Installing your own oven ?

Just stick a plug on it lol
 
gramps said:
No! What you need is the knowledge required to do the job.
There are many things that can go wrong and do go wrong ... unless you know what you are doing and have the necessary tools and testing equipment get an experienced person in to do it.
There is a vast difference in changing a plug and wiring an oven, even though the principle is the same.
Electricity can and does, kill!
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I would like to know the difference please, especially the vastness part!
 
To to scare monger you all a little further.

Anyone know what size fuze is in your bog standard table lamp phone answering machine, battery chargers etc??? No, well my guess would be what the manufactures put in there a 13amp fuse,if anything went tits up the cable would melt and cause a fire before the fuse blew, max you need is 3 amp for said items.

As for all other elecs, you either know what your doing or you do not, if you are unsure seek help, I am fortunate I work in the building trade so have access to many good tradesmen, some I trust some I would not touch with a barge pole.
 
Question posted on an electrical forum some time ago ...

Helloe people,

OK just a quick question,

I am about to install a new electric oven, I have purchased the heat resistant cable and attatched it to the back of the oven. However I have now hit a stumbling block, the spur in the wall has three wires, obviously the green and yellow is earth, what I can't figure out is which is the live and which is the neutral ?????

Black = Live
Red = Neutral

Red = Live
Black = Neutral

Help ?
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Part P approval to wire in a new cooker is not required unless a new circuit is also being installed. :)
The reason that torx screws are used more & more is that they are easier for robots to fit and easier to tighten to the correct torque. You can buy screwdrivers to fit them quite easily.
Except in a Kitchen, Bathroom and other specified areas it is OK to install an extra socket or light point as long as it is part of an existing installation, you can also replace items like for like.
The reason that some areas such as Kitchens are no-go areas for even small additions to existing wiring is that they have extra requirements, such as equipotential earth bonding.
Having said that I have seen instances where bell wire had been used to connect an extra socket, an outside light had been earthed by wrapping the earth cable around a screw in the wall, Live and Neutral swapped in a supply to a garage, an old cooker supply cut off and plastered over while it was still live as well as many instances of frayed cables, incorrect fuses etc etc.
When Part 3 came in it was stated that 30% of all electrical accidents were down to incorrect installation so in my view it does make sense - even though, although I am competent, I am not registered myself and would have to pay someone else to carry out an installation or pay for it to be checked should I need work covered by Part 3
 
SpikeK6 said:
To to scare monger you all a little further.

Anyone know what size fuze is in your bog standard table lamp phone answering machine, battery chargers etc??? No, well my guess would be what the manufactures put in there a 13amp fuse,if anything went tits up the cable would melt and cause a fire before the fuse blew, max you need is 3 amp for said items.

As for all other elecs, you either know what your doing or you do not, if you are unsure seek help, I am fortunate I work in the building trade so have access to many good tradesmen, some I trust some I would not touch with a barge pole.
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All my small appliances have a 3amp fuse :shrug:
 
It's a simple enough job if you know what you are doing, if you're in any doubt whatsoever get someone to do it for you. It isn't worth the risk.

Thought the thread title and your username were rather apt ! :)
 
SpikeK6 said:
To to scare monger you all a little further.

Anyone know what size fuze is in your bog standard table lamp phone answering machine, battery chargers etc??? No, well my guess would be what the manufactures put in there a 13amp fuse,if anything went tits up the cable would melt and cause a fire before the fuse blew, max you need is 3 amp for said items.

As for all other elecs, you either know what your doing or you do not, if you are unsure seek help, I am fortunate I work in the building trade so have access to many good tradesmen, some I trust some I would not touch with a barge pole.
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Correct, if a fault condition were present you could be long dead before the fuse blew
 
TCR4x4 said:
I installed my gas oven. Literally 1 push fit connector hose and a mains plug.

We had an issue with a few months later and a tech came round to replace the thermostat under warranty and went ape over the fact I said I installed it when he asked.

I was told that they would do no further work on the oven until a trained gas tech came and reinstalled it.

I asked how much that would cost....

I could buy a new oven for less.

Complete rip off and needless red tape.
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Did you check for ventilation? how much adventitious air did you allow?
Is there a gas boiler in the same room?

If you are swapping like for like there will probably be no problem but if you are upsizing then, as with most jobs, you need to know what you are doing.
A local Gase Safe registered installer is normally a lot cheaper.
 
TCR4x4 said:
I installed my gas oven. Literally 1 push fit connector hose and a mains plug.

We had an issue with a few months later and a tech came round to replace the thermostat under warranty and went ape over the fact I said I installed it when he asked.

I was told that they would do no further work on the oven until a trained gas tech came and reinstalled it.

I asked how much that would cost....

I could buy a new oven for less.

Complete rip off and needless red tape.
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Sorry but what a load of rubbish...It's not as you say, what about the safety chain? Stability bracket? Opening window?...gas operating pressure? Did the over thermostat work? Flame failure device, I'm sure you checked that aswell! And just out of interest how did you connect the hose to the cooker?
Weather you like it or not you have to have a licence to work on gas, would you drive a car without a licence, yes some will but then it invalidates the insurance as it would your house insurance. Put your life at risk but all means but don't risk others.
Try and speak to a gas safe installer and ask to read his gas safe mag, people don't get to hear what happens, it's an interesting read.
As for price, if you're not happy shop around...pay your peanuts and get your monkeys :)
 
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Martyn D said:
Sorry but what a load of rubbish...It's not as you say, what about the safety chain? Stability bracket? Opening window?...gas operating pressure? Did the over thermostat work? Flame failure device, I'm sure you checked that aswell! And just out of interest how did you connect the hose to the cooker?
Weather you like it or not you have to have a licence to work on gas, would you drive a car without a licence, yes some will but then it invalidates the insurance as it would your house insurance. Put your life at risk but all means but don't risk others.
Try and speak to a gas safe installer and ask to read his gas safe mag, people don't get to hear what happens, it's an interesting read.
As for price, if you're not happy shop around...pay your peanuts and get your monkeys :)
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+1 for that, took me years to gain my gas safe registration and some people really don't appreciate/understand the present danger from an incorrectly installed gas appliance.
 
dekeyboy said:
All you need in this instance is common sense. :bonk:
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True.

But if I could just draw your attention to a thread elsewhere in the forum this afternoon about someone who used a BBQ indoors to dry clothes, and nearly killed themselves and the rest of their family from carbon monoxide poisoning.

These days common sense isn't a given. It's starting to become an exception to the rule. Hence why all this "pointless" red tape is in place. To protect idiots from themselves.

If you are not an idiot, and have the common sense and competent to complete the task at hand, what bother is it to make sure you double check the facts, work safely and do it within the law and legislation there to protect you and everyone else.

Don't see what the big hoohah is really.
 
Please start your own gas thread............
 
I'm amazed this thread does not yet contain the modern day "go to" phrase....Google / YouTube are your friends :lol: (nonesense btw!)
 
Did a big supermarket shop today and I stumbled accross a ratchet screwdriver with interchangable head bits including Torx heads - T20 fits.
 
if your struggling to get hold of torq bit / star bits, you can just as easily use allen keys to loosen screws.... i've fitted a fair few electric cookers (refitting them everytime we move) and its relatively simple and to an accessible switch plate reachable even if the cooker were to be on fire so you can cut the electrics...

i wouldnt consider touching a gas one, as i recall hearing that nowadays you have to be corgi registered etc to be able fit them etc- thats the main reason we stay electric.... just make sure the colours match and your be fine (prob the same colours as the previous cooker???)
 
mark richards said:
I'm not surprised he went mad... a push fit is not meant for gas...FULL STOP!!
only water...these should be soldered or compression fittings...;) mark
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I think he means a baton type hose from cooker to mains.
 
Whatever its called, it wasn't hard and didnt need a college course to learn how to do!

Oh and for all high and mighties. My FIL is a electrician and checked it all over.
My BIL has a masters in engineering and also completed a gas plumbing or whatever you call it course and gave it the once over after they both finished installing my new kitchen..

Yes, that's right two normal people fitted my kitchen, electrics and all.

Set up the gallows... :rules:

:bonk:
 
TCR4x4 said:
I installed my gas oven. Literally 1 push fit connector hose and a mains plug.

We had an issue with a few months later and a tech came round to replace the thermostat under warranty and went ape over the fact I said I installed it when he asked.

I was told that they would do no further work on the oven until a trained gas tech came and reinstalled it.

I asked how much that would cost....

I could buy a new oven for less.



Complete rip off and needless red tape.
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Your mad....., i would always use a gas safe engineer to install anythng involving gas. Unless you want to go to jail if it goes tits up....

As for an electric cooker, they usually have a plug on, anyway no issue in a competent person fitting it.

I have just bought a house and intend on renting, no electrical certificate or red tape, but I MUST have a gas certificate.
 
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onomatopoeia said:
You should check that the existing cable in the kitchen is suitable for the current draw of the cooker you are installing.

I wouldn't disuade you from performing the installation though. I assume you'll be on the phone to Local Authority Building Control to notify them, since it's classed as "notifiable work" under Part P, of course. :naughty:
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Why? He's installing it to an existing circuiting he ?
 
sorry have not read the previous 68 posts...

The idea is that the "odd shaped" screwhead" is so Mr Jonny F'wit (think lowest IQ) cannot go and plug it up himself, and giving the ampage for that circuit turn himself to toast (which in reality would strengthen the gene pool according to Darwin.

In reality, and I am no sparky, it is a piece of pee to do.. I did our oven a few years back and have not electrocuted myself during or since... all you need to do is make sure you do a clean neat and tidy job and get the 3 cables on the right parts..... if you are not confident or able in doing that, then seek a professional.
 
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