I just can't get the hang of macro.

Messages
2,748
Name
Stuart
Edit My Images
Yes
Since the birds are in hiding thought I'd give macro another go. I am not convinced it is for me, I just can't seem to get something I am entirely happy with, this is the best I got today, I realise I should increase DOF much more.

Some of the shots on this thread are just phenomenal.

IMG_9336s.jpg


IMG_9336sc.jpg
 
There is absolutely nothing wrong in the slightest with that shot. Even the crop is excellent.

Seriously, an excellent image. Remember Macro has seriously shallow DoF anyway so the best way to increase this (as you would probably know), is to either reduce magnification or reduce aperture. F8 in this case is perfectly fine. F11 would have given you a touch more DoF giving a bit more of the fly in focus but you've got the most important part absolutely pin sharp and that's the compound eyes.

If you wanted even greater DoF than what F11 could have given you then you need to look at focus stacking but that's not the easiest of tasks.

If you wish to have advice on improvement, I'd look to pull back the highlights a touch either in Lightroom or Photoshop (or whatever photo manipulation software you have). It's hard to control the highlights on the lighter parts of a flies face but this can be recovered in post processing.
 
You already realise that DOF is more or less non existant when shooting macro. Both of the shots here are quite good. The second photo looks to be a cropof the first and is very sharp with good colors and contrast seems to be fine as well.
Ian got in just befor me and is spot on with his comments. But just to add, when one increases apature one reduces light entering the sensor. So some form of external lighting would be required.
 
Last edited:
good advice from Ian :)
 
Well noticed Allan :).

yes indeed, extra lighting would be needed. I see you shot at 1/60th, ISO400.

1/60th is ok but there's big risk of camera shake/motion blur (even with flash). ISO400 looks to be fine as far as noise is concerned on your 7D (I know on my 400D it royally screws a macro image)

I strongly recommend moderate to heavily diffused ext. flash. I shoot mostly at 1/200th, ISO 100 @ F/11 with flash diffused and the output decreased/increased as necessary dependant on ambient light, magnficication etc. (although I've recently been using 1/160th and sometimes ISO200 with reduced flash output to lessen light fall off.
 
Good advice here, especially if your main interest is ultra close-up type of macro work. The thought struck me though that there are some other avenues that you might (or might not) be interested in exploring.

The world of the very small is fascinating, for example seeing the normally invisible details of a fly's eye, or a spider's many eyes and strange mouthparts. Generally speaking however the greater the magnification, the more difficult things can be to get right - dealing with the very thin DOF, getting the centre of DOF placed just where you need it to be, the effects of camera shake, the effects of subject movement, the difficulty of getting enough light onto the scene and, when using flash, delivering the light in such a way to avoid hot spots (e.g. diffusing the flash, which is a bit of an art form in its own right).

It is easier to deal with less magnification, for example taking pictures of whole insects, spiders, snails etc, and personally I find there is plenty to explore at that scale and plenty of opportunities to make pictures which are by turns fascinating, odd, beautiful, instructive etc. You may also find you have more latitude to use smaller apertures, higher ISOs and slower shutter speeds. I have been using a bridge camera until recently, but I have recently started using a Panasonic G3, which is closer to what you are using. With the G3 I am routinely using f/22 for most macros, I often use ISO 800 or ISO 1600, and often use slow shutter speeds. For example, this image used ISO 800, f/22 and 1/20 second (it is not an isolated example btw).

Even if you want to concentrate on higher magnifications, you may find working with lower magnifications gives you a good entry point and platform to work up (down?) from. And who knows, perhaps you might find some of the lower magnification stuff interesting/involving in its own right.
 
well put Nick :clap:

The key to Macro in my humble opinion is practise and then practise some more- you'll get there in the end and I quite like the cropped version of your shot SLRUser (y)

Les ;)
 
I do like that image you linked to Nick.

In line with what Nick has said, it is certainly important to capture macro shots of bugs in a more environmental shot. That is, pull away and get them in their environment such as in Nicks shot.

I think every macrotographer can agree that we ALL attempt to magnify the face of bugs so they fill the entire frame :D, but I agree that practicing focus and composition with reduced mag is a great way to start.

Also, as bugs aren't always compliant in their positioning, if you can't get a composition that you want, get a good quality sharp well focused shot and crop to a better composition. We all do it when necessary. :)

Many macro shots will require a touch of sharpening and noise reduction too. That can be looked into later :)
 
well put Nick

Thanks Les.

The key to Macro in my humble opinion is practise and then practise some more

Absolutely. When I started (with a Raynox 250 on a Canon S3) I was really upset to begin with. For a day or three I couldn't get anything even remotely in focus, and shots like SLRuser's images here seemed like a distant dream.

And since then, lots and lots of practice, along with some really helpful feedback, advice and encouragement from others, and then back for more practice. I doubt you can ever finally "get there" - there is always more to learn.

So SLRuser, you are doing well. I look forward to seeing more of your macro images.
 
Thanks for all the tips everyone.

I will keep at it and hopefully see some improvements.
 
Like most things, practice makes perfect. I have many many macro images but very few I would call truly excellent.

This chap gives me all the inspiration I need. He uses fairly basic equipment but gets stunning results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqRn3at0H60
 
as you got a 7d and a Canon macro with USM did you know you can put the focus into AI servo and as long as you are 1:2 or 1:1 it will keep your focus on if you hand hold or the wind is moving your subject. A little know fact I just learnt.

The only problem with trying to use AF on macro is that the lens may spend more of its time hunting for focus than being in focus!

The easiest way for macro shots (although it takes some mastering) is the old method of getting the focus roughly right and then moving backwards and forwards to get it sharp.

This is made quite a lot easier if you have a lens with IS.

.
 
The only problem with trying to use AF on macro is that the lens may spend more of its time hunting for focus than being in focus!

The easiest way for macro shots (although it takes some mastering) is the old method of getting the focus roughly right and then moving backwards and forwards to get it sharp.

This is made quite a lot easier if you have a lens with IS.

.

Not with the 7D and a usm macro it work 100% in AI servo
 
The easiest way for macro shots (although it takes some mastering) is the old method of getting the focus roughly right and then moving backwards and forwards to get it sharp.

Different strokes for different folks I think (and it may depend on what camera you use). While there are many people who use the back and forth method of focusing, there are some who use autofocus. I am one, and more convincing is Mark Berkery, who explains his approach to focusing about half way down this quite long page.

I suggest that anyone who hasn't tried one or other of these methods should try it and see how they get on with it.
 
Great pics there mate .. I have learned to do the back and forth approach and with help from great people on here have learned a lot which has helped my macro shots no end
 
nothing wrong with that, just take on board some of the advice that has been mentioned and it will all fall into place.

Gaz
 
Back
Top