IR filter on a non converted camera
- Thread starter Ben johns
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I had a go with a Hoya R72 filter on a Canon EOS M mirrorless camera (original mark 1 version).
The exposure times were long, and focussing was impossible with the filter fitted, so I put the camera on a tripod, focussed manually, then attached the filter.
It was good fun, and produced some photos I was pretty happy with. Reminds me, I must have another go at it!
You've got to do a fair bit of work in Photoshop swapping channels, but it is possible to get some ok images:
Garden2 by conradsphotos, on Flickr
Westminster2 by conradsphotos, on Flickr
A few more here
The exposure times were long, and focussing was impossible with the filter fitted, so I put the camera on a tripod, focussed manually, then attached the filter.
It was good fun, and produced some photos I was pretty happy with. Reminds me, I must have another go at it!
You've got to do a fair bit of work in Photoshop swapping channels, but it is possible to get some ok images:
A few more here
I'd purchase a cheap converted compact than waste money on a filter
https://www.infraredcameraconversions.co.uk/shop/4593495984
https://www.infraredcameraconversions.co.uk/shop/4593495984
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I recently got myself a Hoyo r72 and use it on an unmodified Nikon D750.
I find that auto focus rarely works unless the camera happens to be pointing at a particularly high contrast edge and exposure is best done manually as the camera tends to over expose.
There is more work to do afterwards (I use Lightroom 5, Photoshop elements with the elements+ plugin and Nik Silver efex) but once I got myself into a workflow it's not too bad and, although it's early days for me, I quite like the results so far.
Give it a go
Thursley Nature Reserve by Lee Francis, on Flickr
Looking North at Farthing Downs. by Lee Francis, on Flickr
I find that auto focus rarely works unless the camera happens to be pointing at a particularly high contrast edge and exposure is best done manually as the camera tends to over expose.
There is more work to do afterwards (I use Lightroom 5, Photoshop elements with the elements+ plugin and Nik Silver efex) but once I got myself into a workflow it's not too bad and, although it's early days for me, I quite like the results so far.
Give it a go
Thursley Nature Reserve by Lee Francis, on Flickr
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Also, some lenses are better than others. Uncoated (i.e. cheap) lenses are actually better for IR work.
https://kolarivision.com/articles/lens-hotspot-list/
https://kolarivision.com/articles/lens-hotspot-list/
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Some years ago I bought an IR filter and tried it on my DSLR. I was very disappointed for a number of reasons. Exposures times on a sunny day were typically 30 seconds so clouds and foliage is blurred. Focussing and setting the exposure value is difficult. However, I was convinced that I wanted to pursue IR so had my older DSLR converted. While they remove the IR blocking filter, then then add a suitable IR filter and I chose the 720 nM filter which would allow me to process B&W or colour. While B&W IR images remain popular, the IR false colour images are rarely appreciated. I you want to know more see my website and look at techniques.
Dave
Dave
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The Zomei ones (Amazon) are pretty good.
If you're going down the conversion route, you can get a shorter wavelength conversion then add longer wavelength filters to get different effects. My X-T1 is a 590nm conversion then I have a 720nm filter and a 950nm too, so I can do colour & mono infrared work. You can't go the other way though (get a 720nm conversion then add a 590nm filter) which is why I went for a 590 conversion as that gave me the most flexibility.
Once you have a conversion done, the forced long exposures stop being a thing, and even adding a longer wavelength filter doesn't affect the shutter speed (much). This has the downside of removing the ability to do milky water/blurred clouds as most* ND filters only block visible light
Also, a good thread here with much information: https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/ok-then-lets-see-your-infrared-images-please.493937/
Edit to add *some ND filters also block IR light as per @Canon Bob correction of my post below
If you're going down the conversion route, you can get a shorter wavelength conversion then add longer wavelength filters to get different effects. My X-T1 is a 590nm conversion then I have a 720nm filter and a 950nm too, so I can do colour & mono infrared work. You can't go the other way though (get a 720nm conversion then add a 590nm filter) which is why I went for a 590 conversion as that gave me the most flexibility.
Once you have a conversion done, the forced long exposures stop being a thing, and even adding a longer wavelength filter doesn't affect the shutter speed (much). This has the downside of removing the ability to do milky water/blurred clouds as most* ND filters only block visible light
Also, a good thread here with much information: https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/ok-then-lets-see-your-infrared-images-please.493937/
Edit to add *some ND filters also block IR light as per @Canon Bob correction of my post below
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Think @nandbytes has experience with these if I’m correct
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I've got a Panasonic G3 M43 camera converted to full spectrum.
I find this is the best way to go as (with the correct filter on the lens) I can take images without a long exposure at any wavelength. Including ultraviolet (not tried that yet tbh).
I also use Zomei filters and can highly recommend them.
Trevose Head by Terence Rees, on Flickr
This was with a 720nm filter and was 1/160th at f11
I find this is the best way to go as (with the correct filter on the lens) I can take images without a long exposure at any wavelength. Including ultraviolet (not tried that yet tbh).
I also use Zomei filters and can highly recommend them.
This was with a 720nm filter and was 1/160th at f11
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The point made on the conversion site was that the modification involved removing the UV and IR blocking filter from the sensor, and as UV (IF it gets throught the lens - different glasses and different cements even on the same lens can inhibit UV transmission) and IR come to a focus in a different plane to visible light, there would be unsharpness for this reason. Clearly, this won't apply to unmodified cameras. The only focus problem with these would be the IR/visible light focus shift.
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I first got into IR by adding a 720nm filter to my K100d which like the D70 has a weak hot mirror.
Hand held IR shots were just about possible with this camera but modern cameras will need longer exposures despite being able to go much higher in ISO. More recently I've used the same filter on a Panasonic G5 and needed ~20s exposures.
Yes a filter is still needed for just IR, though you can shoot visual & IR combined without a filter. Many conversions have the filter incorporated making a dedicated IR camera. All my converted cameras have been full spectrum mirrorless models giving the most flexibility. Even being able to pan motorsports with an IR filter fitted.
Adding a simple IR filter to a standard camera will need long exposures but should be a great introduction to IR.
Hand held IR shots were just about possible with this camera but modern cameras will need longer exposures despite being able to go much higher in ISO. More recently I've used the same filter on a Panasonic G5 and needed ~20s exposures.
Yes a filter is still needed for just IR, though you can shoot visual & IR combined without a filter. Many conversions have the filter incorporated making a dedicated IR camera. All my converted cameras have been full spectrum mirrorless models giving the most flexibility. Even being able to pan motorsports with an IR filter fitted.
Adding a simple IR filter to a standard camera will need long exposures but should be a great introduction to IR.
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