if you work alone as I do, is to shoot tethered and use a remote trigger. This way you don't have to move back and forth from the camera position to the light or other element you're busy adjusting, which is always a very deliberate and considered thing in a small space. When the position of something is really critical, I find using live-view on the big screen is invaluable - using the modelling lights I can move and focus lights and see the camera's view as I do it. A foot, or mouth operated trigger (radio trigger in a plastic bag with padding) or voice control is also if you have both hands full (I use Control my Nikon for the voice control, which allows me hold a light and maybe a reflector too to try out a position before putting stands in place. I just say "shoot" to take the picture). All of this means less moving about with all the potential for knocking into things in a small crowded space.



Here's some examples of the sort of setups I build in the space:-
View attachment 290269View attachment 290270View attachment 290271




View attachment 290272View attachment 290273


View attachment 290274View attachment 290275

View attachment 290276


Remember to leave room for you to get out of the room :p
Click to expand...
Hi Scooter, Those Pictures are really useful.

Thanks Pete

Thanks
 
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