I know the hyperfocal distance. How do I set my camera to focus at it?

dubcat

dubcat

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Amir
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Hi

I have been reading about hyperfocal distances. So it seems that for maximum depth of field (when taking Landscapes for example) I should focus my camera exactly at the hyperfocal distance. If I focus a before or after it I won't get that big depth of field right?

My question is, how are you landscape togs actually setting your focus to the hyperfocal distance?

e.g. at 12mm f/16 my hyperfocal distance is 1.4m. How do i focus my camera to exactly 1.4m!? They distance scale on the lens is not granular enough to let me find 1.4m.

Cheers,
Dub
 
dubcat said:
e.g. at 12mm f/16 my hyperfocal distance is 1.4m. How do i focus my camera to exactly 1.4m!? They distance scale on the lens is not granular enough to let me find 1.4m.
Click to expand...

Do you need the full DoF from 0.6m to infinity? Wouldn't 0.8M to infinity do just as well? With such a narrow aperture and short focal length I'd be surprised if you saw any real difference in shots where the focus was 1.4, 1.8 or 5m.

Guess.
 
I'm still learning but I just focus a third of the way into the image, switch to manual focus, recompose and shoot, usually at f/11 - f/16.
 
With a manual camera with manual lenses with a DoF scale inscribed on it...like in ye olde days of filme...

Like on this 85mm Nikkor lens... each coloured line corresponds to the approximate DoF at each aperture setting, but placing the infinity marker at the white (centre) mark, everything from about 15m to infinity is in focus at f/16.
By placing it at the Orange line (aperture set at f/16), then everything from about 8m to infinity is in acceptable focus.


D3S_3620-controls.jpg
 
I would find using Hyperfocal on a 12mm lens extremely difficult but from a 20mm (35mm equiv) useful. You also need to consider which end of the apparent focus you wish to use. Often I want the background out of focus as I can crop the foregroud so use the latter figures to set the lens. On modern lenses it is more difficult & especially with zooms as they do not have the markings as shown on older manual lens so you have to err on the side of caution or take 2 shots each set slightly different.

Hope this is useful in-conjunction with Robs bit above
 
david1701 said:
get it close enough, hyperfocal is bodge maths anyway based on 'acceptable sharpness'
Click to expand...

:plusone:

Just focus on something that is approx the right distance away.

For 1.4m you may be able to focus on your feet, lock focus, and recompose, it depends on how tall you are :D
 
If you know the distance you need to focus on, measure it out and focus on an object at the measured distance. A tailor's measure is smaller than a roll of film and is easily stashed somewhere in the kitbag.
 
Ok in all of my reading on this subject the most important thing I have discovered which does not seem to CLEARLY stated anywhere is the following. Since people don't seem to mention it perhaps i am getting this wrong.. so please tell me if i am..

Basically it seems to me that for infinite depth of field you must focus at the hyperfocal distance OR further. The further out from the hyperfocal distance you go the further out from the camera the in focus part of the picture will start but in all cases focus will go out to infinity. Why would you focus further out? Because there is something in the foreground that you want to have in the picture - this is where peoples eye will go first and therefore it is a priority to make this object as sharp as possible.

If you focus at any point CLOSER than the hyperfocal distance you will not get focus to infinity. So you should be careful to not come closer than hyperfocal distance for landscapes.

Is that correct?

Dub
p.s. I will start carrying a tape measure i think!
p.p.s i found a free hyperfocal distance calculator for my nokia n95 :)
 
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