I want to create amazing Landscapes, what do I need? Quick test added- post 78

EdinburghGary said:
You can blow blacks and whites. Blown is blown I think...

Gary.
Click to expand...

Trying to retrieve crushed blacks is much easier to than blown highlights but it is still infinitely better to get it right in camera.

Increasing the exposure +1 stop is all very well as long as you still don't blow any highlights, which in the majority of cases would happen, and this is the worst sin in landscape photography. Its worth losing some range to avoid this which is why most people say to underexpose
 
Aaah I see. Ok, that makes sense now I've read back through the posts properly (still within the hystogram, just making sure that the top 1/5 has something in it. Not off the top of the hystogram though)

Edit:
I think the best advice is to watch the hystogram and adjust exposure as necessary over or under
 
I have just bought a Cokin P NDG kit, of holder and 3 NDG filters for £46.99 from Staffordshire photographic - Ebay shop. I know that Cokin P filters are narower than Lee filters, maybe the quality isn't quite as good either but thats the law of deminishing returns versus rising costs coming in.

Being as the D60 has a crop factor of 1.5 and I can zoom out to 12mm before the filter holder becomes visible at the side of the frame. This would be the same as 18mm on a D700 which has a crop factor of 1.0, being full frame. Obviously anything wider than 18mm on a full frame, would need a wider filter. But otherwise the P series look like good value at 1/3 the price of the Lee kit


rdh said:
More information here. Read this fully!
Click to expand...
Now the histogram all makes sence... Thanks for the link
 
Anyone know where I can get one of those 10 stop filters from? Ive tried looking but cant find any in stock, they seem quite rare. Also are there different versions like screw in directly to the lens or mount? I want to get this filter first because I think I wil have lots of fun with it but will definately get a polarizer and grads very soon. Thanks for allthe info posted in this thread everyone!
 
lukewoodford said:
Anyone know where I can get one of those 10 stop filters from? Ive tried looking but cant find any in stock, they seem quite rare. Also are there different versions like screw in directly to the lens or mount? I want to get this filter first because I think I wil have lots of fun with it but will definately get a polarizer and grads very soon. Thanks for allthe info posted in this thread everyone!
Click to expand...

I got it from Jessops, £70 to £80. Never in stock, special order only. Took 3 months for me to get it, after ordering.

Gary.
 
lukewoodford said:
Im trying to get the B&W one because ive heard goiod things, ill have a hunt.
Click to expand...

I opted for a slot in so that I am not restricted on just being able to fit it to one lens and so that I can use it in conjunction with a GND to even out the exposure in the first place. A long exposure is great, but if you're faced with a seascape with bright sky and dark rocks, the problem of which part of the scene to correctly expose will still exist. Unless you still bracket and blend in pp.

A slot in is also half the price. :)
 
Jayst84 said:
Can you not attach the filter holder for your grads to the front of a screw in full ND?
Click to expand...

Surely you'd still need one different 3.0 ND for each lens though if they were a different diameter?

I don't know... just seemed a logical way of doing it to me. Less equipemnt to have to buy/carry around :)
 
That's what I can do with mine. I just got a 10ND. Time to play!

And you did ask what you need to be good at landscapes? Read any of David Nottons articles. The sheer madness to get up at stupid o'clock day after day and trek up a mountain in the hope that just one morning will have clouds just right............after travelling half way round the world to get there.

I'm convinced they are all barking!
 
Does using a filter holder on the 10 stops not risk "light bleed", which is less of an issue on the shorter exposures...whch don't exist at 10 stops...? 10 minute exposure for example, without an "airtight" fitting, will light not get in over and under?

I may be wrong, definitely read about the issue somwhere though. I read one of the main advantages of the screw in.

Gary.
 
Well, if I do get bleed I shall bleeding sending it back as not fit for purpose. Mind you, with the Lee holder and wide angle adapter one of the filters sits really quite close and I think (without checking) that I could fiddle with the shims to remove any gap.

Sorry if this is off-topic LW. It seems fairly relevant though :)
 
lukewoodford said:
Its all relevant. Im just going to get screw in. Im going to be using this on my 50mm full frame and on the 24-70 eventually and they are both 77mm so its all good.
Click to expand...

My 50mm is a completely different size to my 24 to 70, almost sure of it. Both Nikon. F1.4 and f2.8

Gary.
 
Ive just been for a little play down the beach by my apartment. Forgot tripod though. I did find it best to spot meter for the nice red sky but ill probably wack the camera on a tripod and auto bracket 5 exposures a pick which one I like best for the time being.
 
jerry12953 said:
I'd agree with this. It's quite important to keep your highlights.:)
Click to expand...

I find a balance in between really. When I am photographing something I try to push the sky/highlights as much as possible so that I can retain as much detail in the shadows. This may take 2 or 3 frames to find out how much I can push it. I find it particularly hard in post production to pull back the details in shadows without it looking unrealistic for some reason.

Thinking that actually, they should have shadow control on the back of the lcd camera like they do with highlights when they are blown, would be helpful, I know they histogram is there but still..
 
Another question which I cant find the answer to on the net :)
When using a graduated filter I know you meter the ground then the highlights to see what filter to use but then what do you expose for? The shadows or the highlights?
I miss my compact flash.
 
lukewoodford said:
Another question which I cant find the answer to on the net :)
When using a graduated filter I know you meter the ground then the highlights to see what filter to use but then what do you expose for? The shadows or the highlights?
I miss my compact flash.
Click to expand...

Personally I meter for the main subject then adjust the grad filter for the sky and adjust the shutter speed for the shadows. A combination of adjusting a lot:LOL:
 
devitt said:
Personally I meter for the main subject then adjust the grad filter for the sky and adjust the shutter speed for the shadows. A combination of adjusting a lot:LOL:
Click to expand...

Damn this stuff is complicated, I suppose this is when a college course would have piad off, but then again it would have probably taken 6 months to get onto this subject.
 
lukewoodford said:
Damn this stuff is complicated, I suppose this is when a college course would have piad off, but then again it would have probably taken 6 months to get onto this subject.
Click to expand...

All that is required is determination I bet! :)
 
Yes determination it is mate!

Quick test pick added- popped out and as I said forgot tripod, luckily its only 2 mins away. Bare in mind camera is balanced on a rock. Im going to go out tomorrow morning and get a shot looking out to sea with that thing thats sticking up central in the image with silky water each side.

silkywatertest002.jpg
 
really like the water effect

has the pic been PP?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top