Beginner How to reduce noise for Milky way shots?

jpgreenwood

jpgreenwood

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jason
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I've been quite successful in taking milky way shots in the past but would like to improve my technique.
I have a Nikon D7200 and Tokina 11-16.. F2.8 for the job.
I understand that to keep the stars from dragging I need to keep below 20 seconds.
I would really like to reduce noise as on my last attempt, ISO was up to 3200.
Is there a technique to reduce noise before I get to LR noise reduction sliders?
Please see my previous attempts and any C&C is more than welcome.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/151268867@N06/albums/72157674437957058/with/44314186095/
 
Just a shot in the dark (see what I did there :) ) because I have not tried but the serious astro people use software like Registax to stack multiple images. You can also take dark shots (i.e. lens cap on) and the software will remove the noise in those frames from the noise in the "light" shots.
 
I wrote a whole blog post about this a while ago (similar equipment to yours) Link is here if you want to read it. I cover all the types of shots you need for stacking as well as the software you can use for it
 
Phil Maddocks said:
I wrote a whole blog post about this a while ago (similar equipment to yours) Link is here if you want to read it. I cover all the types of shots you need for stacking as well as the software you can use for it
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That is one of the most helpful blogs ive ever read. Many thanks. I will certainly use your method. Can I just ask, do you need to replace the lens cap for the dark shots or will a piece of black card placed over the lens do the trick? Ive heard of this method used when photographing fireworks. Trying to eliminate any camera movement.
 
jpgreenwood said:
That is one of the most helpful blogs ive ever read. Many thanks. I will certainly use your method. Can I just ask, do you need to replace the lens cap for the dark shots or will a piece of black card placed over the lens do the trick? Ive heard of this method used when photographing fireworks. Trying to eliminate any camera movement.
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As long as your are stopping any light entering the lens when doing the dark frames, sticking something over the lens would work. Ideally though you'd use the lens cap. If you have lost yours you can generally buy generic replacements based on the filter thread size. (Yours is 77mm for your Tokina lens - I've used it before on my D3400, great lens for Astro).
 
Yeah I'm ok for lens caps. I just don't want to risk moving the camera, so placing black card over the front might do the same job, without disturbing things.
 
Oh, you are ok for moving the camera, don't worry about that at all! Once you have gotten your light shots of the Milky Way (or just stars), you can pop your lens cap back on and then fire away with the same settings for your dark frames. The reason you are doing the dark frames is to create the natural noise pattern of your camera so the software can take it away from your light images thus reducing noise. You don't have to keep your camera still for those.
 
jpgreenwood said:
Yeah I'm ok for lens caps. I just don't want to risk moving the camera, so placing black card over the front might do the same job, without disturbing things.
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter. I normally take the camera off the mount, put the lens/body cap on and set it to fire off its dark frames while I'm packing up. You don't need the same number as the light frames as you combine them into a master dark. The important thing it to take them at the same exposure length as the light frames and at the same temperature, so you can't do them in the house when you get home if you forget about them.............
 
Phil Maddocks said:
I wrote a whole blog post about this a while ago (similar equipment to yours) Link is here if you want to read it. I cover all the types of shots you need for stacking as well as the software you can use for it
Click to expand...
I have followed your link Phil, and have to agree with JP it's a most helpful blog with clear easy to understand instructions. But and there's always a but, where is the third part please I'd love to see it completed or is it just me missing something (again ).
 
Big Andy said:
I have followed your link Phil, and have to agree with JP it's a most helpful blog with clear easy to understand instructions. But and there's always a but, where is the third part please I'd love to see it completed or is it just me missing something (again ).
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thank you for the kind words. It’s something I’ve been meaning to write for a while but haven’t gotten around to. I will make it my next one to publish
 
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