How to photograph a watercolour painting

Brentor

Brentor

Messages
1,729
Name
Steve
Edit My Images
No
My daughter was given a watercolour painting this week from an artist who attended a regency ball my daughter was hosting.

The artist has asked for a good photograph of the painting in order to make prints. My daughter volunteered me to provide the photo. Thanks.

This is completely outside my comfort zone.

Google searches are helpful, the main message being to avoid flash and to light from each side.

The painting is approx 60x50 cm.

I have some small softboxes but no lights other than flashlights. Some suggest taking the photo outside to avoid the need for lights. I don’t mind buying budget lights if necessary.

Any help would be appreciated, including the best lens.
 
You can use flash and the softboxes will help, large window can work well too with a bounce reflector.

Camera needs to be square to the print and the softboxes need to be angled evenly from each side at around 45 degrees, close as possible without being in frame, this will give the softest light.

If you get reflections, the lights aren't soft enough (big enough) or their angled too tight to the camera.
 
Last edited:
If they are going to be making prints from your image, are you going to be using colour calibration to reproduce the painting during the process.
 
Last edited:
Brentor said:
Google searches are helpful, the main message being to avoid flash
Click to expand...
Very unhelpful advice, flash is the best option by far. The answer you got may have meant to say "Avoid direct flash, i.e. a flash fitted to a camera".
Continuous lighting will also do, but is very unlikely to reproduce all colours accurately, especially the warmer ones, reds, yellows and similar.
Brentor said:
and to light from each side.
Click to expand...
Correct. Most people find it easier to fix the artwork to a wall, easier to arrange the camera and lights that way than to put it on the floor and try to get square to it. Put a light each side, at an angle of ideally 45 degrees, straight not tilted in any way. Flashguns are usable, studio flash would be easier, make sure that each light is the same distance and at the same power setting.
As you only have small softboxes {which must be used) don't have them too close, or the light may not spread out enough. Getting them really close would produce softer light, but it doesn't seem to be practical if your softboxes are smaller than the subject, and soft light isn't necessarily ideal anyway, slightly harder light from further away will show the texture better.
Gav. said:
large window can work well too with a bounce reflector.
Click to expand...
In theory yes, in practice it's very difficult to control natural light, and even more difficult to get the angle right.
Gav. said:
As for lens aim for a focal length of around 85-100 if you can, and avoid wide lenses.
Click to expand...
That's very good advice

One more bit of advice - experiment, small changes of angle etc can make big differences
 
Garry Edwards said:
Very unhelpful advice, flash is the best option by far. The answer you got may have meant to say "Avoid direct flash, i.e. a flash fitted to a camera".
Continuous lighting will also do, but is very unlikely to reproduce all colours accurately, especially the warmer ones, reds, yellows and similar.

Correct. Most people find it easier to fix the artwork to a wall, easier to arrange the camera and lights that way than to put it on the floor and try to get square to it. Put a light each side, at an angle of ideally 45 degrees, straight not tilted in any way. Flashguns are usable, studio flash would be easier, make sure that each light is the same distance and at the same power setting.
As you only have small softboxes {which must be used) don't have them too close, or the light may not spread out enough. Getting them really close would produce softer light, but it doesn't seem to be practical if your softboxes are smaller than the subject, and soft light isn't necessarily ideal anyway, slightly harder light from further away will show the texture better.

In theory yes, in practice it's very difficult to control natural light, and even more difficult to get the angle right.

That's very good advice

One more bit of advice - experiment, small changes of angle etc can make big differences
Click to expand...
Very helpful as always.

Perhaps this is a good way to learn more about flash, a topic that I find intimidating.

The Google videos were not specific about on or off camera flash, they were all by the painters rather than photographers and all pointed to continuous LED lighting.

My soft boxes are larger than the painting. What is considered to be a large softbox?

If I’m brave I may even post the results. Even if they are garbage I should be able to learn from the feedback.
 
Brentor said:
My soft boxes are larger than the painting. What is considered to be a large softbox?

If I’m brave I may even post the results. Even if they are garbage I should be able to learn from the feedback.
Click to expand...
In that case, they're large enough. In this context, "large" means at least as large as the subject.

Yes, please post your results, WITH NO POST PROCESSING CARRIED OUT. That's how we learn.
 
Brentor said:
they were all by the painters rather than photographers and all pointed to continuous LED lighting.
Click to expand...

LED/constant lighting is cheap - unless you head down the path of proper (not consumer) Arri's Red et al.

Hence why artists are pointing at it. I'll let you work out the rest but the phrase 'good enough' will almost certainly (incorrectly) be applied.

My soft boxes are larger than the painting. What is considered to be a large softbox?
Click to expand...

One that's larger than its subject...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top